Bow Roller Loop

[roblpm]

Hi

I have just bought a new Spade S60 for my Parker 275 (and before anyone says it is too small I am limited by the anchor locker and am not planning to anchor in a Force 8!). Fits nicely in the anchor locker and is all fine and dandy!

However the bow roller is not deep enough for the shank so where the pin would go through does not clear the shank.

So I have seen this sort of arrangement in pictures on the internet:



This has a loop which sits over the anchor and then the anchor would be secured to a convenient deck cleat by the chain.

I have googled stainless U Bolts but what I need is a sort of U bolt that has bolt holes to bolt the loop crossways to the holes that exist for the pin at the moment.

Actually this isnt going to work as then how do you take the anchor off to put it in the locker!

So what I really need is another brilliant idea of a removable, lockable loop that can lock over the anchor while it is sitting on the bow roller ready for deployment.

OR

Should I forget that and have the anchor just sitting on the bow roller and fix it like this?? Will it jump off?



Any ideas??!!

 

[Dipper]

On my previous boat, I fitted two lengths of s/s chainplate (like a Meccano piece) either side of the roller held in place by the roller spindle. I then put a drop nose pin through the two chainplates at the correct height. They have some here but there must be other firms as well. http://www.chmarine.com/acatalog/Eye_Fittings.html

 

[oldbilbo]

......what I really need is another brilliant idea of a removable, lockable loop that can lock over the anchor while it is sitting on the bow roller ready for deployment.

Through each of the holes, from inside out, a short dome-headed s/s bolt/machine screw. Onto each threaded portion of the short bolts, on the outside, a ring-nut.

Then a short length of light chain, or a short length of s/s 7x7 wire with Talurit eyes on each end, and a small snaplink though each Talurit eye.

One end is snapped onto one ringnut. The chain or wire is passed over the anchor's shank, and snapped onto the other ringnut.

If that's too complex, a length of Dyneema looped to provide a small selvagee strop, and one snaplink, will achieve the same object. A short length of 1" or 3/4" reinforced hose, slipped over the short strop, will prevent chafe.

Should the holes be close enough to the top edge of each bow roller-cheek, then the snaplinks can snap on 'directly'....

 

[roblpm]

Great ideas guys. I need to go and measure up!!