VicS
Well-Known Member
Don't the two opening hatches provide enough ventilation?
The hatch forward of the window in question is surely suitable for spinnaker handling.
Block up window … good idea?
- Thread starter Scotsailor
- Start date
Don't the two opening hatches provide enough ventilation?
The hatch forward of the window in question is surely suitable for spinnaker handling.
Cactus Sailing
Well-Known Member
might struggle fitting a spinnaker through the window in question.
they glue windows in on vans and the like nowadays with no other fittings necessary, they survive jet washing and potholes and don't leak, cant you get hold of some of that glue for your replacement window?
Scotsailor
N/A
I’m still considering what to do with the window. I might try making a replacement window but I think the curvature might prove difficult. I’m thinking of making a jig and heating the acrylic with a heat gun to form the curve. I’m not sure if that will work.
VicS
Well-Known Member
When I had to replace some significantly curved windows i took the old ones to a supplier who cut the new ones and used the old ones as the pattern to "drape mould " them.
The difficulty you will have if you try DIY is heating the new window uniformly to the correct temperature. The professionals have a large thermostatically controlled oven. Acrylic is too expensive IMO to risk mucking it up.
Cactus Sailing
Well-Known Member
we drape mould machinery guards over wooden forms in the oven at work, also used heat guns in the past to shape them but that's more a black art skill set that can quickly go wrong, if you;ve done it before crack on, if not be warned, a hazed or bubbled / distorted result can happen in the wrong hands.
there are of course professionals out there who will do it for you if you provide them the old window and cash
http://www.hampshiresignsandplastics.co.uk/forming-moulding/
http://www.projectplastics.co.uk/boat-windows.html
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Scotsailor
N/A
This is exactly what I’m considering … I think a new window formed by an expert would be expensive. I’m thinking of a wooden former with wing nuts on coach bolts to adjust tension. Maybe use heat gun as well as domestic oven with door open. I’m tempted to try. If I had the replacement window then no problem I would fix it so it won’t leak
Scotsailor
N/A
Update on this … I have managed to obtain a new plastic window from a Jeanneau agent. It’s a slightly different coloured tint. But it’s all that’s available. So I have bought it … I’m now wondering how to fix it. The Jeanneau agent says glue it down with Sikaflex. I think that’s Sikaflex 295 uv. … the replacement part has a groove milled into it on the underside. About 20mm wide and 3mm deep … I’m thinking that a butyl seal would be a good idea? … also there is a series of approx 5mm dia holes around the edge. According to Jeanneau the window is glued down with Sika and held with self tappers until set. Then the self tappers are removed and a little filler applied to the hole … I really would appreciate advice. My priority is that the window should not leak rather than cosmetic. Although we all want our boats to look great!… my friend works in car repairs and is recommending using the stuff they use to fix car windscreens. I’m unsure about that because I think this window is polycarbonate and might react. Any advice appreciated
tidclacy
Well-Known Member
Speak to Ian at the Burnham office he may be able to help. He fits out all the new Jeanneau's.
He has a wide knowledge of all things jeanneau
http://clarkeandcarter.co.uk/
He has a wide knowledge of all things jeanneau
http://clarkeandcarter.co.uk/
Heckler
Well-Known Member
Vidisha Joshi,
I cant see yours very well but I have a similar thing on my Bene. They are glued on just like a car windscreen. The glue detaches and water creeps down the back. If youse is the same, use a cheese cutter wire to get it off, clean all the old glue off and reglue it. Thats the proper way. The easy way is to use a bead of sikaflexto make a "triangle" joint all the way around. Worked for me! Oops, missed the last bit but you have confirmed what I said
A1Sailor
...
Scotsailor
N/A
Yes it’s similar to the window near the mast on that image. Although my boat isn’t quite the same
William_H
Well-Known Member
I don't know the boat type but it seems to me any difficulty sealing the window may be because of movement of the deck when sailing from mast loads. I would closely check the mast compression post just in case there is any movement there. olewill
truscott
Well-Known Member
We replaced all the windows in our SO40. 600 Odd Euro's. Don't leak a bit. I think you will find that regular Polycarbonate will flex enough to be bonded down. Ours were mounted on butyl tape initially and then Sika'd around the edges, before the Sika got coved with a wet finger.
For the time/hassle factor I would recommend shelling out the extra dosh as it will help preserve your resale value.
You have a nice yacht, why stuff it all up with a non std replacement that will have buyers wondering what other bodge jobs lay hidden?
PT
For the time/hassle factor I would recommend shelling out the extra dosh as it will help preserve your resale value.
You have a nice yacht, why stuff it all up with a non std replacement that will have buyers wondering what other bodge jobs lay hidden?
PT
Scotsailor
N/A
I have purchased the genuine Jeanneau window
UK-WOOZY
Well-Known Member
the 1988 sundream i got in aug last year has a large front window. it and the side windows leaked. but i had new windows made. worth just rebedding/or getting new ones made imho. the large one on mne is 12mm thick and was flexible enough to bend to the curvature as i and a friend bolted it down
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