Boot Top/Copper Coat/Top Sides Boundary?

auditdata

auditdata

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 Oct 2009
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303
Location
Chester
www.sephina.org
Hi Guys,
Some advice please. Sephina has been resprayed and now copper coat applied.
Next is the Boot top paint. I have ordered Hempel Boot Top paint and now need to know how and where to apply it. Should it go above the copper coat thus covering the top sides coat or half way between the copper coat and the top sides or the top of the copper coat. I have no idea how to prepare either surface but guess it would need to be masking taped and slightly sanded. Any advice please
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auditdata said:
Hi Guys,
Some advice please. Sephina has been resprayed and now copper coat applied.
Next is the Boot top paint. I have ordered Hempel Boot Top paint and now need to know how and where to apply it. Should it go above the copper coat thus covering the top sides coat or half way between the copper coat and the top sides or the top of the copper coat. I have no idea how to prepare either surface but guess it would need to be masking taped and slightly sanded. Any advice please
DSC_6074.jpg
DSC_6072.jpg
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Leave a gap of at least two inches between the copper coat and mask of and then abrade before applying.
 
Thanks Rivonia, are you saying 2 inches above the copper coat i.e. if the boot top was blue it would be Coppercoat, white, blue and white so not blue on the copper coat/gel coat boundary?
Clive
 
Boot top paint is just a different form of antifoul. very few boats have them painted on now, that I have seen. if it is antifouling paint them for it to be functional you dont want a gap between the two, ie, no white. Copper then the paint and then the white....
 
do a year without the boot top.

you just spent a couple of k on an antifoul that needs no maintenance and then are adding something that needs maintenance.

if you really hate the colour after a year, add a dark stripe of vinyl an inch above the coppercoat. The white gap will make the coppercoat look even darker, virtually black.

If you still really must have a boot top, it can be above the coppercoat, on the coppercoat or half and half. It doesn't matter. Just abrade with 100 grit and paint. You don't need a gap.
 
This is rather like the discussions on the best way to treat teak! Ultimately, the Coppercoat does the job for antifouling - I did mine a couple of years back. But on the mooring, splashes above the waterline will stain the topsides easily six inches up. I raised the "waterline" about 40mm when I did the Coppercoat and then a boot top 50mm above that. The reasoning (right or wrong) is that its as easy to scour the boot top and repaint it as to try to clean the GRP - and a boot top line looks good (like freshly oiled teak?).

So, it's entirely your choice, but why overlap an expensive antifouling? My neighbours can see that I have Coppercoat applied, although it doesn't always stop weed attaching along the waterline - but then neither does any other antifouling.

Rob.
 
I added a boot top when I did Galadriel with coppercoat. Elessar, I need to talk to you about removing it, more trouble than its worth, in other words auditdata, dont do it!
 
Well - you took our boottop off when you did our coppercoat ... can't see the point of having a paint line that you have to re-paint on when the AF just needs a gentle wipe over once in a while ...
The whole point of coppercoat (for me) is less maintenance !
 
fireball said:
Well - you took our boottop off when you did our coppercoat ... can't see the point of having a paint line that you have to re-paint on when the AF just needs a gentle wipe over once in a while ...
The whole point of coppercoat (for me) is less maintenance !
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Totally agree.

Lots of our clients worry about the colour when they first get coppercoat and ask for a boot top. I always advise them to go a year, then see if it still worries them.
Thus far no one has asked for the boot top to be put on :)
 
Boot top

If you do decide to apply a boot top, you might want to invest in a self-levelling Bosch Quigo laser. It will make it much easier to apply the tape horizontally. I bought mine quite cheaply (£30) on eBay.

You might also want to add cayene pepper to the paint you use. Apparently, it does a great job in deterring any potential hitchhikers.
 
D'eau! said:
If you do decide to apply a boot top, you might want to invest in a self-levelling Bosch Quigo laser. It will make it much easier to apply the tape horizontally. I bought mine quite cheaply (£30) on eBay.
Click to expand...

only if the boat is level fore and aft and side to side. And on a boat what is level? On many boats, on which the moulds are made by eye, they are not even symmetrical.

Remember the boat is curved, move the height of the laser up and the line will bend down amidships and visa versa. The laser can help, just put the line on by eye, not slavishly level and use with caution.

Even then you have the problem that if you follow the laser as accurately as you can in small sections, the tape line will bob up and down.

The best way to mark the waterline is to use quality tape, (3M blue is best) stick it on at the stern, pull it tight right to the bow about 2m off and move to the bow to put it onto the boat in 1 clean action.

Eye it up, if it looks right it is. If is doesn't do it again.

Powerboats are harder. The tape line gives reference points only at each chine, the gaps between need to be done individually using the reference points. It often takes me many attempts to get the bows of a powerboat to look right. A bent line here looks straight, and looking right is right........
 
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I assume that the Coppercoat has been taken up to the waterline or higher and the finish is level? So if you want to mark a boot top you only have to measure off a couple of inches above the Coppercoat - best done with a 2 in block of wood and a spirit level.

Rob.
 
Elessar said:
only if the boat is level fore and aft and side to side. And on a boat what is level? On many boats, on which the moulds are made by eye, they are not even symmetrical.

The laser can help though, just put the line on by eye, not slavishly level.

Then you have the problem that if you follow the laser as accurately as you can in small sections, the tape line will bob up and down.

The best way to mark the waterline is to use quality tape, (3M blue is best) stick it on at the stern, pull it tight right to the bow about 2m off and move to the bow to put it onto the boat in 1 clean action.

Eye it up, if it looks right it is. If is doesn't do it again.

Powerboats are harder. The tape line gives reference point only at each chine, the gaps between need to be done individually using the reference points. It often takes me many attempts to get the bows of a powerboat to look right. A bent line here looks straight, and looking right is right........
Click to expand...

Careful with 3M blue masking tape. I used to work for 3M in product dev and am generally a big fan pf their products but 3M blue is an absolute beggar if its left on for any period of time. Comes of like confetti.
 
Elessar said:
do a year without the boot top.

you just spent a couple of k on an antifoul that needs no maintenance and then are adding something that needs maintenance.

if you really hate the colour after a year, add a dark stripe of vinyl an inch above the coppercoat. The white gap will make the coppercoat look even darker, virtually black.

If you still really must have a boot top, it can be above the coppercoat, on the coppercoat or half and half. It doesn't matter. Just abrade with 100 grit and paint. You don't need a gap.
Click to expand...

Having just had my boat coppercoated by Ellesars gang to minimise future maintenance, I think why have the extra hassle of the boot top. See what she looks like in the water and add a boot top next year if you think it matters and you want the extra maintenance.
 
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