Broken Window

dragoon

dragoon

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Hi,
An otherwise decent weekend was marred by a broken heads window, which must have occurred in the last couple of days, in my absence.

The windows are original and I know the frames are no longer available. Does anyone have any recommendations for companies who could make a new toughened window pane? Also, any guidance on stripping the frames?

Cheers Paul
 

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There are quite a few marine window specialist about, but as I have not used one I will wait until someone can come up with a recommendation, however just a tip in the meantime to keep the broken window in place buy some of that clear book backing sticky vinyl and cut to size and stick both inside and outside.
 
Try Eagle boat windows, I have used them previously , now under new management and exhibit at SIBS by the Holiday Inn.

http://www.eagleboatwindows.co.uk/

Is your Hull on your Royal 34 Wood or GRP, what year is she? MY father had three of them .

An alternative would be to replace the glass in Perspex or Polycarbonate ie Lexan or Macrolon which is easy to cut, drill and work.

The windows in the later Royal 34's were by Ertek in Denmark as were some fairline portholes and you can get replacement parts see http://www.ertec.dk/hovede.htm
 
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Hi Bandit, thanks for the reply.

3 of them! Wow, your dad was keen :) where did he keep/use them?

Dragoon is a GRP hull, made in 1980 and I bought her in 2001. Great boats IMO, but due to her age takes a bit of upkeep.

It looks like Ertec have the same styles as my windows, which were made by NC Berg originally. That's good news, now to see the costs though!

I learned from the neighbouring boat that he's had a contractor working on Friday polishing his hull. i'll bet there's a link, as this happened after Thursday and before Saturday. I'm not holding my breath for any confessions though :(


Thanks again!
 
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I bought some screw catches from Ertek about 10 years ago good service.

My father had his first in 1967 and all wood boat with a pair of Volvo Penta about 120 hp then another fibreglass hull and larger engines then finally one in about 1980 with a pair of 306hp VP's then in about 1985 he bought a Royal Cruiser /Stobro Bruks 36 only about 4 or five were built later extended to a 38 which looked like a Fairline Turbo 46 in layout which he had till he died in 1989 and when we sold it through Paul Haswell it went to Japan.
 
Hard to tell with pic.
but look like frame splits at the mitered top corners.
you could put flat lam in instead of toughened with is more readily available.

Why not get your insurance to sort it...if you want to keep cost down.
 
Bandit said:
I bought some screw catches from Ertek about 10 years ago good service.

My father had his first in 1967 and all wood boat with a pair of Volvo Penta about 120 hp then another fibreglass hull and larger engines then finally one in about 1980 with a pair of 306hp VP's then in about 1985 he bought a Royal Cruiser /Stobro Bruks 36 only about 4 or five were built later extended to a 38 which looked like a Fairline Turbo 46 in layout which he had till he died in 1989 and when we sold it through Paul Haswell it went to Japan.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's impressive. I can understand the desire he had for them.
 
moonraker 36 said:
Hard to tell with pic.
but look like frame splits at the mitered top corners.
you could put flat lam in instead of toughened with is more readily available.

Why not get your insurance to sort it...if you want to keep cost down.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I may resort to insurance but tend to avoid claims unless essential. My view is that they tend to get back through an increased premium.
 
If you can get the old piece out whole use it as a pattern, my feeling is it will need to be toughened glass as laminated would be too thick and it will need to be cut, edges ground to shape and corner radius cut as well as drilled for the Ertek catches before it is toughened. once glass is toughened you cant work it.
 
flat lam come's in 4mm & 6mm normally.
different colour's from shadowlite bronze green or clear.
if you need any holes in the glass so as to bolt through the glass it will have to be toughened as stated above.
radius corners in flat lam a dead easy to do and would'nt cause you any problems.
 
Thanks Bandit and Moonraker. I went down to the boat again tonight - still contemplating the best way to tackle the strip down.
 
You should be able to get the broken opening section complete with its own frame, out and leave the main frame and non opening window in place.

Years ago I had a Halmatic 34 and I took all the windows out and sent them to Eagle boat windows for a refurb. I cut ordinary Hardwood to sixe and used 50mm wide PVC insulation tape to stick the hardboard to the coach house no leaks.

If your broken glass comes out in one piece you could take a template from that and put a piece of Perspex back on a temporary basis until the new bit arrives.

Either way I would mark the frame with affine felt pen so I know the centres position for the two Ertek twist catches in case the glass falls apart.
 
Thanks, Bandit.

The opening piece slides in a channel and cant come out from either side as it interferes with upright parts of the frame. Accodring to Ertec, the only options to remove the opening piece are either diassemble the fixed frame (I looked into this last night - it looks risky as its pinned and the window glued in), or modify the channel to allow the window to be removed.

The modification would involve cutting a section from the channel with a dremel. I favor this route, but am not wild about it either.

I'll let you know how I get on. Good idea also on marking the frame for the catches - I will do that on the uprights and alomg the bottom.

Cheers Paul
 
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