Boat almost burnt! Replacing RCD with IP65 consumer unit?

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sam_uk

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Hi all

Yesterday there was an alarming 'fritzing' noise from my RCD/ Shorepower unit. After unplugging it and having a look the top of the unit was partially melted. Scary stuff!

It looks like the original unit was just a household domestic one. My guess is that condensation formed into droplets inside the unit and caused a short on the top, before the current passed through the RCD.

I am looking to replace it with one that is safe, but on the other hand I would like to avoid the swindlery.

Would a marine electrician be happy to see one of these on a boat?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IP65-Mini...ectrical_Fittings_MJ&var=&hash=item565355d907

IP65 offers Protection from Low pressure water jets from all directions,

Thanks

Sam
 
Talulah said:
The ratings on the MCB are to high.
Suggest 16 amp max
Click to expand...
IP65 MINI GARAGE CONSUMER UNIT WITH RCD

IDEAL FOR USE IN SHEDS, EXTENSIONS, GARAGES, OUTBUILDINGS and LOFTS


This unit is designed around an IP65 enclosure so while being both solid and robust is also waterproof

- IP65 ABS ENCLOSURE, POLYCARB FLAP

- HINGED FRONT COVER

Modern Design

We are so confident with the quality of this garage consumer unit that we provide a 15 year warranty, larger than any competitors.


FITTED WITH:-

63 Amp RCD Switch 1 x 6A + 1 X 32A. MCB as Standard

With Drop Downs for the most popular ones also listed



(OTHER RATINGS ARE FREE OF CHARGE, PLEASE MAKE A REQUEST IF YOU WISH TO CHANGE)

Alternative ratings are shown below:-
6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40 & 50AMP


DIMESIONS 229mm(h) x 140mm(w) x 105mm(d)

LARGE ENCLOSURE FOR EASY WIRING.

N + E TERMINALS, FULLY ASSEMBLED AND READY TO FIT
 
BERT T said:
Would certainly do the job, 16A and a 6A breaker and take your cables in through TRS glands at the bottom of the unit.
Click to expand...

Wether you go for 6 + 16 or 16 + 16 Amp depends upon your setup.
Our setup would require 16 + 16. One to drive the immersion heater. The other to provide the main supply to the boat that includes the kettle, charger and 240V outlets.
 
I would be comfortable using it in a protected site as it has a DP RCD, 16a / 6a version would be favoirite but IP65 will not help with the condensation you suspected on your old unit, also bear in mind that to maintain the IP rating you should use cable glands to seal all entries made for the cables, also I would rather see it with a DP isolator switch upstream.
 
sam_uk said:
Hi all

Yesterday there was an alarming 'fritzing' noise from my RCD/ Shorepower unit. After unplugging it and having a look the top of the unit was partially melted. Scary stuff!

It looks like the original unit was just a household domestic one. My guess is that condensation formed into droplets inside the unit and caused a short on the top, before the current passed through the RCD.
Click to expand...

It won't have been condensation, that would at most fizz a bit and evaporate.

It will almost certainly have been a connection left loose and arcing which eventually overheated and melted.

It's most important that ALL connections are tight, and maintained tight, so worth checking regularly.
 
It depends on your wiring however I would:

- Fit a 16A master to protect the outside cable / connections / feed
- Fit a separate breaker for each significant appliance or function e.g. heater 10A, charger 5A, fridge 1A etc, sockets 10A, each based on that circuit's individual requirements.
- Fit an RCD, either for the whole boat or at least for things that you're likely to touch / move around / that might get wet e.g. sockets, bilge heaters etc.

It sounds unlikely that condensation would have caused the issue - more likely a bad / loose connection that heated up when a lot of current was going through it.

Glad you didn't lose the boat.
 
Last edited:
nigelmercier said:
I see no reason to have any form of waterproofing on a CU on a boat; if it is likely to get wet, it is in the wrong place.
Click to expand...

Whilst I sort of follow this logic, I'm sure there is something fundamentally wrong with it...............something like "unforeseen circumstances" ?
 
nigelmercier said:
I see no reason to have any form of waterproofing on a CU on a boat; if it is likely to get wet, it is in the wrong place.
Click to expand...
I agree, if there's any chance of it getting wet apart from a capsize then it's in the wrong place. I also suspect the condensation cause. Could rain water have run down the inlet cable from a cracked fitting? Why didn't either the boat or marina RCD unit trip? I doubt whether any consumer unit you fit could be made air tight which is what you need to stop condensation. It may be worth moving the unit and checking the inlet cable.
 
nigelmercier said:
I see no reason to have any form of waterproofing on a CU on a boat; if it is likely to get wet, it is in the wrong place.
Click to expand...

The wrong place being "a boat"? :)

Yes, it should be mounted somewhere dry, but there's always the possibility of a deck leak (perhaps elsewhere, with water tracking along the deckhead or inside the headlining before emerging), or bilge water running up the side of the hull when heeled right over, or a freshwater system leak, or heavy condensation dripping down, or any other unforseen reason for water to end up in your "dry" location. A bit of defence-in-depth never hurt.

Pete
 
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