Bukh anode location?

A

Airscrew

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Hi all,

Last week did the engine service on a 'new to me' DV24 (-ME I think).
So first time for me.

I wasnt certain where the anode is.
I have a replacement, and the nut is the same as 2 on the engine.
One is at an angle under the thermostat housing.
The other is at the rear of the engine, facing backwards, near the exhaust flange and engine control lever/cable/stops.
It is likely to be the 2nd of these, because it is very difficult to access in my installation !!! (Centaur)

Can anyone please confirm which it is?
And more importantly, any tips (or trips to avoid)?

Hopefully you can see a pic of the second location here: Bolt head is near-centre.
IMAG1025.jpeg
 
If you do an Internet search using "BUKH dv36 handbook" you will be able to download a PDF versions of the Owner's Handbook and Workshop Manual which should show you where the anode is located.

Zinc rod protection
For seawater-cooled engines it is necessary to fit zinc anodes in the cooling water system in
order to protect against corrosion of the engine block.
On the starboard side of the engine under the exhaust manifold there therefore are three
mounting holes for zinc anodes. As standard for seawater cooling zinc anodes have been
screwed into the two back holes as shown on the drawing below. There is no zinc anode in the
third hole as – due to the placing of the starter – there is no easy access to this plug during the
day-to-day running.
Change the zinc anodes as according to requirements which are influenced by the water in
which you are normally sailing. Usually it will be necessary to change the zinc anodes once a
year just before the first spring sail.
 
Last edited:
ring spanner if you have it and the room to swing it at least a short distance
If like mine then the escaping seawater pours all over the electrical connectors further down the engine (a lovely design feature!) and then into the bilge; some prep minimises the mess.
 
Access from the rear (like our Konsort) is not easy. Trying to undo by hand with a spanner lead me to turn the air blue and hurt myself in the process as I've found that nut has a tendency to seize up no matter what you put on the threads....

I use a socket (22mm as said above) set with an articulated socket extension connected to another longer extension that is just enough to get you clear of the gear lever etc. I then connect this to my battery impact driver via a socket/driver converter (it's not a monster impact driver) to undo. Been doing it this way for 10 years without problem and no pulled muscles or bloodied knuckles. When you re-tighten, it's by hand, not the driver.
 
Moonbeam said:
Access from the rear (like our Konsort) is not easy. Trying to undo by hand with a spanner lead me to turn the air blue and hurt myself in the process as I've found that nut has a tendency to seize up no matter what you put on the threads....

I use a socket (22mm as said above) set with an articulated socket extension connected to another longer extension that is just enough to get you clear of the gear lever etc. I then connect this to my battery impact driver via a socket/driver converter (it's not a monster impact driver) to undo. Been doing it this way for 10 years without problem and no pulled muscles or bloodied knuckles. When you re-tighten, it's by hand, not the driver.
Click to expand...
That's interesting. I bought my first impact driver yeasterday and I hadn't thought of using it for that purpose. I have everything except the hex to 1/2" square adaptor, which I must buy.
 
I just noticed the following warning on that link I posted to the driver/socket adaptors which reads

"socket adaptors not suitable for impact drivers or drills with a torque rating higher than 80Nm"

My impact driver is rated at 145Nm and has not trashed my cheap n cheerful adaptors (similar to the screwfix ones I suspect)... so I would not worry too much about the warning.
 
Moonbeam said:
I just noticed the following warning on that link I posted to the driver/socket adaptors which reads

"socket adaptors not suitable for impact drivers or drills with a torque rating higher than 80Nm"

My impact driver is rated at 145Nm and has not trashed my cheap n cheerful adaptors (similar to the screwfix ones I suspect)... so I would not worry too much about the warning.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I was going to mention that. My new impact driver is rated at 200Nm.
 
Airscrew said:
Thanks to all.
Great suggestions.

I intended to use a 22mm socket, and I have a u/v joint.

But, change of plan for tomorrow am.
1st stop will be for an impact driver. ?
Then the anode.
Click to expand...
.

If you are buying an impact driver you might be interested in this deal from B&Q (sponsored by Ryobi)

1638602068428.png

Impact drivers | Impact wrenches | Power tools | B&Q

I have just bought this and chosen as my free gift a cordless drill, which should arrive within the next fortnight
 
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