Boat Preparation for move to Ocean Village

we were goign to announce the Calshot to OV via the states trip in next month's MBM:(

I can't work out all these wink things!

A boat to me is like a car, you walk out and get in, turn the key and and off you go. When you get to where you're going, you park! Get out and go to where you're going. You do what you need to do and then go back to the "car" and drive off! Simple! one of those smiley things!
 
Nice job on the gelcoat Gary. Looking good. I have to give Rafiki a polish up, before she goes back in the water, but I use Boatsheen stuff. Actually the hull is still quite shiny from last time I cut it, and might only need a polish. Same with the topsides. Needs to be good to set-off the new canopy.:D
 
Yacht club side Garold.. C55 to be precise

I asked because we are taking up a berth at Ocean Village from Easter.

We have had a season there in the past and enjoyed the 'urban yachtie' setting especially on wet weekends when we could just wander into town to eat and drink if the weather proved too horrible to bother going out.

Looking at the plan we will be just across the fairway from you on D pontoon.

So, when we get there, if you see us around, please give us a shout across the fairway or call round.

We will be the fat catamaran, with the heaters working full blast till about the end of June!

Cheers

Garold
 
Surely, based on your other postings on this forum, it was really.....

stage 1: 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material u

Retire to bar for pint...

stage 2: change to a soft polishing foam pad

Retire to bar for pint...

stage 3: same soft dampened pad to cut a finer shine using 3M Finesse

Retire to bar for pint...

Stage 4: changed to a new soft polishing pad to finish off with 3M Marine Liquid Wax

Retire to bar for pint..

;)
 
Surely, based on your other postings on this forum, it was really.....

stage 1: 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material u

Retire to bar for pint...

stage 2: change to a soft polishing foam pad

Retire to bar for pint...

stage 3: same soft dampened pad to cut a finer shine using 3M Finesse

Retire to bar for pint...

Stage 4: changed to a new soft polishing pad to finish off with 3M Marine Liquid Wax

Retire to bar for pint..

;)

and if truth be known, that's the real reason why the other side looks pants... good side was done in the morning, not so good side got progressively worse as the day went on ;)
 
Last edited:
The long list is getting a little shorter

yes I know that feeling of triing to make that list shorter,
but on my Karnic, the list has never been as long as it is today.


On the Karnic I also had a yellow line (and a dark blue hull),
after one season, I peeled off that line, and the boot looked better without imho.
 
4 stage with a high speed, high torque rotary polisher. not your Halfords job..

stage 1: 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material using a hard foam pad set at low speed (2) and medium pressure with loads of water. It's a pretty coarse compound so used with care. Purpose was to get rid of the oxidisation.

stage 2: change to a soft polishing foam pad progressively increasing speed until all the above compound had gone leaving a shine.. very light pressure, soft pad used at high speed as the hard pad is difficult to control when the compound dries, risking damage to the surface..

stage 3: same soft dampened pad to cut a finer shine using 3M Finesse-It II Finishing material, again, progressively incraesing speed to full (6) with the purpose of getting rid of the course cut from stage 1 and 2.

Stage 4: changed to a new soft polishing pad to finish off with 3M Marine Liquid Wax... Purpose to finish the shine and protect the surface, water beads off.

Was quite quick to achieve once I got the hang of it... tuther side wasn't so good as I'd not cut away the oxidisation so well starting off with a finer compound at higher speed.. turned out not to be so effective.


Thanks for the comprehensive reply,job for thursday on a 40 footer can feel the pain already :)
 
How often do you need to polish your Hull?

4 stage with a high speed, high torque rotary polisher. not your Halfords job..

stage 1: 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material using a hard foam pad set at low speed (2) and medium pressure with loads of water. It's a pretty coarse compound so used with care. Purpose was to get rid of the oxidisation.

stage 2: change to a soft polishing foam pad progressively increasing speed until all the above compound had gone leaving a shine.. very light pressure, soft pad used at high speed as the hard pad is difficult to control when the compound dries, risking damage to the surface..

stage 3: same soft dampened pad to cut a finer shine using 3M Finesse-It II Finishing material, again, progressively incraesing speed to full (6) with the purpose of getting rid of the course cut from stage 1 and 2.

Stage 4: changed to a new soft polishing pad to finish off with 3M Marine Liquid Wax... Purpose to finish the shine and protect the surface, water beads off.

Was quite quick to achieve once I got the hang of it... tuther side wasn't so good as I'd not cut away the oxidisation so well starting off with a finer compound at higher speed.. turned out not to be so effective.
 
I asked because we are taking up a berth at Ocean Village from Easter.

We have had a season there in the past and enjoyed the 'urban yachtie' setting especially on wet weekends when we could just wander into town to eat and drink if the weather proved too horrible to bother going out.

Looking at the plan we will be just across the fairway from you on D pontoon.

So, when we get there, if you see us around, please give us a shout across the fairway or call round.

We will be the fat catamaran, with the heaters working full blast till about the end of June!

Cheers

Garold

excellent, will definitely pop over. we're there all week and will look out for your arrival
 
How often do you need to polish your Hull?

once a year but considering we've own the boat for a little over that time.. going by the state of the oxidisation, it suggests that's not frequent enough... will see how long the shine lasts with the marine wax... The blue doesn't help I guess
 
On the Karnic I also had a yellow line (and a dark blue hull),
after one season, I peeled off that line, and the boot looked better without imho.

I like that thought.. will take it off and see what it looks like, it's matching the antifoul to the gelcoat that would concern me though... the boat used to look like this so the yellow strip serves a purpose to seperate blue gelcoat from blue antifoul that now goes all the way up to the yellow strip at the bow... removing it would give two shades of blue above the waterline

picture.php
 
4 stage with a high speed, high torque rotary polisher. not your Halfords job..

stage 1: 3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material using a hard foam pad set at low speed (2) and medium pressure with loads of water. It's a pretty coarse compound so used with care. Purpose was to get rid of the oxidisation.

stage 2: change to a soft polishing foam pad progressively increasing speed until all the above compound had gone leaving a shine.. very light pressure, soft pad used at high speed as the hard pad is difficult to control when the compound dries, risking damage to the surface..

stage 3: same soft dampened pad to cut a finer shine using 3M Finesse-It II Finishing material, again, progressively incraesing speed to full (6) with the purpose of getting rid of the course cut from stage 1 and 2.

Stage 4: changed to a new soft polishing pad to finish off with 3M Marine Liquid Wax... Purpose to finish the shine and protect the surface, water beads off.

Was quite quick to achieve once I got the hang of it... tuther side wasn't so good as I'd not cut away the oxidisation so well starting off with a finer compound at higher speed.. turned out not to be so effective.

Change the hard cutting foam pad to a lambswool one for far better results, the hard foam pads are not the best for control or ability in the polishing world and are very poor at spreading the polish evenly.
Try not to use water as a lube, get some quick detail spray as its far more 'slippery' and work it at a tad higher than speed 2 (but that could be down to each machine) I use a Flex and work it faster than that.

Looks like you are getting the hang of it though, you can do mine next :D
 
Top