Bukh Oil Pipe

SadlerPete

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Hi
Got a bilge full of oil in our Sadler 26. One possibility is corrosion of the oil feed pipe, anyone changed one in situ? Can it be accessed without removing the flywheel, If it has to come off any advice, it weighs about 60kg!!!
Thanks
Pete W
Alter Ego S26
Holyhead
 
Hi Removing a Bukh flywheel is not difficult. Undo the allen bolts an pull the flywheel onto a piece of wood about the same height as the bottom of the flywheel and lay flat. When refitting clean the threads and apply locktight then torque to about 60lbs. A common cause of a bilge full of oil with Bukhs is a pinhole in one of the rear corners of the sump caused by water condensing out of the oil over winter and rusting through. Hope this is of help.
 
Hi Removing a Bukh flywheel is not difficult. Undo the allen bolts an pull the flywheel onto a piece of wood about the same height as the bottom of the flywheel and lay flat. When refitting clean the threads and apply locktight then torque to about 60lbs. A common cause of a bilge full of oil with Bukhs is a pinhole in one of the rear corners of the sump caused by water condensing out of the oil over winter and rusting through. Hope this is of help.

He means it with the locktight! That flywheel would go some if it came free!
The nice man at Bukh said 'Don't drop it on your toes' and roared. Apparently this idea was very funny.:eek:
 
Hi Removing a Bukh flywheel is not difficult. Undo the allen bolts an pull the flywheel onto a piece of wood about the same height as the bottom of the flywheel and lay flat.

I am sure you are quite correct if there is unrestricted clear space in front of the engine. However on a Sadler 29 (and I'm sure S26 is the same) there is only about
2" clearance in front of the flywheel before a raised moulding about 6" high. It would be impossible to tilt the flywheel, so it would have to be lifted out of the way vertically. My approach would be a wide thick strap around the flywheel with a block/tackle to the boom (or a block across the hatchway). PLEASE NOTE that I haven't tried this YET!
 
I am sure you are quite correct if there is unrestricted clear space in front of the engine. However on a Sadler 29 (and I'm sure S26 is the same) there is only about
2" clearance in front of the flywheel before a raised moulding about 6" high. It would be impossible to tilt the flywheel, so it would have to be lifted out of the way vertically. My approach would be a wide thick strap around the flywheel with a block/tackle to the boom (or a block across the hatchway). PLEASE NOTE that I haven't tried this YET!

i didn't think it was that heavy really, easily lifted by hand. They can need a tap to free them off. Just don't drop it on your foot from any height!
PS if someone has marked TDC on it then make sure you fit it back in the same spot.
 
Thanks for reply's so far, but has anyone tried to replace the pipe without removing the flywheel? Every time I have to take something off the engine the damn thing shears through being solid with 30yrs of rust, and I don't fancy having to drill and tap the end of the crank to remove broken bolts.
 
You can be fairly certain that you will not shear those particular ones, they are high tensile steel. Even though my Bukh was very rusty those bolts were clean and quite oily at the crank side of the flywheel, thanks to weeping from the front oil seal. You would have great difficulty drilling them but I don't think it will be necessary.
 
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