Bronze boll***s

[Kristal]

Moray McPhail of the excellent Classic Marine reports that the eminent supplier of classic boat bits have begun working in stainless as well as more traditional metals. This is interesting, as I was only just discussing with CM's neighbour, Mike Illingworth of Robertson's of Woodbridge, whether it would be nice to replace much of Crystal's bronzework with stainless instead. I have got the right arse with Verdigris, and Crystal's mainmast is already ablaze with quite stunning stainless work designed for a quite different boat and transplanted to her by sheer good fortune before I bought her. She also sports stainless steel standing rigging and Norseman terminals on the same mast. I think she'd look lovely with stainless fittings all round, and seeing as some of her original bronze fittings require replacing, this is the right time to think about it.

I am, of course, hearing all sorts of dissent from all sorts of people about this - interestingly, none of them boatowners - and words are being used like "ruining the olde worlde charm" and "authenticity" - this, by the way, amuses me as even I have no idea what is "authentic" as she doesn't even carry her original rig or deck...

So it's from you fellow owners I seek opinions - can stainless (or indeed Chrome) work on a wooden boat of classic appearance?

/<

 

[carben]

Yes.

I bet J Class yahcts would have used stainless if they had it then.

Meanwhile, what are you doing with your old brass bits?

 

[Peterduck]

I agree with you Kris, that this search for the elusive 'authenticity' is greatly overdone by people who are not responsible for the boat's welfare. The only thing I would like to caution you on is to make sure that the stainless steel that you get is non-magnetic. Not because I have a problem with magnetism per se, but that it serves as a very effective test of stainless which won't go rusty on you. 308 grade is magnetic, 316 [and better grades] is not. Most of Swallow's above deck hardware is galvanised steel, which is appropriate for an old fishing boat.

Stainless shrouds have a nast habit of failing at the point where they exit the terminal fitting, especially when this is a swage. This is because there is a concentration of stress there. I would hope that the Norseman fittings are more benign, but would recommend that you check these spots annually with crack-testing fluid.
Peter

 

[BrendanS]

That's a new one for me. What is crack testing fluid, and does it have any brand names?

 

[cliff]

Brendan, I think he may be referring to penetrant testing AKA Dye-Pen - a generally a red dye that soaks into any surface breaking discontinuity (crack!) the surplus dye is removed and a developer applied. When the dye seeps back out of the discontinuity the colour is visible indicating the size and length of the "problem"
As it is impossible to adequately clean the multistrand wire rigging wire where it enters the fitting this method is of doubtful use in detecting cracks in the wires.
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"

 

[aphay]

Whilst admittedly a stinkpot, the bronze fittings on my 1937 William Osborne were chromed from new.

 

[Mirelle]

Mirelle, a sailing boat built in the same year, also had chromed fittings when new. The portholes are still chromed; it's worn off the other bits.

 

[liziwiz]

Thanks everyone but we would like to keep to the bronze fittings verdigris an all will look on ebay good tip thank you. Classic marine dont quite have the right thing. However any further ideas always appreciated.

 

[Kristal]

[ QUOTE ]
Meanwhile, what are you doing with your old brass bits?

[/ QUOTE ]

I shall probably ask if anybody in here would like them, but to be honest there isn't a great deal to be had - Crystal is notably undercleated, with only a samson post forward and a tiny bar through the bumpkin aft. When I can find an adequately elegant stainless version of those sheet cleats with one short and one long horn, there will be two of those and potentially a bronze mainsheet horse too, if a stainless replacement wouldn't be extravagant. Items like portlights will most likely be out of the question after a new winter cover and a tender have been paid for, and the only other notable bronze items are the highfield levers which I can't part with, despite one of them having developed an alarming intermittent fault.

Oh, there are the bottlescrews - I think I was told they are Merryman turnbuckles, and well thought of. But I think I will keep these, as I doubt I'll find any stainless ones as pretty, and I still want a bit of bronze about.

David, I'm fascinated by the magnetic test, and am looking for somewhere to buy a pocket magnet. This was always something I promised I'd do when buying old cars, never did, and ended up with some shockingly bodged vehicles as a result! A brand-name for the fluid would be a handy tip off, too, as this is the sort of thing I will do in earnest with the mast down.

Cheers,

/<