Burgee lines

John 32i

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Just bought some cord for new burgee lines...is it recommended to put a plastic hook on one end and just tie a loop on the other?
 
I use Inglefield clips. With one set on the burgee halyard and the other top and bottom of the burgee. Fitting and removing is quick and secure.
 
I use a pigstick and fly the burgee at the top of the mast; it's very good at keeping the birds from sitting on the windex. (pedant mode off!)

Inglefield clips for courtesy flags.
 
I use Inglefield clips. With one set on the burgee halyard and the other top and bottom of the burgee. Fitting and removing is quick and secure.

I use Inglefield clips as well, because I inherited a large bag of flags which all used them. However, for most purposes the older loop and toggle arrangement works just as well - the benefit of the clips was speed in assembling and disassembling flag hoists for naval signalling, which is hardly applicable. Most flags you buy come fitted for loop and toggle, so it probably makes sense to stick with that.

Pete
 
That reminds me that I keep meaning to make a pigstick. It has the advantage of getting the burgee into free air above the mast and its masthead clutter. I started thinking about spacing from the tricolour light to meet the regs, then realised that once the lights are on a burgee is of little use...D'oh! I believe most use a continuous halyard and cast clove hitches onto the pigstick around mid-height and at the bottom. Just a supplementary question rather than thread drift - does it help to incorporate some form of grip on the pig stick to keep the hitches in position?

Rob.
 
That reminds me that I keep meaning to make a pigstick. It has the advantage of getting the burgee into free air above the mast and its masthead clutter. I started thinking about spacing from the tricolour light to meet the regs, then realised that once the lights are on a burgee is of little use...D'oh! I believe most use a continuous halyard and cast clove hitches onto the pigstick around mid-height and at the bottom. Just a supplementary question rather than thread drift - does it help to incorporate some form of grip on the pig stick to keep the hitches in position?

I think "pig stick" must be American for an ordinary burgee staff (alright, perhaps a longer-than-usual one to clear aerials). On Kindred Spirit we had the VHF aerial at the mizzen masthead, and the traditional burgee arrangement at the main masthead to see the wind direction.

Our burgee staff was a length of sturdy bamboo. The bottom end had a whipping around it, presumably to discourage splitting. The top end had a long screw inserted into it, and the wire swivel had a small eye that fitted around the screw, then a washer between that and the screw head. The screw used to loosen or tighten after a few hours of having the wire swivel around it, so I kept meaning to put a little glue down the screw hole to keep it loose but not too loose. The wire ran from this top eye out about an inch, turned 90 degrees downwards (this being the bit with the flag sewn on - St Piran's Cross in our case :)) then another 90 degrees back inwards and a larger loop around the staff itself.

I attached the burgee halyard with a pair of clove hitches. I didn't find any need for a special cleat or grip, they sat quite happily on the varnished bamboo.

Pete
 
Like most people, we fly the burgee in the plebs' position at the crosstrees. It has to share this position with assorted courtesy ensigns and sometimes connect with other club flags, though not often as I don't much care for multiple flags.

I have therefore settled for a toggle at the top and a loop at the bottom, with a tiny carbine hook on the halyard to connect with the loops. The odd flag has a loop at the top too, but this can be interlocked with the halyard loop.

The only problem I have with this system is that all the flags have different-sized toggles, meaning that my valuable time is wasted adjusting the halyard loops. What we need is a standard Eurotoggle, instead of the EC wasting their time on minor matters.
 
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