Boat handling with twin engines

2_rollocks

2_rollocks

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Well my old dad has finally moved into the modern age and bort a boat with 2 shafts. But he's struggling to get used to close quarter manouvering ie coming alongside a pontoon with limited space in front and behind. Is there an idiots guide as to what happens to a boat with engines going forward or back. I know it should be easier than his old single but he was used to that and is struggling with 2 of the beasts.

Any guidance appreciated.
 
There has been a series of guides in Motor Boats Monthly over the past few months that are well written and really give a very good explanation of the different handling techiniques. Maybe get a couple of back copies?

Other than that, how about a days own boat tuition with a school? WOuld cost about £300 and would sort out all of the handling differences in one hit, plus not limited to just one student on board so you could get the gist as well.

Where is the boat based?
 
Practice in the open slowly, determine which engine does what, i.e prop walk, and it will come to you, the light will dawn. If he can handle one screw two will be a doddle.
 
Easy way to work it out imho is to use the curvature of the throttles. If you put the port throttle ahead then the curvature of the throttle handle shows that the bow will swing to starboard and vice versa. It also works when going astern - and also whether or not you turn round to face the direction of travel. Not very easy to describe in words but if tyou think about it you can get the jist easily enough.
 
He's probably getting flumoxed with to many leavers and wheels.

Leave the wheel alone, midships. It will go anywhere he wants, with just the sticks. Even side ways with a bit of practice.
 
I recommend MOTOR CRUISING, Practical Course Notes, issued by the RYA, simplifies things and an easy read.

Martin T.
 
well having spent today training, as much as you read, or someone will say do this do that, one day you will do something that works but the next day it wont, it will not fit in place.

I have had a guy Dave from Aquapower web page he has stood next to me today teaching just that, and facing strong winds and 5knt tide Ive been mooring up all afternoon in out, in out. Now I know what im doing not an expert but its coming. Its all done on my boat.

At the end I will have more confidence and happy to go anywhere, it is done on my boat and boy is it good.

You will get some great views on here but when your alone at the helm its you who is in control and your the one who decides, a quick read or some good lessons. even a friend or the Ive been doing it for years I will show you person forget it go to someone who knows its worth it.

Highly highly recommend it.
 
You give that advice to everybody, shaft drivers and egg whiskers.
50% of the time, including this time, it's right /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
The simplest way to understand it is the way I taught SWMBO.

Think of the throttle levers like someone's hands on your shoulders.
Push right forward, you get the same effect on the boat as with someone pushing your right shoulder forward, and so on for all variations and scenarios.


Before we bought a twin engined boat we had only had previous experience with handling single engined craft.
Although there's more to control, it's simple in principle and much more controllable once you get used to it.

The main thing to remember is when manoeuvering at close quarters do everything slowly, with gentle throttle action, and any mistakes will be small ones.
 
[ QUOTE ]

Leave the wheel alone, midships.

[/ QUOTE ]

Complete fallacy about not moving the wheel. I do wish that people would not say such things to those new to shafts.
 
Not keen on using Pascoe's method, of using the pileings to push the boat into. Less American ones are different from ours, besides, supposing there aint one.??

I find the big round fender more portable than a pile and a dam site softer.

Makes me wonder if the bloke really knows what he's taling about.
 
In my humble opinion you CAN do most anything with the rudders straight using just the engines. Especially if only light breeze.

You can be even more manoeuvrable using the wheel as well but it takes more experience and is a bit more hectic.

For a beginner I would recommend starting with engines only and progressively add wheel if required and as confidence grows.
 
Sorry Dave, have to disagree! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

If you're new to shafts it's best to leave the wheel alone at first. Once you understand the basics then by all means you can learn to tighten the turn with the rudders. There are many experienced shaft boat drivers that don't use the wheel at all!

The danger for a novice to shaft drives when in confined spaces is that the pivot point moves forward increasing the stern swing and thereby increases the chance of damaging the rear quarter on a pontoon or another boat.

Well that's IMHO but I admit to not being a professional instructor, it's just my view and it makes better sense to me. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
I am simply saying it a fallacy that you should not move the helm. I am not going to get into a long protracted debate over the issue.

Jon is currently shooting a DVD on basic and advanced motor cruiser handling wait until that is released and then make up your minds. I teach both methods and it is put together in a structured way that takes into account issues such as pivot points.

I work with probably the best boat handler I have ever seen - ask him about use of the helm.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I work with probably the best boat handler I have ever seen - ask him about use of the helm.

[/ QUOTE ]

Exactly my point, OK for John M but not someone totally new to shafts. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
Well you'd better start learning to handle shaft then. I have not touched the wheel in the last ten years, whilst manuvering and dont intend starting now. On this at least, I agrea with Pascoe, who ever he is.

I also never touched the wheel when I had outdrives, yes it would turn sharper, or quicker, but who wants to fanny about with all that wheel turning and gear changing, for the sake of a few seconds. Probably get your head in a knot anyway.

With shafts the wheel is about useless as Pascoe says. Besides being totally unnessecary. If you know a way of turning in less than the boats length. Carry on.

When I cant find a gap with more than a foot spare, forwards and astern, then get in and out of it. Wind blowing on or off.
I'll look for another method.

Now if you want showing how to do it. Get your arse down to Pymouth. Or shut up.
 
>I also never touched the wheel when I had outdrives

Take it you never had to go around any tight corners, then /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I'm not getting in to egg whisk tecnology here. We are talking about shafts.

Not even argueing, that when going forwards, wheel and engines, will turn the boat easier. Like, less reverse revs and maybe you keep more speed up. But we are not in a race.

A shaft boat will turn in it's own length, easy, even spin round quite fast. It will go side ways, with no help from bow thrusters or wheel. Pissing about with the wheel, just waists time and causes confusion.

Maybe Solitair will explain how, when in a more or less a stationary position, one engine forwards and the other back, presumably. (confind space) With the rudder turned, your now telling one engine to turn left and the other right.

To get padantic. in some situations, turning the wheel, might help, but emmdiatly canceled out, by the time it takes to change the rudder direction, then add power back on.

I dont have the space for all this faffing about/
 
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