Boat handling with outboard

[PhillM]

So my maiden voyage in Swift today… (Corribiee for those who don’t know) from Fareham to Hasler. What shocked me was how differently she handled with the outboard. I’ve realy not got the hang of it.

Close quarters at Fareham and I could not get her to turn without some speed but speed is not my friend in close quarters. Only the help of others stopped a collision and damage.

Arrived at Hasler as the tide turned to ebb with the wind from the north. I simply could not get her to turn through the wind. I decided to abort and go into an empty berth and was then towed round to where they allowed me (I1 for those who know the marina). Now I’m concerned that I don’t know enough to get her out.

Hints and tips please. Seem I need to unlearn everything I thought I knew and start again!

 

[Bobc]

Steer with the outboard aswell. You can get kick to steer from it.

On my old boat, I connected the outboard to the tiller with a tie bar so they both turned together. Made lots of difference

 

[jeanne]

It was a long time ago, but I used to have a Caprice, which had the 4 Hp. outboard in a well in front of the rudder. As far as i can recall, my first choice was to leave the outboard straight fore and aft, and use the propwash on the rudder to turn. The Corribee was designed by Robert Tucker, as was the Caprice, but I can't recall if it it too has a well, or if it was also a bilge keeler, which the Caprice was, and which must have helped me.
It also occurs to me that, as I sailed it in the Bristol Channel in the 70s, when there were no marinas, I may not have had any tight spots to deal with anyway!

 

[lustyd]

Never tried a Corribee but I do know Haslar and the fairways are probably wider than you think. Today was windy so you probably chose a poor day to try. If you can't turn through the wind maybe try reversing all the way? That way the boat will lie to wind and you may have more control. Some days it's just hard though, tie on where you can and appologise

 

[PhillM]

It was a long time ago, but I used to have a Caprice, which had the 4 Hp. outboard in a well in front of the rudder. As far as i can recall, my first choice was to leave the outboard straight fore and aft, and use the propwash on the rudder to turn. The Corribee was designed by Robert Tucker, as was the Caprice, but I can't recall if it it too has a well, or if it was also a bilge keeler, which the Caprice was, and which must have helped me.
It also occurs to me that, as I sailed it in the Bristol Channel in the 70s, when there were no marinas, I may not have had any tight spots to deal with anyway!

Thank you. The outboard is on a bracket and tbh probably too high too swell caused cavitation. That means the outboard is behind the rudder. Ahead with medium revs and the outboard locked Centre the rudder worked fine down the Chanel. But not with enough manoeuvrability to cope with the marina.

mot also worried me that I had to let go of the tiller and throw myself over the stern to change from forward to reverse.

Trying to steer with the outboard didn’t really work either because the rudder “did its own thing” and seemed to counter it.

i may need to learn to be ambidextrous!

 

[PhillM]

Never tried a Corribee but I do know Haslar and the fairways are probably wider than you think. Today was windy so you probably chose a poor day to try. If you can't turn through the wind maybe try reversing all the way? That way the boat will lie to wind and you may have more control. Some days it's just hard though, tie on where you can and appologise
[/QUOTTE]
Ok so more on my Hasler adventure … I callled as I passed the lightship going at a fairly slow speed. By the time I had an allocated berth I was past it and towards the new square area with the big Boatfolk sign / “thing” at the end of F pontoon i think.
I tried to turn around but found myself being pushed by the wind sideways towards the pontoon end. I tried to reverse out and did manage to get out backward. But turn through the wind I could not. So I went with the flow and headed for F60-somthing. Tied up there and, as you say, apologised.
I am currently in I1 which is against the walk way almost in front of the flats. I was towed in aft first, so I am pointing forward out. Currently unsure how to get forward way and then steer to port to get off the pontoon. The only thing I can think of currently would be to warp forward and then spring off in reverse. But as per my post above I am not sure I’m that ambidextrous to enable me to control the tiler, outboard direction and the forward and reverse gear handle all at the same time.

Any and all advice gratefully received.

 

[lustyd]

On my Vivacity I used to hold the tiller between my legs and just use the outboard. If you can leave when the tide is against you it'll be easier (aka slower) although I have a feeling you're facing south so that might mean an early start! Sadly not there this weekend otherwise I'd come and say hello

 

[mrming]

Assume the outboard is a long shaft? As you’ve said you need to make sure the bracket is low enough to properly submerge the prop. I had a similar size (albeit more modern) boat with a 8hp Yamaha but had morse controls for the throttle. It still wasn’t great but at least you could look where you were going while using throttle and gears. I used to find reverse very useful as the outboard led the boat more predictably. Any tricky manoeuvres I would often reverse in or out.

 

[steveeasy]

I had a 22 dre with outboard. Used to lock tiller and steer with outboard. Light boats really different to handle in close quarters. All boats so different. If that’s your first time out then the fact you got where you were going is a positive.
Edit. Yes mine had morse as well. Did make a bit easier. She was so light though she’d get carried sideways in a breeze. All I could do was get out as quick as possible.
just takes time
steveeasy

 

[oldharry]

Any boat with an aft deck like the Corribee its almost essential to have remote engine controls, unless you can sit on the stern deck and use just the engine to steer. Almost as important is to get the engine low enough to prevent cavitation. It always will in a seaway, but the more you can prevent it the better. A cavitating prop is worse than useless, and in some circumstances can be downright dangerous, as you cannot get and maintain forward thrust, as you found.

 

[Blueboatman]

Any boat with an aft deck like the Corribee its almost essential to have remote engine controls, unless you can sit on the stern deck and use just the engine to steer. Almost as important is to get the engine low enough to prevent cavitation. It always will in a seaway, but the more you can prevent it the better. A cavitating prop is owrse thane useless, and in some circumstances can be downrigt dangerous, as you cannot get and maintain forward thrust.

Aye to all that
Saw a couple of inches off the top of the lifting bracket (!)
And fit a tiller extension
And tighten the friction screw on the motor so it stays straight or at a turn yet still you can push/pull the steering arm
Then, sitting on the stern and using both the motor and the rudder is a doddle
It really is ??

 

[PhillM]

Assume the outboard is a long shaft? As you’ve said you need to make sure the bracket is low enough to properly submerge the prop. I had a similar size (albeit more modern) boat with a 8hp Yamaha but had morse controls for the throttle. It still wasn’t great but at least you could look where you were going while using throttle and gears. I used to find reverse very useful as the outboard led the boat more predictably. Any tricky manoeuvres I would often reverse in or out.

Sadly it’s a short shaft Yamahar 6hp (2 stroke) but on a bracket that lowers it into the water. I’d guess the last 8 inches are submerged. So in swell it was out of the water especially when the boat rocked from side to side. Note this was all the doing of the previous owner: this year I have to live with what I’ve got. Over the winter I can make improvements.

from all the comments above it seems a tiller extension on the outboard is a good next step. They seem cheap and readily available so I’ll see if I can pick one up tomorrow or Monday. Won’t sort the forward / reverse problem but at least I will be able to hold the tiller on one hand the outboard in the other, unless I can readily couple them.

 

[northwind]

Lash a stick or tiller extension to the gear selector on the outboard, that way you can either push and pull it to engage gears or use it vertically as an extension, whichever works best for you.

 

[Blueboatman]

Lash a stick or tiller extension to the gear selector on the outboard, that way you can either push and pull it to engage gears or use it vertically as an extension, whichever works best for you.

Yup.
Sometimes it is easiest to go see a well sorted sister ship and aim ( next year ) to copy it
A short shaft outboard is pretty useless ( and embarrassingly noisy each time it screams as it lifts out and cavitates!)
Sitting on the back with motor in one hand and the BOATS tiller extension in the other will at least keep the stern lower and everything to hand ..
Main thing Is , the OP is out there doing already, hooray ?

 

[PhillM]

Yup.
Sometimes it is easiest to go see a well sorted sister ship and aim ( next year ) to copy it
A short shaft outboard is pretty useless ( and embarrassingly noisy each time it screams as it lifts out and cavitates!)
Sitting on the back with motor in one hand and the BOATS tiller extension in the other will at least keep the stern lower and everything to hand ..
Main thing Is , the OP is out there doing already, hooray ?

Thanks for clarifying that the extension of for the tiller. Agreed about seeing sister ships. Where are you based and if not solent area do you know any owners who are?

 

[SaltIre]

Thank you. The outboard is on a bracket and tbh probably too high too swell caused cavitation. That means the outboard is behind the rudder. Ahead with medium revs and the outboard locked Centre the rudder worked fine down the Chanel. But not with enough manoeuvrability to cope with the marina.

mot also worried me that I had to let go of the tiller and throw myself over the stern to change from forward to reverse.

Trying to steer with the outboard didn’t really work either because the rudder “did its own thing” and seemed to counter it.

i may need to learn to be ambidextrous!

I had a Sadler 25 with an outboard on a transom bracket. I was able to reach the handle on the outboard sitting looking fwd at the back of the cockpit while holding the tiller extension with my other hand. If you can't do this then it is indeed awkward.
You should be able to turn the boat on a sixpence by rotating the outboard through 90 degrees, but as you say the prop needs to be in the water! You need to make sure the clamps are properly tightened, since if they aren't and you put on too much power the outboard will "rotate off the bracket" and go for a swim.

 

[Blueboatman]

Thanks for clarifying that the extension of for the tiller. Agreed about seeing sister ships. Where are you based and if not solent area do you know any owners who are?

Phil I sold my Corribee a long time ago !
But Google would probably help or one of the owners association sites, esp amid those boats listed for sale with lots of photos ?
I had a short shaft seagull for a while — symptoms as you describe
Went to a long shaft 5hp Mariner , never looked back
Then( even better)I moved the lift up bracket to the port side of the transom when I fitted self steering . This made it FAR far easier to wrestle with the motor arm and the ships tiller extension.
Hope that helps a bit ?

 

[onesea]

Some affordable thoughts for you…
+ With outboard astern of engine, you will get more steerage at slow speed in neutral than in gear, however as soon as you engage gear you will reduce your steerage,

+ You need to maintain enough speed to steer by rudder, unless turning outboard as well,

+ PVC drain pipe makes excellent tiller extensions for outboard tillers and you can twist to change speeds,

+ e used to “take the position” on the stern, this was kneeled on the aft locker lids so you could control the boats tiller and turn the outboard change gears throttle etc, Initially when taking this position it might be easier to tie the tiller,

+If you go down the line of throttles and gear changes it can make removing the outboard for security challenging and turning outboard for manoeuvres difficult.

+ I would not give up a reliable short shaft 2stroke for a long shaft 4stroke. Check the specs, long shafts should only give a longer shaft for taller transformers not significantly deeper propeller immersion.

+ She’s a short boat with narrow entry and exist on the water line with the engine on the stern she will cavitate from time to time when pitching or with someone on the bow etc.

My thought try practicing “taking the position” kneeling so you can reach outboard gears and throttle and both tillers along side.
Use a length of drain pipe so you can control throttle from cockpit,
as you approach a berth, take “the position” allowing steering by outboard and tiller (a tiller extension can help here).

With practice using tiller and turning outboard you can become VERY manoeuvrable..

I would rather your set up in a tight space than a long keel boat with an inboard…. You just need to lear how to use it.

 

[PhillM]

@onesea thank you. Short term I have decided to move to a bouy on the Hamble while I learn. At least I will be able to get her on/off it single handed. Lots of great advice and I will start to play. I am sure I can learn … it just suprised me how different it was to my long keel and inboard. She was not easy … until I learned. I guess every day is a school day!

 

[SaltIre]

@onesea thank you. Short term I have decided to move to a bouy on the Hamble while I learn. At least I will be able to get her on/off it single handed. Lots of great advice and I will start to play. I am sure I can learn … it just suprised me how different it was to my long keel and inboard. She was not easy … until I learned. I guess every day is a school day!

I had a learning curve when I moved from my highly manouverable Sadler 25 with outboard to my Moody 336 with inboard!

 

[steveeasy]

I finished last season fine tuning how to set my cruising chute singlehanded. 8 months on and it is utterly shocking how you simply loose confidence. Takes a few trips out to get back in the swing of things even with the same boat let alone a new one.

Steveeasy