Blue Angel (Canados 70s) Rebuild thread

[newWave]

Maybe a teflon coating ? This would allow for movement without the stickiness of rubber.
I think there may be some teflon spray solutions, but I am not 100% sure. Need to do some research on that.

 

[JerseyDiver]

What about using neoprene to make up some slide on socks for when diving is on the agenda.

 

[MarieK]

Hi Bart - love the dive mods you have made to the boat, thinking of following suit with some of your ideas. Have you made any other dive related modifications not shown here?

 

[jfm]

What about using neoprene to make up some slide on socks for when diving is on the agenda.

You cannot slide socks onto the goalposts afaik. Only the U brackets can have socks slid on them, but they are always in use for diving so whatever covering goes on them might as well be permanent

 

[BartW]

As regards diving cylinders:

1. If you keep the U brackets and cover them, I'd prefer to hot -dip the U brackets into plastic powder so they are finished like the handles on a pair of pliers. But with #2 or #3 below this isn't necessary

2 Why not create a hole or loop on the goal post for the pin to drop into, to stop the sliding? Like this:

3. Could you dump the U brackets and pins altogether, and have just a carabiner hook on each bottle set towards the top. Then clip this to the loop shown in right side of picture above? (Perhaps the bottles would then be too wobbly?)

Thanks for the sugestions and the drawing J,
I considered making a similar drawing for explaining the situation as you did, but I didn't do this (yet), as I hate the hassle with making the drawing, the scanning of the drawing, then uploading, ... or do you have a quick trick ? (and you're drawings are alway's outstanding quality and clear)
just writing and re reading and correcting this post here without a drawing takes me at least 30 minutes

regarding your proposals,

1) I'm not sure where I can do that plastic hot dipping, and absolutely no experience, would be interesting to do so, do you know how ? where ?
EDIT: Found it here locally, thanks for the tip.

2) you need to be aware that sometimes when recovering divers in shoppy water, its difficult to get the pin in the holes,
sometimes the dive set is not perfectly in its correct position, and can weight up to 35kg... so not something that the deck assistant (might be a women) easyly can move /bring in a accurate position, for getting the pin in there.
a loop as in the right side of the drawing would be a better solution for that (a bit more play) but then you are fixed on a dedicated position for a dive set.
With different dive sets, you might want to place them at different positions against the rail, (different sizes single or double tanks, different types and sizes of dive jackets, ...)
but with this restriction we could probably live.
or similary; we could make sort of a moveable loop or ring, that can be fixed at different positions on the rail,
with one group of divers, during one week, you can put each set on a fixed position for the week.
but having the freedom for "any" position against the rail would be much better.

3. Before we had the U-brackets we have been using straps, but then indeed it was a bit wobbly, more risc for damage, ...
unless you could strap them very tight, but getting the strap in the tightening clamp during shoppy water was then not easy.
the U-brackets were so far a very easy and quick fixing solution.

 

[BartW]

What about using neoprene to make up some slide on socks for when diving is on the agenda.

yes I considered neoprene tube on the rail, but you can't shift the tube on the rail as they are now, (restricted by this extra horizontal bar)
so I was thinking of a neoprene leaf with a velcro strip on one side, to hold it around the tube, (a neoprene tube that can be "opened")
but perhaps the neoprene will be vulnerable by the edges from the U-brackets, (unless plastic dipped)
there is quite some "play" between the U brackets and the rail, so with neoprene there would no "play" but a slightly flexable fixing.

 

[BartW]

Have you made any other dive related modifications not shown here?

the only other one I can think off right now, are the dive suit rails in the cockpit, under the F/B roof.
I'll show pics later.

 

[BartW]

Maybe a teflon coating ? This would allow for movement without the stickiness of rubber.
I think there may be some teflon spray solutions, but I am not 100% sure. Need to do some research on that.

I don't know much about teflon, but the plastic dipping would do the job.
a Teflon or plastic strip screwed on the rear side of the rail, would be a solution for my orriginal question in post nr xx

 

[scubaman]

Bart, what is the diameter of the ss tube? Sorry if this is already mentioned somewhere and I've missed it.

 

[wakeup]

1) I'm not sure where I can do that plastic hot dipping, and absolutely no experience, would be interesting to do so, do you know how ? where ?

There is a product called Plastic Dip that is a cold process product and it is available in a variety of colours and specifications. You simply dip the item you want coated in repeatedly until you have the depth of coating required. Suggest you dip the brackets that fit on to the tanks.

http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/index.cfm?type=Home_Solutions/PlastiDip&stage=1&menu=0

 

[RobWales]

OK reference the "U" bracket rail situation, maybe a different approach......

First of all remove the lower leg from the "U" bracket, shorten top bracket to the same dimension as the tube diameter plus say 10mm, re drill pin hole so that it is directly aligned at 1/2 diameter of tube, insert pin in bracket and weld in place in bracket from above, drill a string of vertical clearance holes straight through the tube at say 50mm intervals, this will allow you to drop the complete set of bottles onto the rack in any required position?
No pins left dangling around attached to rail, inner face of U bracket held off tube and not making damage!

Just a thought...

Rob.

 

[vas]

OK reference the "U" bracket rail situation, maybe a different approach......

First of all remove the lower leg from the "U" bracket, shorten top bracket to the same dimension as the tube diameter plus say 10mm, re drill pin hole so that it is directly aligned at 1/2 diameter of tube, insert pin in bracket and weld in place in bracket from above, drill a string of vertical clearance holes straight through the tube at say 50mm intervals, this will allow you to drop the complete set of bottles onto the rack in any required position?
No pins left dangling around attached to rail, inner face of U bracket held off tube and not making damage!

Just a thought...

Rob.

Rob I was thinking along these lines, but seawater/mist/salt will end up inside the tubes, down to the mounting points in the bathing platform and rust it (eventually)

Bart, not a fan of U brackets hanging outside the bulky bottles tbh.
I'd probably go along JFM's carabiner idea.

sorry struggling with time and tonsillitis atm

V.

 

[RobWales]

Rob I was thinking along these lines, but seawater/mist/salt will end up inside the tubes, down to the mounting points in the bathing platform and rust it (eventually)

Bart, not a fun of U brackets hanging outside the bulky bottles tbh.
I'd probably go along JFM's carabiner idea.

sorry struggling with time and tonsillitis atm

V.

Hi V,
Have also a severe case of "Man Flu" so I sympathise with you!
I doubt they would rust at the mounting points as unless I'm mistaken the rails look like they drop into a blind mounting cup? plus as long as they are 316 grade SS there will be no problem...

 

[BartW]

Bart, what is the diameter of the ss tube?

the diameter of the SS tube rail is 35mm
the U-brackets allows for a diameter of +/- 45mm (play and space for rubber...)

 

[BartW]

There is a product called Plastic Dip

yes I just fount that, thanks for the link, I think I'll use that

 

[BartW]

First of all remove the lower leg from the "U" bracket, shorten top bracket to the same dimension as the tube diameter plus say 10mm, re drill pin hole so that it is directly aligned at 1/2 diameter of tube, insert pin in bracket and weld in place in bracket from above, drill a string of vertical clearance holes straight through the tube at say 50mm intervals, this will allow you to drop the complete set of bottles onto the rack in any required position?
No pins left dangling around attached to rail, inner face of U bracket held off tube and not making damage!

Just a thought...

Rob.

sorry Rob, this won't work, as I don't see how the assistant can easyly lift the dive set (35kg) and bring the pin construction exactly in place,
same for the diver when he wants to stand up, he has to lift with his back the weight of the diveset 100% vertical,

with the actual U brackets as they are today, the diver just has to shift his but 5cm forward, towards the edge of the platform, and then bend forward, to be able to stand up, and lift the weight of the dive set.

BUT,
your thought give me the idea to drill a line of holes in the rail, and use the actual U-brackets as they are, or with a new hole for the pin closer to the base,
I can easyly try that out with the parts that I have,
and if it works, make the U-brackets shorter, Plastic dip them and ready
thanks !

 

[BartW]

Rob I was thinking along these lines, but seawater/mist/salt will end up inside the tubes, down to the mounting points in the bathing platform and rust it (eventually)

Bart, not a fun of U brackets hanging outside the bulky bottles tbh.
I'd probably go along JFM's carabiner idea.

sorry struggling with time and tonsillitis atm

V.

Hi Vas,

no problem with water inside the tubes,
the rails are open on the ends,
and I have drilled a small hole in the rail sockets so that no water can stay in there either

Yes the brackets look a bit weird, but in real use it has proven to be absolutely no problem
with the new idea just posted above, the brackets can be smaller, half the length sticking out

the carabiner solution won't work after sort of a similar experience, as explained before.

 

[RobWales]

Glad to have provoked some thought, along with the other's who contributed..

 

[vas]

Bart,

good didn't realize that they're open at the bottom.
On shortening the U brackets, maybe you should only shorten the lower side, means that it's easier for the diver to "find" the tube in a pushback and down sort of motion?

cheers

V.

 

[BartW]

Another idea for a major upgrade;

While looking at different models from Monte Carlo Yachts, I got this idea for a similar hard top on BA:

I quite like this,

The first 1m of the hardtop would be solid, and from there would come a gliding roof system, so that the sun bed area could be opened.
This is a sketch of how this could look like from the side.

Does this look alright / nice, or am I blinded by my own pride ?
Do you like the dark metal grey look, or would you prefer simply white ?
Imo the dark metal grey hardtop combines well with the dark part from the superstructure around the windows, (now dark blue, but would like to repaint with dark metal grey in future)

I’m waiting for a quote for the gliding system from Opac Mare as used oa on MCY and Azimuth. So that’s under control.

But For the hardtop itself, what material to use in a semi DIY way ?
- Carbon fibre; I spoke with a specialist; perhaps unnecessary expensive and complex
- GRP ? have to find someone who is interested in such a one off (a aluminium reinforcement inside we can manage ourselves)
- or probably the cheapest and most simple: marine ply with epoxy treatment


Or would you stick with a extension on the existing canopy ?
Problem is this reaches not over the FB helm position, and that’s the only position where I would like to have the roof almost permanently.
A separate independent canopy above the helm postion does not look nice I think.

Some pics from our existing canopy:

Sugestions ?