Bringing a 2T Outboard Back into Service

Stemar

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I've just acquired a Suzuki DT2 2hp 2 stroke engine of around 1995 vintage. It hasn't been used for several years, and I want to get it back into service, as it weighs about half what my current 3.5 4T does.

Here's my plan of attack:

1. Clean out the fuel tank, filter and lines
2. Clean the carb
3. Change gear oil
4. Change impellor
5. Grease everything that moves on the outside
6. Squirt a bit of 2T oil down the plug hole and turn it over a few times
7. New plug
8. Fill up with 50:1
9. Start her up - with a bit of luck!

If that doesn't work, check the ignition system.

Have I missed anything?

Final question for now. The recommended fuel mix is 100:1 except for in South Africa and for commercial use. I always used 50:1 for my late lamented Tohatsu, any benefit to using it for the Suzy?

Thanks all!
 
I've just acquired a Suzuki DT2 2hp 2 stroke engine of around 1995 vintage. It hasn't been used for several years, and I want to get it back into service, as it weighs about half what my current 3.5 4T does.

Here's my plan of attack:

1. Clean out the fuel tank, filter and lines
2. Clean the carb
3. Change gear oil
4. Change impellor
5. Grease everything that moves on the outside
6. Squirt a bit of 2T oil down the plug hole and turn it over a few times
7. New plug
8. Fill up with 50:1
9. Start her up - with a bit of luck!

If that doesn't work, check the ignition system.

Have I missed anything?

Final question for now. The recommended fuel mix is 100:1 except for in South Africa and for commercial use. I always used 50:1 for my late lamented Tohatsu, any benefit to using it for the Suzy?

Thanks all!
Best to stick with 50:1 mix on older engines - 100:1 may be ok when it was new but better lubrication with 50:1 on older engines in my view. Watch and hopefully see water emerging from the pee hole on start up! Good luck
 
My understanding is that the 100:1 mix is an environmental measure. I've always run mine on 50:1 without any problems or excessive smoke etc.

There isn't much to check on the ignition system - apart from the plug itself it's basically a single sealed part. Mine did fail a few years ago (the engine would sometimes run, sometimes not, and might stop and refuse to restart unpredictably at any time) but was easily, if not particularly cheaply, replaced.

They are indeed pleasantly lightweight engines (I can easily carry mine up to the foredeck in one hand, or walk up the pontoons to the car with it over my shoulder) though perhaps a bit noisy compared to modern 4-strokes.

Pete
 
hopefully see water emerging from the pee hole on start up! Good luck

The 2hp 2-stroke Suzuki doesn't have a pee-hole as such, just a pair of holes in the leg (which is also the exhaust tube) that emit a fine spray rather than a concentrated stream.

Pete
 
I have the same engine in the garage, only mine is from the 70's...

The only think I'd do is spray carb / brake cleaner through the carb jet, stick some new fuel in it and I would almost guarantee it will fire by third pull of the cord. Brilliant engines
 
I've just acquired a Suzuki DT2 2hp 2 stroke engine of around 1995 vintage. It hasn't been used for several years, and I want to get it back into service, as it weighs about half what my current 3.5 4T does.



Have I missed anything?

Final question for now. The recommended fuel mix is 100:1 except for in South Africa and for commercial use. I always used 50:1 for my late lamented Tohatsu, any benefit to using it for the Suzy?

Thanks all!
A compression test first of all to make sure it is worth doing all the other stuff

Check spark with an adjustable air gap tester. It should jump 7/16".

If weak spark you may be stuffed as the igntion coil for CDI models is NLA
 
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I wouldn’t suggest throwing the motor straight in the bin, as I was able to google up some new-old-stock of what I think was the right part. But you do seem to be correct that it’s no longer a standard dealer item.

Pete
 
My first step would be to put some petrol in and see if it runs, then fault find if it doesn't or, service if it does.

I'm with Graham376 on this.

I have an ancient DT2 that sees only very occasional use. It has always started and run fine, even after several years languishing in the shed.

I do turn it over (without starting it) from time to time in the hope that this avoids the piston getting stuck. The piston never has stuck, so that means either this technique is effective, or that it was entirely unnecessary! :D
 
Your plan of attack sounds pretty much spot on! It is probably worth checking for a spark first too though.
With the carb, proper carb cleaner works wonders but it can attack and damage some rubbers and plastics so use it sparingly to clean the bits like the jets that will really benefit from it.

You may well find that the old gaskets and seals (I'm thinking particularly inlet manifold and float bowl) are degraded and fall apart when you disassemble them - if they are o rings they shouldn't be too hard to find, while paper or fibre gaskets are easy to cut out if you have the old ones handy.

If it has a spark, a clean carb and some level of compression it will probably run and is worth salvaging!

ETA:
Along with the obvious jets (usually brass) depending on the carb there will be all sorts of small drillings in the carb body itself that will be for air or small pilot jets - make sure these are clear too
 
Personally, I'd probably have the float bowl off before trying to start it, unless it involved a lot of dismantling other bits to get at it.
 
I would be hard pushed to not just give a whirl and see what happens, but your (OP's) approach seems more sensible.

As for the suggestion of carb cleaner, I would never use it in a non-running 2-stroke, it will strip the bore and other bits dry and possibly cause damage. Different matter if the carb's off, obviously. With the length of time it's been unused you are hopefully safe from the dreaded ethanol corrosion, which is a sod in small carbs
 
As a former owner of the Suzuki 2.2 I used to always begin by pulling the choke partly out and giving it a first pull frequently it would start immediately,the allow to runon lessened choke for a minute then reduce to tickover and choke in. This was from cold only, most times would start immediately.


ianat182
 
I have a DT2 which I found to always be fouling it's plug up. Once I switched to using the Aspen fuel it has stopped this. The engine does not have a mixture screw, something which later models had, revealing perhaps a design oversight? Does yours have a mixture screw?
The Aspen may be expensive, but for the relatively low hours I do a year I much prefer it.
 
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