Boat in build pics (Squadron 78)

[BartW]

really impressed with the outstanding high level of finishing,
every detail, even when hidden behind a panel,
rear of the dash f.e., the spare hoses with a rope,...
all unbelievable. A real piece of art !

I like the design of the galley, black granite (marlin?) with white oak, and straight lines, no curves, we have the same at home in our kitchen.
Modern, but nevertheless timeless. imho
Finally a boat without the boaring old fashion glossy cherry wood furniture.

Question: what is the long small black slot on the dash,
just above the engine start stop buttons ?

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Looking good jfm. Excellent idea to take out the curves in the master cabin. Curves waste space and space is at a premium on any boat even a 78 footer

 

[petem]

Looks a little cramped. Is there not a larger model?

Now there's a coded message if ever I've seen one. Seen the light at last then Magnum and given up on those inferior makes?

Boat looking fab JFM.

Pete

 

[Hurricane]

As otherrs have said - coming along really well.
Those shots of the cabin remind me.

Anyway, did you say that the switches in the cockpit were for deck lighting and shore power master relays?

Dont you think that it would be a bit too easy to switch the shore power off without meaning to?
Shouldnt the switches be a bit special - with covers or soething?

 

[aquapower]

As otherrs have said - coming along really well.
Those shots of the cabin remind me.

Anyway, did you say that the switches in the cockpit were for deck lighting and shore power master relays?

Dont you think that it would be a bit too easy to switch the shore power off without meaning to?
Shouldnt the switches be a bit special - with covers or soething?

Would one of those swiches be for the mooring winch?

 

[MapisM]

Scuse the awfully made bed; Tracey Emin dropped by

Yep, her touch is clearly recognisable, though obviously she wasn't as accurate as with her own bed!

On a more serious note, I must say that the cleats/winches/fairleads looks like a bit of an engineering afterthought.
Truth be told, I wouldn't mind giving a hand with the lines, anyway...

Are you thinking to varnish the teak rails?
I'd rather keep them unvarnished, they look beautiful anyway and the touch feeling is much nicer imho.

 

[jfm]

Looks a little cramped. Is there not a larger model?

ROTFL! Now play nicely

 

[jfm]

Question: what is the long small black slot on the dash, just above the engine start stop buttons ?

It's the strip of warning lights for the engines Bart. When there is a fault, little symbols light up red/orange, but when there are no lights on it just looks black, like a car

 

[jfm]

Now there's a coded message if ever I've seen one.

Nah Pete. You're barking up t'wrong tree

 

[petem]

Nah Pete. You're barking up t'wrong tree

Doh, there's me thinking I was being really clever!

 

[jfm]

Dont you think that it would be a bit too easy to switch the shore power off without meaning to?
Shouldnt the switches be a bit special - with covers or soething?

You're right hurricane. But it's all my fault. The normal sq78 build has the shore power switches separated like this...

Back in May, I thought I wanted more circuits/switches so I asked them to block the mould to make more room. In the event, when I got into detailed thinking mode, I realised I only wanted one extra circuit (three extra down lights in the flybridge overhang to light up the dining table on the lower aft deck, and I deleted the u/w light switch because I have the Lumishore electronic controller, so it turned out I didn't need to modify the mould after all. So I ended up with the below layout, when in fact I'd have been better off if I kept Fairline's original. Ho hum, and no worries. It'a hard to do a detailed customisation like this without the odd mistake here and there!. In fact, the shorepower switched have shrouds to make them a bit different, and I might put red actuators on them (as you know the actuaotrs on carling switches just snap on and off and are £1 each or something)

 

[jfm]

Would one of those swiches be for the mooring winch?

No Tom. The contura III switches are all exterior lights. The winch is operated by the black footswitch on the deck, left side of picture. BTW in case it looks a long way from the winch, it is located there deliberately. In my book it should be mounted so as to encourage the operator not to have hands near the winch. It's fairline's standard position, but if hadn't been I'd have asked them to put the switch there

 

[jfm]

I must say that the cleats/winches/fairleads looks like a bit of an engineering afterthought.

MapisM you are a fussy buugger! I looked at every detail of the boat when drawing up my mods list, and I thought the mooring gear was perfectly ok so didn't change anything (except I specced a bigger anchor). I like the cleat on the vertical surface because if you put it on horizontal surface you tend to make the whole section bigger, so increasing the footprint of the mooring box, and eating up a bit of deck space. I'm intrigued as to what your perfect set up would be!

Are you thinking to varnish the teak rails?
I'd rather keep them unvarnished, they look beautiful anyway and the touch feeling is much nicer imho.

I don't like them when they go pale/silver and they are not as easy as decks to clean: the 2-part will all slosh down the outside of the hull, yuk, and it's hard to scrub the underside. So I'm going to oil them. I want to keep them brown, and it's no trouble to oil them once a month. For winter i will have sunbrella covers made that attach with velcro underneath, to keep the u/v light off them. They are very nicely made (laminated teak, with cross grian in some of the plies for strength) and they feel very nice to hold

 

[jfm]

I like the design of the galley, black granite (marlin?) with white oak, and straight lines, no curves, we have the same at home in our kitchen.

I dunno what the granite is called. Black with sparkly bits. They put a 2mm step up in the grnaite all around the edge, to form a slight fiddle

Actually, though the whole boat is oak, in the galley I'm having all wenge cupboard/. It will be oak on the surfaces that face into the saloon, but wenge within the galley. I like it because it makes a nice contrast with the oak - otherwise there would be acres of oak. It also makes the galley feel like a separate zone, not a continuation of the rest of the boat. Fairline have done a couple of boats like this; pic of one below

 

[Nautical]

Marble is called black Galaxy

 

[jfm]

Marble is called black Galaxy

Pic from the "mood board" that the nice folks at Fairline kindly gave me (with samples of all the woods, fabrics, granites, avonites etc chosen for the boat) is below. I suspect different suppliers call granite from the same quarry different names, and therefore black galaxy=nero galaxia?

 

[MapisM]

MapisM you are a fussy buugger!
...
I'm intrigued as to what your perfect set up would be!

Guilty as charged, your Honour!

Re. my perfect setup, it's easier to explain what made me think that this one wasn't carefully thought.
With a general caveat, of course: judging only based on a pic can be misleading.

Anyway, it's not so much about the horizontal cleat - though I prefer vertical ones, if given the choice. My doubts are rather the following:

First of all, it seems to me that a line attached to the dock diagonally, outside the boat beam, would scratch against the steel plate surrounding the fairlead, rather than go straight from the cleat to the roller.

Secondly, if you have only one line and you want to tighten it with the winch before securing it to the cleat, obviously you must bring the line around the cleat before, and I don't think that the geometry between the cleat and the winch will facilitate that, because the winch isn't aligned with the cleat.
Btw, what's its rotation? It's probably better to have it rotating clockwise, in this respect (opposite for port cleat of course).

Thirdly, that locker just under the cleat is a constraint I wouldn't want to have, while handling the lines. Or can it be kept fully open while maneuvering? I'm not sure, doesn't it interfere with the footswitch when open?

PS: yup, "nero" is black in Italian. "Galaxia" is actually a bit mixed up, 'cause the Italian for galaxy is "galassia".
But never mind, I prefer absolute black granite anyway. Yours truly, the fussy buugger.

PPS: re. your plans for the teak rails, chapeau! When it's due, it's due.

 

[jfm]

First of all, it seems to me that a line attached to the dock diagonally, outside the boat beam, would scratch against the steel plate surrounding the fairlead, rather than go straight from the cleat to the roller.

You might be right there. My lines go striaght astern of course, as in a typical med mooring, but if they spread out beyond the beam they might rub on that edge. I'll look more closely next time I'm there

Secondly, if you have only one line and you want to tighten it with the winch before securing it to the cleat, obviously you must bring the line around the cleat before, and I don't think that the geometry between the cleat and the winch will facilitate that, because the winch isn't aligned with the cleat.
Btw, what's its rotation? It's probably better to have it rotating clockwise, in this respect (opposite for port cleat of course).

Each to their own on this, but I always leave the stern lines on the capstan drums. Now I know many yacht captains suck their teeth and say "oooh that will damage the capstans" but that is just captain bar talk with no engineering basis. You could leave one of those winch drums loaded with a tonne for 5000 years and it would be perfectly fine.

If I do want to free up the capstan I don't put the line on the cleat first. I put the line just on the capstan and wind it in 0.5m too far, then release it and cleat the line, and by the time 60tonnes worth of boat inertia boat has moved the wrong way by 0.5m you have the rope on the cleat and probably a cigar too.

They always go clockwise. At least, I've never seen an anticlockwise boat winch

Thirdly, that locker just under the cleat is a constraint I wouldn't want to have, while handling the lines. Or can it be kept fully open while maneuvering? I'm not sure, doesn't it interfere with the footswitch when open?

I cannot imagine any mooring scenario when the locker door would be open. It would always be shut, so far as I am concerned, when manoeuvering. Once the boat is tied up, you stuff the spare tail end of rope into the locker, and after you leave the berth you store the rope in the locker. But when actually entering/leaving a berth, the door is shut, in my book. So I like the lockers very much as a way of keeping that zone tidy both when berthed and when at sea

 

[MapisM]

I agree that the capstan shouldn't suffer if kept tensioned. I simply prefer to have it always available just in case, but for the usage you describe, the above layout with the winch in the middle of the fairlead is perfect.
Can't agree with your technique for freeing up the capstan, though.
Depending on how elastic the bow lines are, it can take very little to move forward even a big boat. Besides, even assuming that the time is enough to cleat the line, those very same 60T would build up quite some force during that movement. Probably not enough to break the line, but then again, you never know...

Re.the rotation, I don't think it's so rare for maneuvering winches to spin either CW or CCW. Surely not in my boat frinstance, but I'm pretty sure to have seen it elsewhere, though I can't remember on which boat by heart. Ferretti maybe. Deleted User, am I dreaming of it?
Anyhow, sometimes the placement dictates the rotation.

Re. the lines locker, I agree, when berthed or at sea it's bound to stay closed. It's just while handling the lines around the cleats that I figured it could be an obstacle. But not if you're using only the winch, of course.

 

[jonnybuoy]

Jfm: did Lumishore fit the LED lights for you or did they supply & fairline fit?

Jon