Britsh Seagull Weeping

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Kurrawong_Kid

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I have a 40+ which I keep as a spare. It runs fine, but a brown oily liquid seeps down the exhaust tube after it has been running for a bit which is a right pain. I am minded to try and cure the problem. Can any forumite suggest a cause? My thoughts are either a blown cylinder head gasket allowing a fuelly watery liquid to escape or, more likely, a worn lower main bearing. It's difficult to see where it is coming from but I suspect back pressure from the exhaust blows it out around the top of the exhaust tube. Still it still goes after 37 years. Dread to think what the emissions are though I should think it's long paid its carbon footprint-whatever that is.
 
I have a 40 featherweight I've stripped and rebuilt and which is the same. It seems to be an exhaust product direct from the cylinder, bearing in mind if you remove the larger tube you are looking straight into the bottom end of the cylinder via the exhaust port. All I suggest you do to stop the muck running down the tube is try and seal the push-fit tube onto the cylinder block before fitting the retaining screw into the collar. A fibre washer there might help as well.

Seagulls are wonderful for what they are, pretty much "squaddie-proof" but lets face it, they don't so much weep as positively haemorrhage filth!

A feature of the high petroil ratio no doubt., just run it in a test tank of clean water and see how long it takes for the water to become totally fouled - minutes only!
 
I had a 40 Featherweight for 40 years, and it did exactly the same. I thought they all did.
As long as it works, why worry?
 
That is perfectly normal. Do not mess with it! Esp do not remove the head

What fuel are you using, 10:1 or 25:1. If it is a '72 model as you imply it can easily be converted to 25:1. That makes them less messy. You are using an outboard engine oil I hope.

The number on the crankcase just above the drive shaft tube flange will ID the year (and month probably)

See the Saving old Seagulls website

and the Saving old Seagulls forum

for everything you could possibly want to know and parts.


PS got a 40+ and a40 Featherweight, both from the early 1970s
 
Vic knows what he is talking about (as usual). I believe that the brown gunge is part burnt oil from the exhaust dribbling from the exhaust port into the stainless cover tube. And they do all do that. It is not a fault. You need an old sheet or similar to wrap it in, & a fertiliser bag to contain the gunge if you want to lay it down in your boot.
 
Thanks sailorman! Looks like no parts are needed! I, too, have the remains of a 1947 "Featherweight"-the one with the earlier cylinder block and a round tank. Ran hot and seized fatally struggling to reach K on a mooring on the Exe against a wicked spring tide. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
Should have a Villiers carb which you can convert to run 25:1 with a different needle. That will reduce but not eliminate the gunge. As other say one of the reasons they last such a long time is that everything is protected by the gunge!

Also if you are running on a rubber duck or a low transom dinghy it might be worth putting in a spacer collar to raise the power head/reduce shaft length. This reduces back pressure and improves combustion. Static water level should be just above the bottom of the exhaust tube.
 
As Tranona says it only requires a different needle to convert to 25:1 and
on a small dinghy a "depth adjusting collar" can be fitted to raise the engine. I have one that I fitted to the 40+ to use it on my little dinghy but now I use the Featherweight which is 2" shorter anyway (The only truly short shaft engine that I know of)

Both carb needle and I think the depth adjusting collar are available from John Williams at Saving old Seagulls.
 
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