Broken throttle lever ... repair ?? (NB)

VicS

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The picture shows a broken throttle control lever..

The question is how to repair it.

Brazing/silver soldering I can mange I think but the metal is only 1/16" thick so that's not going to last 5 minutes if just butted together.

I was wondering if I can braze a washer over the break. (I can modify what it fits onto to accept the extra thickness)

If so how can I set it up to hold the bits in place. I can weight the small bit drown on a flat refractory surface and I can prop the cranked bit up level but I cant see how to clamp it.

Any ideas ?

Araldite ? J-B Weld ??

I should have put something in the picture so give an idea of scale .... the washer is a 5/16" one
DSCF1117.jpg
 

ghostlymoron

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Best option is to replace with a new one if you can find one. Second best would be to weld a plate on the back and drill to match the original. Brazing would probably not be good on galvanised.
 

VicS

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Best option is to replace with a new one if you can find one. Second best would be to weld a plate on the back and drill to match the original. Brazing would probably not be good on galvanised.

Zero chance of finding a replacement. Not galvanised, just plain MS.
 

LadyInBed

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Plate with L shaped edges chemical metaled in place ( use a baked bean tin).
If the holes either side of the break aren't filled with 'bits' then put tongues on the ends of the plate to bend through the holes.
If holes are used for other things, bend the L edge over the to make a U or make plate longer and replicate the holes to take the 'bits'.
 
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onesea

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Zero chance of finding a replacement. Not galvanised, just plain MS.

Boat jumble?

Buy some sheet MS and make pattern then jigsaw? Would take time but igf you get the right tools might not take that much time???

Depends how much has to be correct to the mm.
 

PlankWalker

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Boat jumble?

Buy some sheet MS and make pattern then jigsaw? Would take time but igf you get the right tools might not take that much time???

Depends how much has to be correct to the mm.


+1 wont be to difficult with 16 gauge MS, it drills and files easy.

Plank
 

VicS

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I was wondering if I could make one.

The "difficult" bit would be the little bit that sticks out of the side that carries an small adjusting screw.

Plate with turned up edges edges rather than the washer may be a possibility. J-B Welded on. Snag is that the edges are not straight. Anything fixed over it would have to be on the side from which the photo was taken only I think. It would not matter if the square hole was covered on that side. It's only a location for a spring clip.
 

nedmin

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If you cant make one from the same thickness of steel your washer idea would work.If you havent got the right gear for brazing why not silver solder with a propane gun,I would grind off the galvanising and put a coat of silver solder on the broken bits and also the washer They need to be clean..Make sure you fully coat them.I would then place them together and melt the silver solder.This would make a very strong joint.To give you an idea how strong silver solder is I made some steps from 1 inch square tubing I butted all the joints and they are extremely strong.
 

reeac

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The only way that I can think to achieve very firm clamping [and that's the secret in silver soldering] is to fabricate a thick [say 4 mm.]strip which is long enough to allow a good G-clamp at each end which would hold the ends of the lever remote from the joint. It would need to be "top hat" in shape to allow clearance for a refractory block under the joint. If you could use the springiness of the strip to create some force pressing the joint together then that would be advantageous. Keep the clamps as far away from the joint as possible to minimise heat shunting.
 

VicS

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If you cant make one from the same thickness of steel your washer idea would work.If you havent got the right gear for brazing why not silver solder with a propane gun,I would grind off the galvanising and put a coat of silver solder on the broken bits and also the washer They need to be clean..Make sure you fully coat them.I would then place them together and melt the silver solder.This would make a very strong joint.To give you an idea how strong silver solder is I made some steps from 1 inch square tubing I butted all the joints and they are extremely strong.

The "brazing rods" I have are presumably really silver solder... They are a silver alloy anyway. Cant remember what I bought then for. Some small job years ago

I have a torch with several sizes of nozzle and a little air compressor to use with it
 

donm

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I was wondering if I could make one.

The "difficult" bit would be the little bit that sticks out of the side that carries an small adjusting screw.

Plate with turned up edges edges rather than the washer may be a possibility. J-B Welded on. Snag is that the edges are not straight. Anything fixed over it would have to be on the side from which the photo was taken only I think. It would not matter if the square hole was covered on that side. It's only a location for a spring clip.

Got to be the best solution. The existing pieces are good as a template, so a good saw and files and a healthy helping of patience should do the job, and I would be tempted to cut it all out rather thanJ-B welding a lug on.

Photo of the final product on completion please?
 

CharlesSwallow

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What make of engine?

Briggs & Stratton? Suffolk? Honda? Yamaha? It must be identifiable and there are some very good on-line spares suppliers if you Google. I have located both Briggs & Stratton and Yamaha parts recently by this method.

Chas
 

charles_reed

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The picture shows a broken throttle control lever..

The question is how to repair it.

Brazing/silver soldering I can mange I think but the metal is only 1/16" thick so that's not going to last 5 minutes if just butted together.

I was wondering if I can braze a washer over the break. (I can modify what it fits onto to accept the extra thickness)

If so how can I set it up to hold the bits in place. I can weight the small bit drown on a flat refractory surface and I can prop the cranked bit up level but I cant see how to clamp it.

Any ideas ?

Araldite ? J-B Weld ??

I should have put something in the picture so give an idea of scale .... the washer is a 5/16" one
DSCF1117.jpg
I'd take to my little machine shop in Messolonghi and have it welded whilst I waited - he'd not give me a price but I'd pay him €5.
Cut back, built up with weld and then re-drilled.
 

VicS

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Its a Tecumseh engine.

I got the number off it this morning but no luck locating it. At least not yet.

Too old I suspect .. pre 1980 .. possibly by quite a few years.
 

rotrax

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I have done hundreds of simple repairs to items like this. My way would be to pinch the two pieces in the corner of the vice jaws- you will need a good vice- and tack together using oxy acetylene ( thats what I have). No doubt MIG, TIG or Argon arc would also do. Once tacked, complete the weld, flatten if required while still hot and then clean up the weld and braze on a washer. Job done.
 

oldbilbo

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Consider securing the break-faces together temporarily using a drop or two of superglue. Pass a length of threaded rod/studding/bolt of similar diameter to the stud/bolt in the machine, with a hefty washer either side. Screw on a nut either side, and make up tight.

Braze/silver solder the washers to the component, each side in turn. Remove the nuts and studding/bolt, and fit component

If the washers foul something circumferentially, use a grinding wheel to fit.
 
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