Bukh diesel engine course?

[rex_seadog]

We have recently bought a Westerly Fulmar fitted with a Bukh DV20 engine and are now planning to do the RYA diesel engine course. Although we are based in the Midlands we are prepared to travel a reasonable distance if we can find somewhere that offers a one-day course using the Bukh as the sample engine. Have made several phone calls to places in the RYA course supplement that came with PBO but so far without any luck. The boat is currently moored near Gosport so a course somewhere in that area would give us the excuse of combining it with a few days sailing. Any suggestions please?

In general, how useful is this RYA course for someone with reasonable mechanical skills but little diesel engine experience?

 

[cliff]

I cannot comment on the RYA course although I believe it is very general in content but the Bukh is one of the easiest engines to work on and look after. They are quite simple engines and I would suggest if you are reasonably mechanically minded you will have no problems working on your Bukh. There is a manual available from Bukh but it is not as detailed as a Haynes type car manual - it assumes you have some basic knowledge.

As a point of interest what do you suspect is wrong with your engine?

Common problems (in my experience) are waterways partially blocked, tickover set too low, faulty temperature senders, crank shaft oil seals and engine mountings. All of which are easily rectified on a DIY basis.
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"

 

[asj1]

I have same engine, same boat. As previous poster said quite easy to work on. I replaced Cylinder head gasket ( and other gaskets), cleaned out waterways and had injectors serviced, and replaced water hoses easily on a DIY basis. I have the material from a very old course (no longer run) about this engine I could p'copy and send it to you if you pm me your address.
I also paid someone to chamge the fuel line arrangements to put in a pre-filter and fuel cut-off valve accessible from the front of the engine.

Bukh in UK very helpful, they even send yu instructions on how to do some of the jobs.

Regards

Andrew

 

[rex_seadog]

A copy of the course material would be much appreciated Andrew - I will send a pm with my address.
To answer Cliff, I'm not aware that there's anything wrong with the engine. It appears to have been carefully maintained by the previoius owner and we want to keep up the good work. In fact we have his maintenance records for the last 15 years, together with a workshop manual. (He seemed to adjust the tappets rather frequently!)
There's some water leakage (white deposits) at the front of the engine. Haven't really had time to examine exactly where it's coming from but I understand that it's a common problem. The previous owner has left me with a sheet of silicone rubber from which to cut an improved gasket. We've been told to change the anode regularly and keep an eye on the exhaust elbow although this was only renewed last year.
Although I'm fairly competent with petrol engines (at least before all the electronics came along) the only marine diesel experience has been the frequent tickering with those on charter boats. It's amazing how many problems we've encountered over the years on boats that have "just been serviced."

 

[asj1]

Engine Anode - my experince is to change twice a season (assuming out of water in winter).
Exhaust elbow - yes may last 5 years, carry a spare but it doesn't suddenly explaode ours developed a small leask mid season and we ahve acrried on with abotched car repaire type exhaust fix and will cahnge in winter.
White depoist on front of engine where one of the water pipes go in is typpical and nothing to really worry about. To get proper access requires taking the flywheel off - it's heavy but do-able. I lift wife lines it up and steadies it !

Would be interested in knowing which Fulmar you bought in Gosport .

Regards

 

[Poignard]

The sort of maintenance operations demonstrated on RYA courses are easily carried out on a BUKH engine. If you understand what is done on the engine used for training you should not have any problem applying your new knowledge to a BUKH.
In addition to advice you have already been given, I suggest you check annually the two seals on the saltwater cooling pump spindle. If these fail, water travels along the spindle, into the engine via the chaincase and will cause expensive damage if not detected early. There are tell-tale holes around the pump body between the seals. Make sure these are not blocked and, if you see water coming out of there, overhaul the pump.

 

[jerryat]

Just a thought. You can substantially increase the life of your new exhaust elbow by thoroughly degreasing it inside and applying about five coats of epoxy paint before fitting. I used some old International Interprotect left over from another job on mine and it worked beautifully. Mine last Bukh one lasted for almost 8 years this way.

I now have a heavy walled stainless steel one that I had made by a local fabricator, though I shall be obtaining a Bukh one for a spare (before going cruising again) if I can't find an alternative.

There is a thread going on the Westerly Owners Website at the moment re this very subject. One chap has apparently sourced place where the assembly can be made up for £13.00!! Several of us are awaiting the details!!!

 

[Poignard]

Please let us know when you have them. Cheers!

 

[jerryat]

No problem, will do.

 

[tt65]

A slightly bitter tale. A friends Westerly Fulmar engine Bukh 20 hp got wrecked because of water entering crank from the back of the water pump. The holes intended to drain any such water had become blocked. There is no reference to these "witness holes" in the supplied Bukh manual. She now is some £7k poorer but some 4hp richer with a Bukh 24 hp with scrupulously clean witness holes. I wonder if a diesel course would have warned us of this?