Boat electrics help

Could you get a charge from two sources at the same time without some fancy sensing electronics?
If the OB is providing a charge, won't the solar reg sense the 'high' voltage and go into some form of voltage maintenance / trickle charge mode which will provide very little in the way of amps?

You can use two or more charging sources, exactly how they'll behave, in terms of your comments above, will vary considerably depending on what the sources are and the battery SOC.
 
Hi All,

As part of my boat overhaul I am upgrading and servicing the electrics. It's something which I would like to tackle myself as it will help me have a thorough understanding of how my electrics operate.

I have been researching on the tinterweb but would really love someone experienced to provide me with a schematic.

One area which I struggle with is how I wire the solar charge, shore power and engine power to the batteries and the main circuit. The boat charges off an outboard. I understand the premis but its the details of fuses / breakers, isolation switches, monitors etc which I want to get right.

Any pointers to resources would be much appreciated. I don't mind paying for services of getting a diagram detailled up - I can provide full details of what I require.

Many thanks
Go and get help - it exists in the '12 VOLT BIBLE' by Miner Brotherton. Although from the U.S. , little difference to UK needs, as most of our cable loading calibrations etc. has to follow US federal law.
Its a boring looking book, not one of those beautiful coloured coffee table style versions, which if followed carefully leave you abandoned part way through the "how to" logic.

Don't download an online version, get a paper copy, so you can then annotate yourself for future guidance.
 
You dont normally add any fancy sensing electronics or multiway selector switching , when you have solar, inboard engine alternator and shorepower. If the engine alternator , or the shorepower, gets the volts up high enough the solar regulator will merely reduce its output.
I agree, but Paul was suggesting that some extra charge could be had by having two I/P sources, OB and solar.
As you say, "the solar regulator will merely reduce its output". My argument is that it will reduce to the point of being insignificant.
A selector switch will at best serve no useful purpose and at worst could lead to the engine charging being disconnected while the engine is running with dire consequences for the rectifier.
I don't think that pulling the plug (switching off the charge circuit) on a running OB will blow the rectifier as the O/P from OB isn't high, unlike an alternator, but I will bow to anyone who can say that they know better.
 
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