RichardS
N/A
Total disaster looming ..... :ambivalence:
I've only once been anywhere near a diesel engine on runaway and I never want to witness that again.
Richard
Bukh DV20 woes... hard to start, and now....
- Thread starter stevie69p
- Start date
Total disaster looming ..... :ambivalence:
I've only once been anywhere near a diesel engine on runaway and I never want to witness that again.
Richard
stevie69p
Well-Known Member
Total disaster looming ..... :ambivalence:
I've only once been anywhere near a diesel engine on runaway and I never want to witness that again.
Richard
Haha yes point taken, perhaps not my brightest idea to actually try and run it!
I have encountered a couple of runaway diesels in my time (and while everyone around actually ran away, I blocked the air intake...)
Maybe just a gentle swirl round the crankcase using the starter and fuel stop button engaged, and cylinders decompressed?
I'm really just attempting to get all of the gloop out...
RichardS
N/A
As long as all the cylinders are decompressed then the engine won't start ..... however, not all decompressers work on all cylinders so take care.
However, I would still just flush through with cheap fresh oil and run the engine for a few seconds if I felt a flush was necessary as I'd rather leave the bearings etc coated with the proper stuff.
Richard
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Running the engine with cheap oil (if such a thing still exists) would remove more gloop than just filling with oil/diesel, IMO. I don't suppose it would hurt to fill it with oil/diesel now (over fill it), before you take the head off, then drain it and refill with oil after you put it back together, run for 30 mins and change it again. Change the oil and filter again after a few hours running.
As for cheap oil, you'd be best to buy a 20ltr drum of oil.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
stevie69p
Well-Known Member
Thanks Paul for your advice. I have a gallon of 'cheap' oil to hand, so will use that as the initial flush (engine running) and fill with oil diesel mix after that's been drained off and while it's sitting with the head off, then that can be drained before rebuild (depending on what is uncovered with the head off!)
I pulled just a bit over 3 litres of emulsified oil out of it last night, so that would equate to maybe around 0.6 litres of water within the sump. really not keen on the idea of sea water sloshing around in there...
robmcg
Well-Known Member
You could always use a flushing oil. The additives in it will do a better job of dealing with the sludge.
Champagne Murphy
Well-Known Member
A big issue with Pela vacuums is that they only remove 2/3-3/4 0f the oil in the Bukh sump. The only way to remove all the is to use the sump plug At the base of the engine or to fit a pump system to it as its damn near impossible to reach unless youre a midget.
stevie69p
Well-Known Member
Oh that's a bit annoying. If it's fixable, I see multiple oil changes ahead of me...
Champagne Murphy
Well-Known Member
If/when you take the motor out for more work it’s the ideal time to fit one. I’ve got some pictures if you need some.
<152587>
...
What a load of chicken livered woossies. If the engine is not passing enormous loads of oil past the rings or valve stems, how do you imagine the "fuel" is going to migrate to the combustion space from the sump?
RichardS
N/A
There's a huge difference between passing oil past the rings or valve stems and passing a 50% diesel/oil mixture which will have virtually the same viscosity as diesel.
But why not give it a go for yourself? Just remember to have the camera rolling as I love a good laugh.
Richard
<152587>
...
At the age of 15, I was apprenticed to a shipyard in the motor sheds. Subsequently permitted by the relevant authorities to stand as Engineer Officer on any British registered ship. It is doubtful if you have experienced what you have claimed. Never in 55 years I have experienced a runaway. Most stories are sheer fiction.
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
You really do come out with some nonsense at times !!
I've never falling off of a cliff, but i don't disbelieve that it happens.
Try a Google search for : https://www.google.co.uk/search?cli...k1j0i46i67k1j46i67k1j0i131i67k1.0.KjeRa4e0wXg
Here's the first hit, unless of course it's fictional : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4rMfrERpG8
LittleSister
Well-Known Member
My understanding was that Bukhs (at least the twins) were 'notorious' for white steam, rather than smoke.
RichardS
N/A
Of course ..... I just made it up.
Richard
theoldplucker
Well-Known Member
I had water in my DV20 about 4 years ago from leaking water pump. On advice from Norman & Al, drain oil, took off rocker cover cleaned out sludge, filled with 50/50 diesel and oil. After sorting water pump ran engine for hour or so. Being mindful of runaway engine kept a block of wood close by to place over air intake. Never use your hand ! Drained & replaced with oil and ran hard for couple hours. Change oil again. Been running faultlessy ever since and starts first turn of the key. An engineer was concerned because because of blowing when oil filler cap removed - bad sign with with car engines, coupled with rear seal oil leak. I replaced the seal. Advised complete engine strip & rebuild or new engine as hea thought pressure in the crankcase from leaking rings. However discussing with Al at Bukh said blowing from oil filler hole was normal on a Bukh. To confrm rings are ok check tube from vacuum pump is clear which is under rocker cover. Do the the paper test. Remove oil filler cap and with engine running slide a sheet of paper over over the hole. If the paper stays over the hole, not blown off, you have vacuum and all is fine. This test certainly saved me from expense of new engine or rebuild. Perhaps some engineers don't know of this test. After abour 4 seasons now engine doesn't miss a beat. Hope this helps !
rotrax
Well-Known Member
That is certainly what issues from my DV 20 exhaust once she has warmed up.
When it was hard to start, had poor idle and throttle response, it had white SMOKE-even when cranking and trying to start- quite different!
rotrax
Well-Known Member
I only have an owners handbook for my DV 20, thanks to a forum member who had it surplus to requirements-thanks Sugar Kane-not a full workshop manual.
From what you say as long as the vacuum pipe is clear and the seals are good the motor is designed to have a vacuum inside when running. Oil will stay inside as air will tend to be drawn in rather than oil pumped out. I assume-perhaps incorrectly-that manifold vacuum is the scource of the pressure difference.
The pre 1967 BMW twin motorcycles had a timed breather that closed just before the pistons reached BDC. This left a vacuum inside as the pistons travelled to TDC and allowed the engine to be built with no gaskets on the crankase, sump and timing cover joints. They were known for being amongst the most oil tight engines of the period.
When I had my DV 20's engines pistons and rods out last year it was clear that it was a simple, well built engine of its time.
Glad you got your one sorted without drama.
PetiteFleur
Well-Known Member
Total disaster looming ..... :ambivalence:
I've only once been anywhere near a diesel engine on runaway and I never want to witness that again.
Richard
Ditto - Many years ago I was working on a Lister 2 cyl diesel fitted with a hydraulic pump to drive hydraulic cylinders. Unfortunately the pump had been supplied with the wrong rotation so as soon as I operated the controls the pump just pumped hydraulic oil directly into the engine which started to run on oil with huge clouds of smoke and rapidly increasing speed. In desperation I yanked off the air cleaner and slapped my hand over the inlet and fortunately that stopped the engine.