Butyl tape or sealant for windows?

Keith-i

Keith-i

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I'm just about to install new side windows to my wheelhouse and have a choice of butyl tape or sealant to use. Does anyone have any experience of using either product with clamp-in windows? The tape seems a bit more 'solid' than the tube of Arbomast BR and I feel might not ooze out as much. Any thoughts please?
 
I have used both Arbomast and the tape to bed my framed windows into the topsides. Tape has proved easier to use, more durable and more waterproof.

However, I have continued to use sealant to hold and seal the window glass inside its alloy frame - simply because there isn't enough clearance for the tape.
 
I had all my windows refurbished and they were returned with a foam type tape. The windows were then clamped back in place on both flat and slightly curved surfaces (longitudinal and transverse). The tape has being working very well now for 5 years, UK environment, not a leak.

http://hadlowmarine.com/Pages/seals-bedding.html Scapa 3507 bedding tape, 3 mm thick. The curves were very slight and I clamped until the foam extruded in a slight radius, more force at the curves, obviously, was required.
 
kalanka said:
.

However, I have continued to use sealant to hold and seal the window glass inside its alloy frame - simply because there isn't enough clearance for the tape.
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+1

Hadlow Marine did the same. My windows were originally clamped in the frame by an O ring forcing the glass against a flat double sided sticky tape, very thin. Hadlow, filled the frame with an appropriate adhesive sealant which secured the glass more centrally in the void within the frame. This, in my opinion, is far superior to the original construction, especially where the frame has to be strained to fit a curve.
 
The only downside with Butyl which may be seen around the edges of frame, is it don't half hold the blinkin dirt
 
Baggy said:
The only downside with Butyl which may be seen around the edges of frame, is it don't half hold the blinkin dirt
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True, but there is foam tape and butyl tape. The foam tape is the one to use.

I have been using butyl tape on some fittings and I left a bead extruded around the edge and it has picked up dirts as you say. There is probably a better way to use butyl tape, thinner, so it does not show at the edges.
 
Thanks for the comments. I'm tempted to use the butyl tape as it will be easier to apply and the greater thickness and firmness will accommodate the slight unevenness and curvature of the wall better. However the reference to it picking up dirt is one I hadn't considered. The advantage of the Arbomast butyl sealant is that it will compress more readily and create a thinner joint. It's 50-50 at the moment as to which way I'll go. What I really don't want to do is choose the wrong one and have to try and scrape/clean it all off. I've discounted the foam tape as I am now a butyl convert for other fittings.
 
Keith-i said:
What I really don't want to do is choose the wrong one and have to try and scrape/clean it all off. I've discounted the foam tape as I am now a butyl convert for other fittings.
Click to expand...

I've used butyl tape a lot, for glazing, deck fittings and other purposes. I've found it quite easy to remove.
It does, as mentioned, pick up muck, which is quite obvious on the pale grey stuff I've used. On windows it might be better to use black if available?
 
Keith-i said:
Thanks for the comments. I'm tempted to use the butyl tape as it will be easier to apply and the greater thickness and firmness will accommodate the slight unevenness and curvature of the wall better. However the reference to it picking up dirt is one I hadn't considered. The advantage of the Arbomast butyl sealant is that it will compress more readily and create a thinner joint. It's 50-50 at the moment as to which way I'll go. What I really don't want to do is choose the wrong one and have to try and scrape/clean it all off. I've discounted the foam tape as I am now a butyl convert for other fittings.
Click to expand...

http://www.scapa.com/en/products/3507
https://www.selfadhesive.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/3507.pdf

Use the Scapa product referenced in my post. Attached is the product sheet, 2nd link, no butyl issues and excellent sealing ability. From the second link:-

Clean to use / clean edge finish
Pre‐determined dimensional sealant reduces waste
No known hazards associated with this product
Suitable for indoor and outdoor environments
Resistance to abrasion, corrosion and moisture
Very good Ultra violet {UV} Light resistant
Paper release liner on the non‐adhesive face, reducing dimensional change during application Good resistance to dilute acids & alkalis
Coated on one side with a high quality pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive
Shelf life of 1 year from date of dispatch
Application temperature: +10oC to + 40oC
Service temperature: ‐30oC to +70oC
Minimum 30% compression required to effect a water seal
 
had hadlow marine make me new windows for my jeanneau sundream. he just made them i fitted them. they have one sided adhesive foam tape stuck onto the GRP. then bolted through the boat with the original aluminium frames on the inside, we stuck arbosol in each hole before putting the bolts in and used Geocel Marine silicone sealant for a beed around the windows. front window is curved 12mm, sides are 6mm. Have yet to test them int he elements but the pressure washer hasnt got past them. all sealant when applied comes off easily before its fully cured with baby wipes. I used paint brush cleaner to get the old selant off.
 
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