Burred nut ..... Arghhh!

Chris_B4

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Tried to remove both of my seawater pumps yesterday to inspect the impellors and get them out of the way for another job

All but one of the nuts holding them on undid fine then ....... ARGHHHH !

...... many frustrating minutes later I gave up

Any of you engineering types out there got a top tip for removing the last nut

Unfortunately the access is terrible, I can't even get a 12mm socket on the thing and was using a ring spanner which now just goes round on it

Thanks for any help

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DepSol

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Always use T9 before attempting to undo any nuts or bolts that may be difficult, leave it for 2 mins while you find something else to squirt at then go back to it.

I have seen a tool for rounded nuts but cant remember where...wonder if that was QVC????

Sorry cant help you much now but you might remember for next time.

<hr width=100% size=1>Dom

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Happy1

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I bought two tools at the LBS for exactly that thing, they are like wrenches but adjust to any size within their limits, I have large and small, if I can post them to you to borrow let me know, also the size of the nut. I wonder if I will get in trouble for answring this now. By the way I AM NOT an experinced sailer like some on this forum, nor am I a qualified mechanic or nut remover, but I am helpful /forums/images/icons/wink.gif Could post it tomorrow for you.

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tr7v8

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Find someone with or buy a set of flank drive sockets. I brought mine to go with the compressor but have saved my life rebuilding the Volvos on the Draco, as everything was rounded and or seized.
Item 13872 on <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.screwfix.co.uk>http://www.screwfix.co.uk</A>, these drive on the flats not on the points. You can also buy the spanner equivalent from decent tool merchants.

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pheran

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I've got the sort of things that Happy1 is talking about. Trouble is that they are substantially larger than a normal ring spanner or socket, and if access is already difficult, they may not fit. They look great at boat shows etc where demonstrator has a few bolts screwed into a bench and enough room to swing a cat. Your bolt is clearly well stuck, hence the rounding. As Dom says, try a release agent, and if possible, even a bit of heat

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BarryH

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All of those answers are good, If all that fails. Weld another nut over the old one and use a bigger spanner. Only down side. The impellars WILL need renewing.

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tr7v8

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Yes although not much bigger. But Metrinch do a set of equivalent spanners which could save some pain. Is this the raw water pump thats buggered?

<hr width=100% size=1>Jim

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pheran

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And the seals on the pump drive shaft too!!! First step must be to try and relieve the cause ot the binding first. The nut welding trick certainly deserves a try in some circumstances but one time I tried it , I managed to screw the head off the shaft of the bolt. Took me a month and several expensive screw extractors to get the bugger out. Jeeeeze - this starting to sound like PBO /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

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Chris_B4

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Welding, oh no I'd be much too scared to do that, even applying heat would test my nerves to destruction

Fact is I don't think the nut is that tight, its only 12mm (that's the spanner size, not the thread size) All the others undid relatively easily it's just that this pump has been on and off a few times due to overheating problems and the engineers doing the work never thought "I think we ought to replace these nuts now, they are getting a bit tired" I guess that would have been too much of an effort !

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tr7v8

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Can you reach it with a small cold chisel and an Irish screwdriver? The nuts are 10 a penny, contact <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.namrick.co.uk>http://www.namrick.co.uk</A> they do a good range and next day delivery.

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Chris_B4

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Re: Shouldn\'t that be burred wall nut? n

Oh yes, lets talk about immitation wood on Sealine panels again, I missed out the last time this was thrashed about





No, really, lets not ! I need a solution to my problem nuts (I'll set um up, you whack em as far as you can)

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BarryH

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Hows the pump mounted to the engine, what engine is it. Mines mounted on a shroud that can be removed with the pump still in situ on the front. Is it poss to do that on your engines. If you could get the thing out that way, you'll have more options open to you.

Only other thing I can think of without seeing it is a small pair of stiltsons. They always seem to extract sheared studs for me. Or a bit of dexterous use of a file and a smaller open end spanner..............can you tell I'm running out of ideas!!

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BarryH

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Arrgghhh! Don't swear at me, worse bloody things invented. Not pliers and not a vice. Only thing I use them for is holding things while welding.....hate'em

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Chris_B4

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Pump is fixed directly to timing cover so this nut the only route

I think the Stilsons seem a good idea or something similar cos they grip tighter as you apply more leverage

Now you mention it my Dad has a small spring loaded wrench with fairly sharp teeth that has been successfully used to extract studs, that may be the answer

Whatever, it looks like I'm off to the tool shop to see what they have, thanks for the help all


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longjohnsilver

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Can you get a file to it to make a few flat edges so you can maybe get a smaller spanner to grip.

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DepSol

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Also if you can whack it squarely with a hammer this also can help release the nut and also tighten it slightly then undo it. Sounds daft but they work.

<hr width=100% size=1>Dom

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andyball

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If a ring spanner goes on...usually a "snap-on" socket will too : use a 6-point one, not 12. (presumably some other makes are suitably thin-walled).



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