Boat in build pics (2013 Fairline Squadron 78)

[John100156]

I'm not following your thinking John. There is no need to climb over the gearboxes- you can read the Cat screens and push the Cat switches while standing aft of the gearox or on the corridor between the engines. Hard to describe clearly; easy to see if you're on the boat!

In image in post #352 it just looked as if the panels were square facing aft, are they at a slight angle? Still, you certainly know your boat, so I'm sure you have this well covered! Just wondering if I had to use a multimeter on the panel, with the engine running, etc. Too hot an area to work in? If heat and access are all OK, then all's well.

I also like the white caulking and the white instead of cream, so all looking VERY good to me at this stage! Can't wait to see the end result.....

 

[John100156]

At this stage with so much wiring going in, I wonder how much it would cost to add some simple Cable ID numbering/markers at sensible intervals along the length of each cable? We spec it a lot nowadays with IT cabling infrastrucures (I'm forever tracing out cabling on my boat and she's only a 43ft'er).

Then ID the cable numbers on the as-installed schematic. Aaaaarh wishful thinking I think. So easy to do when installing, you will then know what each cable is, at a later date, running through each compartment! You could do the same with the pipework, just a bedtime thought. They may already be doing it....

 

[Nick_H]

Let’s not get too technical here, but the hot ambient temperature in the engine room is handy for warming a bottle (or so) of red on a cool night...Not that this is a concern in the south of France!

Handy tip if your plonk is too cold - stick it in the microwave for a minute. No need to open it or remove the metal top or foil.

Mind you, 80 degs for 12 hours in jfm's engine room, he could heat up mulled wine in there!

 

[Barbican]

Great to see the progress and attention to detail in your build. My smaller sailyboat started at a similar time but I think yours has overtaken already!

 

[rubberduck]

I think I understand the design criteria for the idrive........

You owe me a new keyboard now. This ones covered in coffee.

 

[EME]

Wow ...

.. another 3 of hours of my life I wont get back. I thought I knew some of the mods but this really is a new level. Then again, it had to be to outdo JFM78-Mk1.

Throttle Positioning - Having been fortunate enough to play with the levers on Match 1 --- imo the positioning is not only very accessible with no issue (suggested by some) with the wheel but ergonomically an improvement on a higher positioning.

I've re-read but the electronics / displays seem still to be a secret.. or did I miss something?

I think the white caulking is brave .. then again some might have said that about light grey caulking a few years ago and now everyone who sees ours loves it.

Tsskk - afraid of a few (more) tiny holes for a bit more colour ...

Bring on the next bits ..

 

[EME]

Interesting message to Lumishore top right.

I've always thought they were rGb .. but obviously Fairline's brilliant engineers know something I don't ?

They obviously didnt have enough to time to write .. "Worth-every-Penny' after the £ sign ...

 

[David of Essex]

How do you protect yourself

In today’s financial climate how do you protect your investment when purchasing a new build boat? Not wishing to dull another great read on jfm’s new build just interested in how you protect yourself against either the agent or manufacturer.
David

 

[rafiki_]

David, JFM does this through selective customising. Worked well enough on Match 1.

 

[David of Essex]

David, JFM does this through selective customising. Worked well enough on Match 1.

Have I understood correctly that by modifying the build from the manufactures standard build this protects your money in the event that the manufacturer goes into receivership. Please excuse not knowing insolvency law as my only experience was recently losing money earlier this year by Petrolpus Refining Ltd going into receivership.
David

 

[rafiki_]

Have I understood correctly that by modifying the build from the manufactures standard build this protects your money in the event that the manufacturer goes into receivership. Please excuse not knowing insolvency law as my only experience was recently losing money earlier this year by Petrolpus Refining Ltd going into receivership.
David

Sorry, I misunderstood your question. If you mean how do you protect your investment during the build, before delivery, JFM is purchasing the boat through Essex Boatyards. They do the transaction with Fairline, so JFM is insulated to a large extent from any potential financial problems that Fairline might have. Mind you, selling 10 or so Squ 78's would imply to me that Fairline have a reasonable cash flow situation.

 

[David of Essex]

Sorry, I misunderstood your question. If you mean how do you protect your investment during the build, before delivery, JFM is purchasing the boat through Essex Boatyards. They do the transaction with Fairline, so JFM is insulated to a large extent from any potential financial problems that Fairline might have. Mind you, selling 10 or so Squ 78's would imply to me that Fairline have a reasonable cash flow situation.

Hi Rafiki
Thanks for your replies
David

 

[jfm]

Yup, on the insolvency front, I dont have a magic solution and approach this from pov of thinking carefully about EBY's solvency and Failine's. Both are good enough, imho. In early Jan2013 approx I will make the last payment and take ownership (even if boat is still at factory) and then insolvency risks pretty much disappear. But overall I dont think I'm taking a huge risk with Fairline and Essex Boatyards.

 

[BartW]

The black tanks (this boat will have 2; a standard Sq78 has 3, but same total volume) are all plastic. This is the only material I'd ever spec. A metal tank incl stainless steel is always going to be a time bomb. It may last a few years but good luck to anyone who can predict when that weld will split. If you are replacing BA's tank then you gotta use plastic IMHO. You can use the rotomoulded plastic tanks if you have the doorway width etc to get one in, or if necessary you can mould in GRP using thick wall and special gelcoat. But it's gotta be non metallic, in my books

very interesting and good advice, thanks
Now even more convinced to replace my old steel tank,
(second reason is lowering the U/R and E/R floor)
Here is a local comp that makes tanks for big camper vans, by welding HDPE
Do you think that material is OK ?


Why 2 or 3 tanks ?
BA has only one which sits under the Util room floor
And one large plastic (black) tube, in the bilge along the center line, leading the waste to the tank, (by gravity)
Only problem so far, when the tank is (almost) full, there is a smell in the Util room,
If we empty the tank regularly, no problem.
apart from that, no issues.

Where is the air outlet of your two tanks ?
Will you have a carbon or any other fume filters ?

 

[jfm]

very interesting and good advice, thanks
Now even more convinced to replace my old steel tank,
(second reason is lowering the U/R and E/R floor)
Here is a local comp that makes tanks for big camper vans, by welding HDPE
Do you think that material is OK ?


Why 2 or 3 tanks ?
BA has only one which sits under the Util room floor
And one large plastic (black) tube, in the bilge along the center line, leading the waste to the tank, (by gravity)
Only problem so far, when the tank is (almost) full, there is a smell in the Util room,
If we empty the tank regularly, no problem.
apart from that, no issues.

Where is the air outlet of your two tanks ?
Will you have a carbon or any other fume filters ?

hi Bart
I do not know exactly which plastic you should use. Maybe try Tek Tanks website for info. Or Lee Sanitation

I also do not know about welded plastics. Probably ok, but the welds have to be good. The thing has significant pressure plus a lot of (low amplitude)stress cycles - every time you go over a wave. The rotomoulded tanks have big radii in the corners whereas the welded platic tank will have sharp corners.

Reason for 2 tanks is to reduce length of pipe. Pipe is a source of smell. I have WCs forward for the guest cabins, and a WC against aft bulkhead of master cabin, and I do not want any black piping under the master cabin, so I must have (at least) 2 tanks. Also I like the redundancy of two completely independent black tank systems - it reduces the chance that an equipment failure spoils a holiday. Match1 had 3 tanks/3 systems but in the redesign for Match2 I changed it to 2 tanks/2 systems

My air vent outlets are on the hull sides and yes I have specced the big carbon filters from Lee Sanitation. I had these on previous boats and they work well. I change the filter about 3 times/year

Making your util floor lower sounds a big job but would be a nice improvement. You would have to be sure the hull frames did not stop you lowering the floor though, right? The guys who did your transom work could do this easily I guess

 

[BartW]

Re. redundancy,
All my toilet outlets (except 1) have a two way valve, sitting under the floor,
for selecting outlet to go to the tank, or directly in the sea, as a backup in case there is a problem with the tank system
yes, 5 extra seacocks
don't you have that ?

Making your util floor lower sounds a big job but would be a nice improvement. You would have to be sure the hull frames did not stop you lowering the floor though, right? The guys who did your transom work could do this easily I guess

ceiling height in E/R and U/R is approx 1,80m, and I'm 1,87m tall, thats why,
but we will only do the gangway, from between the engines, backwards, through the ER bulkhead door, until the steps in front of the new transom door.
We have investigated, only the black tank is in the way,
but appart from that, not a difficult job, don't need to go to Italy for that.
Excuse for the TD.

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Only problem so far, when the tank is (almost) full, there is a smell in the Util room,
If we empty the tank regularly, no problem.
apart from that, no issues.

A black water tank system should not smell even when full. Apart from a leak from the tank which should be obvious there are 2 other potential causes. Over a period of years, the pipework becomes porous and allows odour to escape. An easy test is to take a piece of kitchen paper and rub it on the outside of the pipe. If the paper smells, the pipe is porous. Another potential cause of smells is a blocked vent pipe. This seems to be a problem in the Med where small insects nest in the pipe and eventually block it. When I bought my current boat, I found it had 3 blocked vent pipes. Now I have all vent pipes on my boat including black water, fresh water and fuel tanks blown out every winter

 

[jfm]

Re. redundancy,
All my toilet outlets (except 1) have a two way valve, sitting under the floor, for selecting outlet to go to the tank, or directly in the sea, as a backup in case there is a problem with the tank system
yes, 5 extra seacocks
don't you have that ?

No, I would never spec that. I just don't like that many extra seacocks and bilge piping. I have just one WC that is plumbed to be able to go direct to the sea, if needed in case of tank failure, using a 2-way valve

 

[jfm]

A black water tank system should not smell even when full. Apart from a leak from the tank which should be obvious there are 2 other potential causes. Over a period of years, the pipework becomes porous and allows odour to escape. An easy test is to take a piece of kitchen paper and rub it on the outside of the pipe. If the paper smells, the pipe is porous. Another potential cause of smells is a blocked vent pipe. This seems to be a problem in the Med where small insects nest in the pipe and eventually block it. When I bought my current boat, I found it had 3 blocked vent pipes. Now I have all vent pipes on my boat including black water, fresh water and fuel tanks blown out every winter

Yup, and in addition Deleted User it is nice (if budget permits; it is 2x the price) to use the superior butyl lined/steel reinf piping, eg here, not the white PVC/nitrile (so-called) "low odour" hose that is fitted to most production boats. I had the white PVC in all previous boats becuase I didn't know any better but I've specced this grey butyl lined stuff in Match2

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Yup, and in addition Deleted User it is nice (if budget permits; it is 2x the price) to use the superior butyl lined/steel reinf piping, eg here, not the white PVC/nitrile (so-called) "low odour" hose that is fitted to most production boats. I had the white PVC in all previous boats becuase I didn't know any better but I've specced this grey butyl lined stuff in Match2

I've not seen that stuff before. Thanks for that. Yes you're right, even the so called sewage quality white PVC pipe becomes porous fairly quickly. I plan to change my pipework this year so I'll probably use this stuff. Like your idea of minimising seacocks too. The number of seacocks in modern boats terrifies me especially as most owners don't know where most of them are