Bullet connectors

[alahol2]

Are crimp bullet connectors appropriate on a boat?

I am going to be adding a solar panel to my boat. This will involve some wire to wire connections, eg in-line fuse holder.
I have also seen, in various other parts of the boat, wire connections made via 'chocolate box', twist and solder, crimped butt connectors etc. etc. I would like to correct these as I come across them.
So are crimped bullet connectors appropriate? I haven't been able to find any information on the current carrying capacity, resistance introduced by a bullet connector, has anyone got any figures?

If bullet connectors are OK, is there a convention as to which way round they go? Males always pointing positive to negative? Males always pointing toward the load? Vice versa?

If bullet connectors are deprecated, what is the accepted method for ad-hoc wire to wire connections?

 

[RichardS]

You can buy different current capacity versions so just buy the right ones for your application. I've used a few on my boat, but also choc blocks, spade terminals and fancy blocks I can't remember the name of but it's 4 letters.

I think that the fancy things I can't remember the name of will be most favoured by the forum but that's no so helpful.

Richard

Yep .... that's them, Wago. I like the ones I've used which were recommended by the forum but they are 12 connector blocks so a replacement for choc blocks rather than bullets.

 

[Slipstream 34]

Wago connectors! Very good. Used them on our solar panels.

 

[jwilson]

Whenever I redo connections that were originally spades or bullets I now use Wago lever connectors. Much more reliable.

 

[BabaYaga]

I have quite a few bullet connectors in my electrical system, one advantage compared to (even isolated) spades is that they leave no metal exposed once mated.
One example of use is on the cable from a solar panel, the terminals go easily through the deck gland, one at a time. Normally I think the females should be on the cable coming from the battery, but for this connection I have one of each, so that the polarity will always be right (the panel usually taken off for winter storage).

 

[lpdsn]

I've DC4 connectors with their wires then connected via heatshrink butt connectors onto tinned wires which are then connected to a terminal block via heatshrink crimped ring terminals. Will probably outlast the solar panel itself in terms of corrosion resistance.

 

[PaulRainbow]

<snip> This will involve some wire to wire connections, eg in-line fuse holder.<snip>

Use an inline blade fuse holder, you'll only need a couple of insulated female spades.

 

[pvb]

Use an inline blade fuse holder, you'll only need a couple of insulated female spades.

Just a thought, is a holder even needed? Will female crimps fit straight on to the blade fuse? Guess it depends on the fuse size/rating.

 

[BabaYaga]

Just a thought, is a holder even needed? Will female crimps fit straight on to the blade fuse? Guess it depends on the fuse size/rating.

Yes, there is a female spade terminal that fits perfectly on a standard ATO blade fuse. However, that size is less common than the neighbouring ones (6,35mm and 4,8mm). But in my experience the 4,8mm can be used if it is opened up just a little.

 

[alahol2]

Thanks all
The 30W panel itself comes with MC4 connectors and extensions so I will use those to the controller.

The inline fuse holder I have is for a blade fuse but it has moulded in wires at each end so will require a joint or two.

I will see if I can get hold of some of the Wago 221 connectors, they do indeed look quite interesting, especially for joining wires of differing diameters. They don't seem to be spec'ed for a marine environment though ie I presume air can freely circulate around the innards. Would a heat shrink bullet not be better?
Glad to see no-one has outright condemned the crimped bullets.

 

[coveman]

Wago connectors are available from Screwfix

 

[pvb]

Wago connectors are available from Screwfix

But only in fairly big quantities. If you just want a few, some eBay sellers offer small quantities (I bought a few the other day).

 

[reeac]

I've been using bullet connectors for some years now to connect mast wiring to boat wiring with a plug in/unplug capability. The big advantage of them is that they are small enough to thread easily though the deck connector. I gutted the original deck connector, Jubilee clipped some cycle inner tube to it to form an inverted U and made a teak veneered junction box down below. The mast wires fit into slots on one side of the box and the boat wires into slots on the other side. One screw holds a pivoted top to the box and hides the connectors. The idea was eto shift the electrical connections from above to below deck thus avoiding corrosion.

 

[alahol2]

Wago connectors are available from Screwfix

They seem only to sell the 222 version, which I assume is what people are talking about. There is a newer, smaller 221 which looks neater.

 

[pvb]

They seem only to sell the 222 version, which I assume is what people are talking about. There is a newer, smaller 221 which looks neater.

The 221 version is smaller, that's what I bought on eBay recently.

 

[PaulRainbow]

They seem only to sell the 222 version, which I assume is what people are talking about. There is a newer, smaller 221 which looks neater.

Ebay (as suggested by pvb), search for wago 221

EDIT : beaten to it by pvb

 

[Hydrozoan]

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?456541-Connectors-for-small-gauge-wire/page2
The Wago 261 series of sprung blocks are very useful for multiple fine wire connections: see my posts on that thread.

 

[William_H]

There are a variety of removable connectors as alternative to "bullet" connectors. These are AMP crimped on types.
So you can have spade male and female. Like bullet these can pull apart with wire pull.
The other types are "handshake" not so common and "knife" connectors. In both types, both connectors are identical but couple in such a way that wire pull pulls them together not apart.
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...oeVuffQAhVBE7wKHfDzCDwQsAQIJw&biw=959&bih=671 I would go for "knife" connectors. These pictures show the knife connector type 2nd from top left. It also shows the "spade" connectors male and female. Spade are good because you can fit a fit easily.
For the knife connector you can fit a piece of plastic tubing ove the wire before joining. Large enough in diameter to slip over the join and about 60 mm long. Tie twine around one end so that the cover can be pulled over the join to insulate but is easily retracted to open the join.
PS A quick look at google seems to show the Knife connector also called "handshake" and the type I knew as hand shake now not made. They were a bit like 2 male spade connectors laid flat to flat with side wrap arounds to hold together. So disregard "hand shake" except as another name for knife connector.
One advantage of using a variety of connectors is that it becomes obvious which connects to which with multiple wires.
olewill