British Columbia - Is it so bad?

[global_odyssey]

I'm chartering a yacht to explore British Columbia and Vancouver Island this Autumn. The information I'm collecting appears out-of-this-world, compared to the Solent, and beyond anything the RYA has prepared me for.
Firstly, Magnetic variation is about 23 degrees East., Then there are large and small, high and low tides which alternate . Finally, tidal steams and rates are frequently brisk in the straights and can reach 16 - 20 knots with whirlpools, standing rapids, etc. in the some of the narrows.
Is this as exciting as it looks or will I actually get some time to relax and enjoy the sail?
If you've been there, how did you find it? What are the must sees?

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[wildbeaver]

Never been....but there's a great novel "Passage to Junneau" about a small yacht trip in those waters.....lots of detail plus insights into indigenous cultures / natural history etc

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[AndrewB]

British Columbia - its great!

The Gulf Islands are one of the world's great cruising grounds. Fabulous scenery, quaint villages to visit, secluded anchorages, wonderful wildlife with a good chance to see Orcas. It's mostly sheltered, easy sailing in generally light winds. A little crowded in places at the height of the season, but nothing like the Solent.

The tides do take a bit of getting used to. If you are familiar with the Solent, think of it as basically the same pattern but just once a day instead of twice. However, they are a bit more complicated than this and do make sure the charterers provide you with a proper tide atlas as well as decent charts. You will need to allow for the currents, as you would in the western Solent, and they are generally similar strength. There are just a few narrow channels, like Active Passage, where they get seriously strong, but those places are easily avoided.

Must sees for me would be Portland Island to explore, and the village of Ganges to visit. But there are plenty just as good. Crabbing is very easy around the islands, and many charter yachts come equipped with a pot. Bait it with small a tin of cat food, punctured on one side, should guarantee several overnight. Salmon fishing is also popular and they are surprisingly easy to catch, but you have to arrange a licence.

Hope you have a good time. The weather is reliably fine in summer, but gets more variable in the autumn, and there is a risk of really thick, persistent fog. But for the most part you don't need to worry about the compass, its all strictly eye-ball stuff.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Passage to Juneau

Author Jonathan Raban, a brit who now lives in Seattle. He also has at least two other books worth looking at from a sailors p-o-v. One about a trip in an outboard powered aliminium dory down the Mississippi called (I think) Old Glory, and one called Coasting about sailing around Britain. Also recommended by him, Bad Lands, a history of how the northern praries in the US were settled basically by the railroad companies conning poor urban workers that there was easy farming to be had out there.

I think Juneau has one n, b-t-w.

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[global_odyssey]

Re: British Columbia - its great!

Thanks for responses - impressively swift for my first-time posting!

We start in Sidney near Victoria so the Gulf Islands will be on the doorstep. The islands alone would probably keep us busy for 2 weeks, but we want to visit other places like Princess louisa Inlet (mainland) and get down to Vancouver too. I reckon we'll have to save Desolation Sound until our next trip (or even until our eventual global odyssey).
I guess we'll be very weather dependent anyway in October and will take it as it comes.
The yacht is equipped (apparently) with everything needed (exceeding Canadian Goastguard Requirements), including all charts. It's difficult to know exactly what to expect with tidal flow timings until we get there. However, I've found an excellent Canadian Fisheries/Environmental site for tidal heights at several harbours which allows for some planning.

In the meantime I'll see if I can get my local llibrary to track down 'Passage to Juneau'.

Fair winds...



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[ccscott49]

BC is wonderful, dont believe all you hear, not all but some of it!!

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[wpsalm]

I,m from there and sailed that coast extensively.... but many years since I was back...having a good sail depends on the weather and in the fall it can start to rain more or less continuosly until the following summer...

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[kynaston]

I grew up in Sidney and lived there till 1985. It has some of the best temperate climate sailing in the world - though I am sure others will wish to disagree (eye of the beholder and such).

The tides are frustrating but as I now cruise the West country here I would say that they are no more frustrating than trying to judge when you can get round St. Albans head inside passage without an annoying race.

As another poster noted, the deviation will not be an issue if you stay in the Georgia Strait as it will be all eyeball navigation. A small note, if you decide to cross to Vancouver I would reccommend using Porlier pass rather than Active pass. You have longer in the shelter of the Gulf Islands, the passage across Georgia Strait is shorter and the ferries do not use this pass. It does have strong tides so time your arrival for slack water but the whirlpools are worth seeing!

Do bear in mind that the rocks go bang very loudly if you hit them and marks are not the as numerous as they are here. When a child we used to have a rock off our beach which was just inside the route to the local marina and my Brother and I would give scores out of ten to the speed boats that strayed too far in shore.

Places to visit: Saturna Island is very nice, A visit Victoria Inner Harbour provides and interesting contrast with the more isolated anchorages. Sidney spit makes a great place for a beach BBQ if you are still allowed to do that. Further north and I would reccommend Thetis Island. Finally, if you are able, I would thoroughly reccommend Friday Harbour on San Juan Islands which is the main town in the American San Juan Islands. I would check the visa situation on this though.

do you dive as well, as the diving is very good though cold?

PS. If you are feeling adventerous and have the time I would go up Jarvis Inlet to Princess Louisa Inlet. The entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet is where you get the 15 kt tides! We went through in a Fisher 37 and while waiting for slack water you could see the water flowing down hill!

Althoug it is now 18 years (helppp!!) since I left there feel free to contact me if you want to discuss it a bit more.

Good sailing.

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[global_odyssey]

<when it starts raining in Autumm it doesn't stop until the following Summer> - sounds ominous. The charter company tells us that in South Vancouver Island they are often wearing shorts until the end of October! ..... ..We'll pack our thermals then!

Do any rocks not go bang? - Maybe if we look for one covered in kelp?

Thanks for the good info - stating to confirm that we should have a good time (..... apart from the rain, whirlpools, rocks and sailing uphill/downhill)

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[kynaston]

The kelp is a useful indicator of where the bits that go bang are.

The East side of Vancouver Island is in a rain shadow from the mountains on the Island which means that Sidney can have much better weather than Vancouver which has the opposite and is seriously wet. If you really want wet, try the west coast of the Island. Like the Western Isles only more so. Having said that Berkeley Sound is a fascinating place and very remote - guaranteed anchorages to yourself.

The weather in October could well be good but I would be prepared for rain as well.

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[AndrewB]

Re: British Columbia - its great!

One of places I've used is Island Cruising in Sidney. First-rate company.

Personally I wouldn't bother with Vancouver, best to go there by ferry. It depends how long you have got, but with a fortnight, you'll find plenty in the Gulf Islands and the San Juans. Its a waste to spend time on long passages. Desolation Sound is too far away.

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[global_odyssey]

Re: British Columbia - its great!

We're going with Island Cruising too - I found them on the web and they seem pretty OK so far - thanks for your independent reference - very reassuring.

Point taken about desolation sound, but we'll still aim to get to Princess Louisa inlet (Malibu rapids). We also want to go into Howe Sound so will probably nip down to False Creek, Vancouver anyway to spend a day there.

Long passages are out anyway since night sailing is not allowed by the charter company (standard stuff) and, by the time we go, there will only be about 11 or 12 houirs of daylight.

I'm impressed with this forum - seem to be getting hooked!

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[Twister_Ken]

>Do any rocks not go bang?<

I'm reliably informed by those who make a habit of hitting rocks (aka the Royal Navy) that if you hit one covered in bladder wrack, they go POPOPOPOPOPOP.

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[qetoo]

Have you made the trip to the British Columbia Gulf Islands?

We have cruised there ten times from Seattle, WA. I can highly recommend it. When we cross Georgia Strait, we do it from Nanaimo. It is highly worthwhile to go further northwest to Desolation Sound. We have posted many of our pictures at:

http://carlten.tripod.com/index.html

Carl and Gloria Tenning
"Q E Too"

 

[jonjo]

I know of a whirlpool in the English Channel if you want some practice.

 

[tico]

Hi Mike
Good to see you at the weekend. Saw 'Alk' coming back in and presumed the handover went well.
Bet youre sad to see her go after all the hard work.

Cruised North from Vancouver a few years ago... spectacular scenery.

wouldnt have thought stories of big tides and currents would have worried you..... Just like Jack Sound on a spring!!!
Very best of luck with the future.