Boring engine & generator question

peteandthira

peteandthira

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Dear all

As a liveaboard who still likes to go out during the winter months, how long should our eng and gen remain unused and un-"wintered"?

I tend to run both for about half an hour each week, or until I think they've had a short time at operating temperature.

Do you think this is enough? Should I just leave them? Run them more often or for longer?

Thanks guys

Pops
 
Re: Boring engine & generator question

I'm sure that the techno experts will have a proper reply but from my own experience. I have kept the boat in the water over the winter and not winterised it, used it on the odd weekend with no adverse effects. In Norway, the locals don't winterise anything other than changing oil and filters at the beginning of autumn.
 
Re: Boring engine & generator question

I agree entirely. far better to use both than leave them even "wintyerised" which is itself only a compromise.

Steve Cronin
 
Re: Boring engine & generator question

Thanks guys, but without wishing to offend, you haven't answered my real query about how much they should be RUN... any ideas of frequency, duration, perhaps not even bother unless we need to use them?

Thank you both again

Pops
 
Re: Boring engine & generator question

No idea about whether there is a should.

I'd reckon that in the past our usage was about 10 hours a month max, probably nearer 5. We left the boat for 6 months in Norway last year without starting the engine up at all. And when we did it lit up first time.

Personally I'm more concerned about the state of the batteries than I am the engine.
 
Re: Boring engine & generator question

To be asking how long to run an engine whether it is in the winter or summer is the wrong approach to the subject. Engines should not be started and run unless they are under load, to leave an engine idling will only glaze the bores and cause more damage in the long term. I suggest you use what is good practice for any engine: -

Lets assume you are just wishing to heat up the engine.

1. Start engine put in gear and run against warps/lines at around 1200 rpm.
2. Continue to run engine until normal operating temp is reached
3. Select neutral and run (at idle) a further few minutes to allow temperature to equalize.
4. Stop engine.

3. Should be practiced at all times after the engine has been under load, do not just arrive at your berth and stop the engine, allow it a few minutes at idle.
Also remember the greatest wear is seen when the engine is cold so quick start stops are a no-no. Therefore, there is no time scale just good practice.

QED
 
Re: Boring engine & generator question

Chris

Thanks for that. Batteries left permanently on float here so no problem for me there.
 
Re: Boring engine & generator question

Mal113

I'm with you there, I never run either of them at idle, nor switch them off suddenly.

I just know that if I sit idle for a week, I can barely move for a while, and wondered if my "stuff" is the same!

Thanks for your tips.

Pops
 
Bit of an assumption, but if they are likely to be used less through the winter than the summer, then pre-winter is the best time to change the oil and filter.

My Volvo-Penta manual says winterize if expected not to be used for more than a month, so I guess using them weekly should be no problem at all.

Plenty of engines don't get winterised at all ans seem to survive. Plenty don't get used for months on end during the summer either!

Other advice offered on thoroughly warming up is valid. If you are going to start it, warm it up under light load against the warps. 1500 Rpm on the main engine should give you maximum charging, but you could check the system voltage for yourself. Running at that level puts maximum load on the engine (for low rpm), and gives the batteries a boost too.

30 minutes sounds good. They will be as warm as they are going to get after 15-20 mins, so the extra ensures the oil has completely dispersed combustion products.

Even so, at this level a marine diesel is so over cooled it will be nowhere near 'hot', and I wouldn't waste my time running at idle to 'cool it down' before stopping. Save that treatment for the times you make a flat dash across the bay under power, crash stop and drop the anchor for lunch.

Even if you had bashed 10 hours into storm force winds under full power, by the time you had berthed the boat the engine would be cool enough to stop it immediately.

I found my V-P 2002 aux. would run at any setting except absolutely flat out without setting the high temp. alarm off, whilst the water intake was almost completely blocked with many small creatures in their shells. They are way over cooled.

For the generator, likewise 30 minutes under load. Give it a treat and disconnect the shorepower for an evening beforehand!
 
Andy

Thank you for that one, it agrees with my feelings which is always nice. I have never had my overheat alarm go off at full power, although I perhaps didn't give it long enough. I have "heard" that it does a diesel good to give it full power occasionally to prevent a step developing in the cylinder lining. I know the overheat alarm works from when I forgot to open the seacock!

Ta

Pops
 
Just to clarify...

My overheat alarm only sounded because I was testing at full power AND subsequently found (because of the alarm) that the sea water strainer was almost blocked.

Dropping back to 2500 rpm (from 3200) and the alarm stopped and the engine ran on for another hour or so with no problem, or alarm.

It is indeed good to give them a blast. You will find it blows out all the accumulated carbon and clears up blue smoke.

MOT testers know that a 20 minute run without using the higher gears will usually get a marginal case through the emissions test.

My BMW manual instructs the driver to operate at higher revs after a prolonged period at low rpm, around town f'rinstance. So you can't criticise BMW drivers for going fast!
 
Re: Just to clarify...

[ QUOTE ]

MOT testers know that a 20 minute run without using the higher gears will usually get a marginal case through the emissions test.



[/ QUOTE ]

Learned that trick many years ago when my (old diesel) car failed on emissions. Now always do it routinely even on a quite new car, along with putting in a new air-filter at least for the duration of the test /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Vic
 
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