Bronze skin fittings

seansea

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I've taken my bronze skin fittings back to bare metal. Any quick solutions to protect them from fouling as thought of buying epoxy paint for small specific area and time for waiting is not appealing. Is it possible to use a silicon spray for one season? After all anodes will protect the metal itself.
 
My skin fittings are antifouled using the same paint as the hull, which works OK. Bronze can be antifouled using Velox prop a/f primed with Hammerite Special Metals primer. This gives very good protection. As said, bronze does not need corrosion protection but beware that the ball in many of them is brass. See 'Brass and Bronze' on my website.
 
I've taken my bronze skin fittings back to bare metal. Any quick solutions to protect them from fouling as thought of buying epoxy paint for small specific area and time for waiting is not appealing. Is it possible to use a silicon spray for one season? After all anodes will protect the metal itself.
With respect I think you're over egging this. No bonding needed nor A/F paint. Keep bright with a brush and spend time saved on maintaining clean and smooth operation. Do check sealant not cracked or peeling away. Got softwood plugs to hand in case of problems? Cocks have that nasty habit of freezing on you the day you plan to voyage forth.

PWG
 
My skin fittings are antifouled using the same paint as the hull, which works OK. Bronze can be antifouled using Velox prop a/f primed with Hammerite Special Metals primer. This gives very good protection. As said, bronze does not need corrosion protection but beware that the ball in many of them is brass. See 'Brass and Bronze' on my website.
I concur with this: about 4/5 years ago changed all my underwater skin fittings, seacocks and hose tails from manufacturers original plated brass ones to bronze, the seacocks having S/S handles. Always just antifoul with normal AF paint each year. This spring engine intake seacock failed - ball to handle joint broke leaving seacock shut when you put handle to open. Discovered this as no water exiting exhaust on starting engine when launched.

Quickly bought new seacock and fitted whilst afloat. The body of the faulty seacock appeared perfect, but you could see pitting and corrosion of the internal brass ball. Really don't think this was anything to do with use of AF, more poor manufacturing idea. The new replacement bronze seacock now has a plastic ball.
 
Surely if you leave them bare metal or even Polish them they are still going to weed up fairly quick? Would make more sense to a/f them ?
 
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