potentillaCO32
Well-Known Member
Maybe charts are on their way out. Did it have a nav station for chartplotter/tablet etcI was on a modern HR the other day. No chart table is not a feature I'd like on any boat irrespective of age or manufacturer.
Maybe charts are on their way out. Did it have a nav station for chartplotter/tablet etcI was on a modern HR the other day. No chart table is not a feature I'd like on any boat irrespective of age or manufacturer.
What difference does it make? Why do you think a cored hull is any more of a problem than a solid one? The vast majority of modern boat have cored hulls and there does not seem to be an epidemic of problems with using them or getting them repaired if damaged.Another question - if we want a boat that is going to take a bit of rough and tumble, maybe a long way away from a repair yard, do we really want a foam or balsa sandwich hull, or would we rather have solid GRP
Well I would stack David Thomas and all the other designers who use chines successfully against you any day of the week. We are not talking about old dinghies but substantial cruising boats where the designers have worked out that carefully positioned chines at the stern improve performance, reduce drag and increase buoyancy and allow more hull volume.As an engineer familiar with thermofluid having spent a chunk of my career working in that field, I can honestly say that's not correct.
You are correct that chines added above the waterline are useful for adding reserve buoyancy. My 32 year hard dinghy has such features. It does add reserve buoyancy but also plenty of drag when the chines are immersed. Anything that increases surface area as chines does increases drag, particularly in light winds.
Interestingly, more volume is achieved by a hemispeircal shapes with less surface area than any chine. A round bilge boat has less drag than a flat one with chines.
You are doing it again - quoting facts straight from the builder. If I could be bothered I could probably dig out Maurice Griffiths comments on the redesign of the GH31 with double soft chines which made exactly the same point over 50 years ago.Are you sure they are not mentioned? The website says “The new hull design with wider transom and lifted soft chines suits the X4³ MkII very well. The additional form stability is quite noticeable, as is the considerably less wake and turbulence of the heeled transom travelling through the water.”
X4³ MkII |.
Very true.Well I would stack David Thomas and all the other designers who use chines successfully against you any day of the week. We are not talking about old dinghies but substantial cruising boats where the designers have worked out that carefully positioned chines at the stern improve performance, reduce drag and increase buoyancy and allow more hull volume.
When asked about the adoption of it in contemporary AWB design, he laughed.
Q: But how to explain the advantages of chines, when actually used properly in production boats? ‘In these boats,’ he says,
A: ‘you are allowed to end up with any hull shape you want, you can choose any beam at the back of the boat. There are no specific rules. That freedom allows you to exploit transom shapes that reduce dynamic drag as a function of heel and speed. So if you say what is the advantage – well, I don’t think there is an advantage per se, like “OK, we have a chine, therefore you have an advantage”. It’s more like, if you optimise the hull with complete freedom, no rules, you will most likely end up with a hull that has a chine at a very specific spot. So, like I said, the chine is a consequence, it’s an output.’
Q: OK, but to be even more specific: the advantage of this hull shape, that for one reason or another ends up with chines – is it mostly present on broad sailing angles, maybe even planing? Or is it good upwind as well?
A: ‘It can actually be very good upwind,’ Juan explains. ‘Particularly for boats with a symmetrical keel in the middle, like a regular production boat.
‘When the boat heels the chine helps in balancing the boat. It’s good for safety as well. On a boat with a wide transom and a single rudder, the rudder has to be very far forward on the hull to stay in the water when the boat is heeled. That reduces steering moment, and to overcome that it’s necessary to make the rudder bigger. Which gives you more drag. But even now, with the rudder moved forward on the hull, you will find it very difficult to press the boat hard, because the boat will lose balance with a lot of heel.
‘Putting the chine in the water helps balance the boat back. It’s almost like having an extra rudder in the water. When the chine is submerged the boat will have a tendency to bear away a little more. That makes it possible to load the sails harder, add some more power to the boat and take advantage of its form stability. Thus the chine can help take pressure off the rudder.
‘The same thing actually applies on broader angles – if the boat is fast enough. Fast boats will always have the apparent wind pretty much forwards, and basically experience roughly the same situation, when it comes to side force and heeling.
‘On normal displacement cruising boats, that almost never exceed hull speed, the whole concept of wide sterns and chines doesn’t really have any relevance – certainly from a performance point of view. Even on lightweight, faster boats the chines have to be designed properly and located properly. Otherwise they don’t do anything. Chines can only make the boat go faster within a very specific set of circumstances, and I don’t see these circumstances appearing very often on a normal production boat.’
We are not talking about chined hulls against round bilge where you would indeed expect greater hull resistance with chines - particularly hard single chine.On chine hulls:
Chined hulls have a minimum 5% higher resistance than round bilge forms. This was established by tank testing. Rounding off the chine, R= 0.008 DWL, significantly improves resistance. (Konstruktion u. Bau von Yachten, Scharping, page 96 and continued)
Yes, I too have owned a Griffiths chined design. My current, round bilged tub would absolutely sail circles around it (see avatar).
The success of the early Van de Stadt hard chine designs had nothing to do the chine. It was because they were significantly lighter than the competition.
The well known IMOCA designer Juan Kouyoumdijan explains the advent of contemporary chine design:
"In order to reduce the extraordinary beam the wide arc of the bilge would dictate, we simply cut off the excess." There, bingo, you got your chine!
When asked about the adoption of it in contemporary AWB design, he laughed.
I'm sure I'll be accused again of ignoring empirical data by someone who took a walk through the marina, counting boats with chines and, consequently, conclude they must contribute brilliantly to a boat's sailing ability and for the obvious reason that people bought these boats and that there is a market for ones that, at the least, look fast.
By the same measure, if a few years ago, counting the number of fins and rocket extrusions on cars in a parking lot would have led to the obvious conclusion that these accoutrements must greatly improve aero dynamics and allow automobiles to fly.
Absolutely. And as an importer of one of the products designed by one of the designers mentioned by baggysomeone i have spoken to the designer directly. Wide flat sterns and chines are not just for accomodation. They are to raise performance away from displacement formulae and towards planing and semi planing. And it works. Anyone who has sailed a scow bowed 6.5, or something like a Pointer 30 or Safier 24 cannot help but issue a 'feck me' expletive.We are not talking about chined hulls against round bilge where you would indeed expect greater hull resistance with chines - particularly hard single chine.
The subject under discussion here is short chines, maybe 10% of the waterline length at the stern of an otherwise round bilge hull. The additional resistance is likely to be small to non existent as most are not hard but rounded. The reasons for chines on this type of boat has been explained by several posters and by quotes from designers/builders. Doubt anybody here (including the critics) have ever sailed or owned one of these boats, but I have read several "tests" which are unanimous in confirming they perform as claimed. Whether the "fashion" continues will depend on developments of alternatives that might be a better solution, but for now chines do what they claim with virtually no downsides or cost penalty.
BTW pointless making comparisons of sailing performance between your round bilge boat and a chined MG design - as you remarked in relation to Van de Stadt early designs the chined hull form had little to do with their success and superior performance compared with rivals.
There isn't a hope in hell that the proverbial AWB will plane, least not in conditions that are within the limitations of the classification parametres, don't leave brown stains in your undies or void your life insurance. Chine or not.I think what laminar flow forgets is that the chine allows the boat to lean onto a flat surface and continue planing at greater wind angles.
Fat-ar$e syndrome is not the result of wanting more space, at least not initially, but because initial righting moment increases to the fourth power of any increase in beam. However, there are significant disadvantages associated with wide and extremely wide beam, particularly in terms of seakindliness and overall range of stability.That's why fat-ar$ed boats have chines, it's not a fashion statement, it a consequence of having a fat ar$e, which is a consequence of wanting more liveable space.
My German isn't good enough to see what their conclusions were, I'm afraid. It looked to me as if the Beneteau had the easiest motion going to windward because of its finer entry and less heel, though I wasn't sure which conditions were being shown, as sometimes they had a reef and sometimes not. The sailors seemed to be fiddling with the helm in a way that I would generally discourage, especially on the HR, and this can have a marked effect on boat comfort too.The video makes it about the difference between long and short keel, but that is not the correct reason for the substantively poorer performance of the fat-ar$ed model
Another question - if we want a boat that is going to take a bit of rough and tumble, maybe a long way away from a repair yard, do we really want a foam or balsa sandwich hull, or would we rather have solid GRP
There was me thinking cored construction was now normal.I think cored hulls have been abandoned for all but high performance boats, as you imply, for very good reason.
Solid GRP coachroofs and decks have a lot to commend especially when coupled with well designed inner liners.
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Depends whether you want to sail an old plodder, or something that feels alive, responsive and gives you excitement and pleasure. Or whether perhaps itks just getting there that matters to you. Fact is, these days both types will get you there. HR see some advantage to it, clearly.Come to think of it that new Rassy is cored in the topsides. Mature technologies tend to end up in a race to the bottom.
Certainly not a feature worth paying a premium for.
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