Bukh DV10 starter motor

Supine Being

Supine Being

Well-Known Member
Joined
27 May 2011
Messages
976
Location
Essex
Visit site
Hi all. My starter motor is sometimes failing to engage, especially when I've been off the boat for 2-3 weeks, and I'm assuming that it's down to general crud collecting in that area. I want to take it off to clean and lubricate it but, not being particularly mechanically-minded, I'm not sure of how to get at it. Does anyone know if I need to remove the flywheel first?

Thanks.
 
Hi-

I don't know the Bukh engine, can't comment on the flywheel, but if the starter is conventional 'car type', that is, less than 30 years old it'll have a large cylindrical shape with a smaller cylinder piggy- backed on it, ie pre-engaged type.

Is it
1 whirring but not turning the engine or
2 just clicking or
3 nothing at all?

If 1, it's the one way roller clutch, a sealed item which you may be able to soak in petrol (care!) to get some more life. Needs a recon, really.

2 and 3 more easy to DIY-

Nick
 
The starter motor on most Bukhs is not a pre-engaged type, although I'm not certain for the later ones. It has a Bendix gear, which is almost certainly the cause of your problem. General dust and muck from inside the cover gets onto the Bendix, which operates by inertia driving the gear forward to engage with the ring gear. The clearance between the two parts of the coarse spiral of the gear is quite small and easily blocked by small particles.

Isolate the batteries, remove the electrical cables, undo the two large bolts holding the starter motor to the block and you should be able to withdraw the motor aft. Clean up the Bendix gear with paraffin, dry it off, check that it operates fully, and replace. Worth doing your best to clean up the ring gear and other nearby parts at the same time.
 
The DV 10 has what is known as a pre-engage starter. The solenoid on it closes the electrical circuit when energised and also moves the pinion gear into engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel.
Unlike the intertia, or Bendix type, which was used in days gone by on practically all petrol car engines ( maybe still on some small ones) in which the rotation of the motor caused the caused the pinion to engage with the ring gear.



If yours does not spin properly suspect a bad connection in the electrical supply ( or earthing) or bad contacts in the solenoid. If spinning properly but not engaging then rust or other crud probably preventing the gear moving fully.


Disconnect the battery

Note the connections and then disconnect the wiring to the motor/ solenoid.



Motor will be secured at the flywheel end by two bolts and probably at the other end by a support bracket


Undo all mounting ( while supporting the weight then lift away.

Even if you cannot/do not clean it up and sort it out yourself once you have removed it you can pop it into a local auto-electrician for attention


Workshop manual at http://www.motoren.ath.cx/Download.php?filename=/bukh/DV10_DV20_Workshop_Manual.pdf
 
Yes you are right early engines had a Dynastart, which is mentioned in the manual.

Presuamably they are belt drive ??? so easily recognised and therefore cannot be "failing to engage" which is the OP's problem.

Other than the Dynastart being mentioned in the W/S manual the manuals on line only show pre-engage types.

Failing to engage though is more likely to indicate an inertia type I must admit.
 
vyv_cox said:
My manual shows a drawing of a Bendix type. But it has a relay on the top that looks like a pre- engaged solenoid. My 1985 Bukh definitely had a Bendix.
Click to expand...

The Op will know when he gets it off. If its not like the diagram in the W/s manual its an inertia type.
 
vyv_cox said:
My manual shows a drawing of a Bendix type. But it has a relay on the top that looks like a pre- engaged solenoid. My 1985 Bukh definitely had a Bendix.
Click to expand...

Very strange! ... because my 1984 BUKH 20 most certainly has a pre-engage BOSCH starter. :confused: (I rebuilt mine a few years ago and remember the fiddly bit getting the fork re-engaged with the pinion ).
 
Last edited:
To the OP

Please post a photo of the business end when you get it off !! Then we will be able to tell you what sort it is ......... with luck ;)
 
Mine s/n 205999 has a starter cog that emerges from the motor, engages with the flywheel as the starter spins, and retreats once released. I think thats a bendix.

Mine had rum out of scope on the brushes, so I took it into ajw electicrical here in Poole.
he reurbed it, new rotor ( because there was no more scope to turn it down) and new brushes, all for £90 in 10 days. It spins with more vigour now than it did.

Excellent service
 
You could be describing either type.

Some basic info which may be of interest to the OP at http://www.tb-training.co.uk/MarineE06.html#STARTERS & CIRCUITS.

It sounds as though inertia starters may have been fitted for a while after Dynastarts.
Its always been my understanding that diesel engines are better off with pre-engage starters so so Id expect to see them on later engines.
 
DV24 86 vintage - pre-engaged type starter :D

The only starters I have come across on the Bukhs are the old dynostart or pre-engaged type. I have not come across an inerta/bendix type, that is not to say they don't exist.

I have 3 or 4 workshop manuals for the Bukhs and they show either dynostart or pre-engaged - not inertia/bendix - interesting that there may be inertia type starters fitted to Bukhs....
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. I should have added more detail... I think it's the Bendix type, but I won't be entirely sure until I get it off. The symptom is that it spins with no problems, but it doesn't move out to engage with the flywheel, hence why I think it's dirt and gunge that needs to be cleaned off.

I will send a more detailed pic after I've been up there next (the weekend if she doesn't make me go Xmas shopping!) but here's a general shot of the engine.

84170db85e6e34baedd0222beccaf678.jpg


Looks like I might need to work around the alternator more than the flywheel after looking at it again.
 
I think I'd take the alternator off out of the way, esp if the starter has a support bracket at the far end.

I think its a pr-engage type but its so long since i have even seen let alone worked on an inertia type I'm by no means sure


If it is a pr-engage type then this diagram showing the lubrication points might be of interest.

(Best I think if Bendix gears are only very sparing lubricated ... in cars you dont lubricate them at all because dust from the clutch clogs them up if you do.)

scan0136.jpg
 
Last edited:
In my younger days, the standard first ploy to persuade a reluctant bendix to behave was to hit the starter with a hammer whilst someone else jabbed the starter button or whatever. But cars etc had starting handles then, as well.
With an exposed pinion as shown in the photo, trying to rotate it with the likes of a screwdriver might encourage it to move out. Don't operate the starter meanwhile!!
Best to give it a proper clean though. A tiny bit of oil on the helix might be helpful on an exposed pinion; that is assuming its not pre-engaged type.
 
Gosh, that takes me back to my driving lessons! My instructor used a Vauxhall Viva, but always carried a small hammer under the seat - he used it to start the other school's Ford Escorts when the starters jammed!

Whichever type it is, it will be much more comfortable to bring it home and clean it up there - especially as the metal can be cold enough to freeze your fingers. Unless money is tight, I second the idea of taking it to an automotive specialist - they tend to be one-man shows in a garden shed - to get it fully refurbished while it's off. Look for "auto-electricians" in the yellow pages.

Rob.
 
Was puzzled by the position of the air filter ........ until I realised the engine is obviously 'winterised' and the (removed) filter is obviously just sitting their :D:D

If you do strip the starter, and it is the BOSCH pre-engaged, I have the LUCAS P/N for the brushes if you need it. My local LUCAS place got them in for next day.

Edit: forget the first para...... had the DV20 stuck in my mind. It's a DV10 (embarrassed).
 
Last edited:
VicMallows said:
Was puzzled by the position of the air filter ........ until I realised the engine is obviously 'winterised' and the (removed) filter is obviously just sitting their :D:D

If you do strip the starter, and it is the BOSCH pre-engaged, I have the LUCAS P/N for the brushes if you need it. My local LUCAS place got them in for next day.
Click to expand...

That's where it lives and works on the single cylinder DV10 fitted to the intake on the rear face, it fits on the side on a DV20..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top