Building a trolley using lorry/van axles?

Kelpie

Kelpie

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I'm considering changing the way I use my boat's trailer. At the moment it has two almost-new Indespension axles on it and is road-legal. However if I am to use it for launch/recovery I don't really want to ruin these nice axles and was wondering about unbolting them, putting into storage, and replacing with some old axles from a scrappie's.
The trailer is 3.5t all up so the axles would need to be fairly hefty. However it would of course only be going on the shore at very low speeds so no suspension required.
I can't be the first person to have done this... any tips, pitfalls etc?
What sort of vehicle would I need to scavenge the axles from?
Steering or fixed?

TIA
 
I think this will depend on what facilities you have to adapt the axle to the trailer mount. My first thoughts were a rear axle from a Transit - but the differential casing would probably be a nuisance, so maybe you need front axles and lock the steering? I believe the front axle limit on a Transit 350 is around 1850 kgs, so a couple of them would carry the weight OK, but you'll have to check the donor model details.

Rob.
 
Not sure it would make sense. Yard trailers usually have the wheels at the corners set apart with one end steerable via the tow attachmant. Makes it very stable. Also they are somewhat agricultural. Your road trailer has them in the middle. I guess you could just weld up some truck axles to replace your current ones where they are but you may be better off leaving it alone and making a yard trailer or buying second hand.
 
Well it is strange how different boating is in UK to Oz re trailers. I have been dunking my trailer in salt water several times per year for 32 years now. Yes the trailer has deteriorated from rust mainly in the frame but axles have never been a problem. (mostly becuae it is stored outside). Bearings need to be regreased often virtually every dunking but that is quite easy. I can't imagine your yard situation but for my opinion I would just keep dunking the road trailer and keep up the maintenance. Trailer boating is very popular around here and in every case the road trailer is dunked. good luck olewill
 
The trailer has a box-section ladder chassis so I ought to be able to put the axles more widely than they currently are. There is a limit on how far forward the axles can go though, as the chassis begins to narrow to form the A-frame. I understand the greater stability from spacing the axles wider apart, but at the moment they sit directly under the keel, which has to be a good thing?
I'm not worried about steering, my intention is to simply haul the boat up the shore using a tirfor.
If I can find axles which have a box section then I think I should be able to bolt them straight on to the chassis.
Is there anything I should be considering re tyres?
 
If the axles are moved further apart and one pair do not steer then you either won't be able to turn corners or the tyres could rip off the rim. I grimace when manouevring my trailer in boatyards watching the tyres distort. I guess if all you are doing is winching in a direct straight line and don't need to steer it at all then it's not a problem. Trailer tyres typically take more pressure than for a car. I think mine are 45 psi to support an 1800Kg boat. What angle is the ramp and does it flatten out between the top of the ramp and where the winch is? If it does will you be pulling at quite an angle as the trailer hitch nears the top (and depending how far from the hitch the front axle now is). There can be a significant downward pull on the hitch if you attach the cable there and it could collapse the jockey wheel. Attach the cable just in front of the first set of wheels so the trailer still stays straight and downward pull is minimised.
 
No ramp- just the shore itself. So a fairly shallow slope, and possibly quite a distance, but all in a straight line.
It's just a theory at present- depends on how practical and cost-effective other options turn out to be.
I'll need to satisfy myself that a) the ground is firm enough to take the weight, and b) I can install a good enough anchor point to take the strain.

I realise it's a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but is there any way of estimating/calculating what the actual strain will be on the winch when hauling a 3500kg load along a slight incline?
 
Hi.

Have you considered buying some used/worn out indespension units and hubs from a trailer maintenance company and some car wheels from a scrapyard. The units can easily be welded up to work and the whole lot will bolt in place easily.
 
If the axles are moved further apart and one pair do not steer then you either won't be able to turn corners or the tyres could rip off the rim. I grimace when manoeuvering my trailer in boatyards watching the tyres distort.
Click to expand...

One effective answer involves the use of cheap shuttering ply, greased. And if there's a tight turn, long pry bars and two Tirfor winches, one set at right angles to the pull of the other.....
 
Take a trip around some boatyards, and you'll find a variety of launching trolleys, built using lorry axles. There's one at the yard where my boat is, not a million miles from yours, which the owner is trying to sell. If ypou PM me, I'll try to put you in touch if you like.
 
My yard trolley is made from I beams and transit front axles (because I need front/rear steering). Boat and trailer probably come out at around 4+ tons. The axles seem well able to take the weight. The tyres are steel braced light truck tyres inflated to about 60psi but they still look a bit flat when fully laden. In your situation I might look at a pair of twin wheel rear axles to spread the load. The main problem with lorry axles/wheels is the height which means getting the trailer into deeper water and thus having to put it quite a lot further down the beach.
You may be better off just building a fresh trailer with wheels at the corners and a few RSJ's.
 
My trolley was made with the axles from a Ford Transit with double wheels at the rear and it copes ok with the 4 tons plus of my Fulmar.The front tyres get a little too squashed for my liking but I take the weight off them as soon as the trolley is parked.
 
Thanks for the replies and advice... seems like transit axles will be man enough... if this project ever happens.
It just occurred to me that I will need a way of hauling the boat back into the water! The slope won't be enough on its own. I guess an anchor laid astern will have to do, now if anybody wants to suggest a specific brand of anchor...
 
Hello
You should be a bit careful. I friend of mind did exactly what you intend and and on one launch one of the welds gave way resulting on considerable damage to boat. Insurance refused to pay on the basis that the trailer didnot conform to relevant British Standards and in any event the welding was not done by an appropriately coded welder. They deemed the trailer not fit for purpose. You know what sharp *******s they are. Good luck
 
Paddingtonbear said:
Hello
You should be a bit careful. I friend of mind did exactly what you intend and and on one launch one of the welds gave way resulting on considerable damage to boat. Insurance refused to pay on the basis that the trailer didnot conform to relevant British Standards and in any event the welding was not done by an appropriately coded welder. They deemed the trailer not fit for purpose. You know what sharp *******s they are. Good luck
Click to expand...
For that very reason I had vertical tubes welded to the rails next to the wheels and almost touching the ground.If a tyre or a weld lets go the the tube hits the ground and holds everything upright.
 
Not planning on doing any welding. Would be bolting the axles to the existing road trailer chassis, assuming that such a thing is feasible.
I would be planning on being able to revert to a road-legal trailer as that might be useful depending on how plans pan out.
 
Mavanier said:
Not planning on doing any welding. Would be bolting the axles to the existing road trailer chassis, assuming that such a thing is feasible.
I would be planning on being able to revert to a road-legal trailer as that might be useful depending on how plans pan out.
Click to expand...
You can probably use large u bolts.
 
You'll be fine with van axles. Yes, you'll be exceeding their rated load, but they'll have been stressed for a significant overload AND hitting bumps at speed. The only thing you'd need to be careful of is feeding the load into them in about the same sort of area as the vehicle would (i.e. where the leaf springs used to bolt on).

I'd suggest a couple of solid beam axles from the front of an old Sherpa or LDV. You'll virtually get steering thrown in free (at both ends) if you just connect the steering arms together, side-to-side. If you don't, just connect each steering arm to the trailer chassis instead. I think you'll need "some" steering even if you're only moving in a straight line though!
HOWEVER, you'd need to think carefully as to whether you'd be much better off - given that the wheel bearings AND the steering swivels and joints will still be as susceptible to rust as your Indespension units, the replacement bearings will probably be more expensive, (and harder to change) and you'll probably be higher off the ground so it will have to go further underwater before you float off.
 
If you use two front axles ... one at each end... and keep the steering working and put a connector socket for the tow bar through the steering tie bar...

Younget manouvability at both ends and itnis muchneasier to steer in the yard...

Watch out to grease the bearings well... theybdon't much like salt water..
 
Seems a lot of grief hassle and expense to me. If the trailer you have does the job ok why not just use it? The bits that may eventually need replaced may very well work out cheaper and easier than what you are planning. Only thing I would suggest is to remove the braking system entirely if you don't need it.
 
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