ianat182
Well-known member
Can't see the post I made yesterday,but you could try using a Halford's Lacquer spray as used on car body work,trying on some spare brass first perhaps,but should work OK.
ianat182
ianat182
Brass polishing and wire wool
- Thread starter firstascent2002
- Start date
jontifosi
New member
I've used wire wool on my harley davidson crankcase, triumph thruxton crank case and rocker cover and it's done a fantastic job on aluminium. (you can get coarse and fine wire wool)
I think brass is harder so should be ok - just watch out for wire splinters in your fingers, sometimes you cant see them to get them out again
I think brass is harder so should be ok - just watch out for wire splinters in your fingers, sometimes you cant see them to get them out again
Marine Reflections
Active member
Hi Jaime
This would be a good kit for a drill polishing method, a snake attachment is also handy.
I would try get the area as clean as possible with Brasso or (insert brass cleaning brand here) and fine wire wool to reveal the brass, everything attached to the brass soiling, corrosion, all that is not made of brass needs to come off.
To remove the scratches (the wire wool will remove some) you will need to scratch the brass further, but with more uniformed grit that behaves itself.
240 grit is way too course to start! unless there is serious pitting and very deep scratches to remove.
Are you certain the brass is solid and not a coating?
Try some 1200 paper under a wet flow of water and you will start to 'polish' the brass back into a reflection, as this is worked it will reveal the scratches in a better light/depth and give you an idea of how much further into the brass you will need to go.
From this test you will see clearer what is required.
The more perfect the brass reflection the less need there will be for a barrier to oxygen.
Heavy duty paste wax layer will work hard and not mess with the finish too much, clear coat lacquers will provide the most hands free durability, but peel / crack away if not applied correctly also can't be applied as easily as the paste wax.
Piccy of some portholes I did, these were black and pitted, there is ten of them and yes, they were a pain but was worth every minute.
Lady Campanula
N/A
Just some info. I've followed this, for I needed to clean off tarnish and polish up some profiled brass hinges - for indoor use.
First of all I used some Brasso, which was only marginally effective. I then left them overnight in a tub of CocaCola, which removed quite a lot of the tarnish. Next I used Duraglit wadding, with a spot of Brasso and a lot of rubbing, which removed most of the rest. Then I removed the Brasso residue with paper towelling and rubbing.
That seemed to be effective, for I had a satisfactory 'gleam' everywhere it mattered.
"Good!" thought I. "I'll paint them over with clear nail varnish, to seal in the gleam." I then left 'em for a couple of hours for the varnish to dry.
Oops! On my return, the brass hinges' surfaces were all streaky-tarnished in a 'brown stain' hue. I guess something in the nail varnish had reacted with the brass. I then spent a couple of hours removing the nail varnish and restoring the 'gleam'.
Now I need to find another clear sealant, which will not react with the brass and stain it. Ideas....?
First of all I used some Brasso, which was only marginally effective. I then left them overnight in a tub of CocaCola, which removed quite a lot of the tarnish. Next I used Duraglit wadding, with a spot of Brasso and a lot of rubbing, which removed most of the rest. Then I removed the Brasso residue with paper towelling and rubbing.
That seemed to be effective, for I had a satisfactory 'gleam' everywhere it mattered.
"Good!" thought I. "I'll paint them over with clear nail varnish, to seal in the gleam." I then left 'em for a couple of hours for the varnish to dry.
Oops! On my return, the brass hinges' surfaces were all streaky-tarnished in a 'brown stain' hue. I guess something in the nail varnish had reacted with the brass. I then spent a couple of hours removing the nail varnish and restoring the 'gleam'.
Now I need to find another clear sealant, which will not react with the brass and stain it. Ideas....?
Marine Reflections
Active member
I think the problem was not cleaning the brass free of brasso/cola residue, de-greasing with say Acetone would work, you cleaned it off with a paper towel and rubbing, probably this that reacted.
A normal clear lacquer spray can from Halfords should suit, just very thin layer.
A normal clear lacquer spray can from Halfords should suit, just very thin layer.
Lady Campanula
N/A
Here's how they turned out:
I cleaned off the nail varnish using 'nail varnish remover' and a used toothbrush, then I used Duraglit wadding with some Brasso to remove residual staining and bring back the 'gleam'. Paper towelling was used to remove all traces of the Brasso/Duraglit residue, until no 'black' staning was evident on the paper.
Then I sealed in - hopefully - the 'gleam' using Roncote Hard PU Varnish. Now the results are completing their drying overnight, on toothpick sticks.
We'll see in the morning....
I cleaned off the nail varnish using 'nail varnish remover' and a used toothbrush, then I used Duraglit wadding with some Brasso to remove residual staining and bring back the 'gleam'. Paper towelling was used to remove all traces of the Brasso/Duraglit residue, until no 'black' staning was evident on the paper.
Then I sealed in - hopefully - the 'gleam' using Roncote Hard PU Varnish. Now the results are completing their drying overnight, on toothpick sticks.
We'll see in the morning....
Marine Reflections
Active member
They look perfect!
SAMYL
Well-known member
One usefull tip if you plan to lacquer the brass.
Firstly make sure it is very clean by using cellulose thinners or acetone. Secondly heat the brass gently in an oven to make sure it is properly dry, allow to cool until it is just warm then spray it with your chosen lacquer.
Do not brush paint it as the lacquer will dry too quickly and show brush marks.
Lady Campanula
N/A
I wish you'd said that a day ago.....
I used an old bristle brush to put PU varnish onto one side of a sample, then left it overnight. There were some brush marks. I revisited that sample, then all the others, using a foam 'tipping off' brush. So far, I'm satisfied.