Bleeding engine - won't start

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SimonA

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Bleeding engine - won\'t start

I have a BMC 1.5 engine.

I changed my fuel filter and cleaned the gauze in the fuel lift pump. Started the engine, run fine and then stopped. I realised I'd not turned the fuel cock back on! Engine had run out of fuel.

Turned the fuel back on, loosened the connector on the fuel filter side of the governor/pump pipe. Manually operated the lift pump until all the bubbles went. Did the same for the spare connector on the fuel filter.

Loosened the bleed nuts on the fuel pump/governor. Diesel spurting nicely out of the bottom bleed nut but very little out of the top (but all bubbles gone). Tightened them back up. Loosened the connectors to number 1 and number 4 injectors (at injector end of the pipes). Turned over engine with throttle fully open, diesel dripping out nicely. Tighten everything up.

Engine won't start. Flattened the battery trying.

So where should I look next?
 
Re: Bleeding engine - won\'t start

Agree with Old Harry, the DPA pump does not always bleed out completely first go. If fuel not flowing freely from nipples try moving the crankshaft a few degree around.
Final check for complete bleeding is to take out injectors and check spray but keep your skin out of the way. If it has been some years since this was done maybe a good idea to check for dribbling and no no trumpets have formed anyway.
 
Re: Bleeding engine - won\'t start

Do as everybody says but check that ALL the heaters are operating ok, can be pigs if one or two are down.
 
Re: Bleeding engine - won\'t start

Sorted now, thank you. But I think one or more heaters are not working. A job for another day. I imagine they will be a pain to remove.
 
Re: Bleeding engine - won\'t start

with the bmc 1.5l if removing heater plugs be certain to lightly ream the hole to remove the carbon where the thin heater sits, as a pal of mine with a canal boat sheered a new one in the head. head off & a visit to the engineers to remove the brand new snapped off bit.
 
Re: Bleeding engine - won\'t start

Heaters are no more a pain than spark plugs. On mine when I got it only one heater worked and that had a twisted point. The previous owner had relied on Easistart. I fitted new plugs (at a fairly horrendous price from a taxi spares place) and never had any more trouble.

Regarding the bleeding, I always found that the manual pump did not fully bleed the injector pump. It always needed two fully charged batteries and a lot of turning over. I know it says to loosen two on the injector feed pipes, but I slackened all four. When fuel flowed from them all, air-free then I tightened them up while my beautiful assistant kept the started turning the engine over. It sometimes started then, but usually needed the 30 seconds of heaters. The battery took a right caning in this process.
 
Re: Bleeding engine - won\'t start

I had a BMC truck, and it always needed precise timing on the heaters, runes and incantations and a 1in 5 hill to get it going. I sold it, and the new owner had no problems. "ermm, how does it start?" "Just needed a bigger battery, if you spin it fast enough it'll go"
 
Hi!
I just wanted to share my experience of bleeding the 1 5 bmc diesel fitted to my newly purchased canal boat.

After many failed attempts to bleed the fuel system of air. I decided to fit an line rubber bulb 10mm hand pump to prime the system instead of using the lift pump.

I operated the pump until I couldn't compress it any further maybe 5-6 times.

I then opened the bleed point on the fuel injector pump and then operated the in line hand pump until I couldn't compress it any further.

I then removed the fuel rail connections and turned the engine over 5-6 times. Then reconnected and tuned the engine over once and it started!

This in my opinion is an upgrade and well worth it to aid the bleeding of the fuel system. I had probably had to recharge my battery 5 times without getting it to idle properly! this cured it and will make it easier for the future.
Any thoughts/comments gratefully received
 
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