Blanking a Seacock

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yachtorion

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I've just bought a boat with the loo removed. The inlet seacock is connected to a hose running into the bilge with nothing on the end, and the surveyor felt this was inadvisable. I would have to agree!

I'm planning to put in a chem loo anyway - but I figured it would be good to keep the seacocks in case a loo is wanted in the future.

So how to blank the seacock.... how about these, double clipped of course?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Sili...hash=item2c72149719:m:mH52ldJ0iKXmzqtvbGffFBA
 
You can just leave it closed. Adding a cap does little or nothing, unless you take the valve off and cap the skin fitting. However if you want to do away with it permanently then take the whole fitting out and glass over the hole. Presumably you have an outlet to deal with as well.
 
What sort of seacock? I have a couple of unused skin fittings (albeit a few inches above the waterline) which I've blanked off with DZR caps:

ae235


...but if they're Blakes type then I suppose you need something that will go on a hose barb. The ones you link to look reasonable, but they only go up 32mm - a heads outlet would normally be 38.

I have seen them closed off semi-permanently with softwood bungs wired in place, or with lengths of hose secured above the waterline and plugged. Both look like a bit of a bodge.

Pete
 
Tranona said:
You can just leave it closed. Adding a cap does little or nothing, unless you take the valve off and cap the skin fitting. However if you want to do away with it permanently then take the whole fitting out and glass over the hole. Presumably you have an outlet to deal with as well.
Click to expand...

Leave it I can't do - safety recommendation on the survey so has to be dealt with for insurance. Why won't adding a cap help? If the valve gets a knock I would hope it would stop a flood?

The outlet has been converted into a sink drain (though not well).
 
prv said:
What sort of seacock? I have a couple of unused skin fittings (albeit a few inches above the waterline) which I've blanked off with DZR caps:

ae235


...but if they're Blakes type then I suppose you need something that will go on a hose barb. The ones you link to look reasonable, but they only go up 32mm - a heads outlet would normally be 38.

I have seen them closed off semi-permanently with softwood bungs wired in place, or with lengths of hose secured above the waterline and plugged. Both look like a bit of a bodge.

Pete
Click to expand...

Yup Blakes I'm afraid. Better look for a bigger cap if I do want to do the outlet - thanks.
 
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yachtailsa said:
Leave it I can't do - safety recommendation on the survey so has to be dealt with for insurance. Why won't adding a cap help? If the valve gets a knock I would hope it would stop a flood?

The outlet has been converted into a sink drain.
Click to expand...

How is it going to get knocked? If you are worried leave the pipe on it above the waterline. If you really don't want them, do the job properly, remove them and glass over the holes. Your 1 1/2" outlet is OTT for a drain which are usually 3/4" so use the old inlet for the drain and remove the outlet.

As they are Blakes you will,be able to sell them for a good price and easier to repair the holes as you have bolt holes to help key the patches. Blanking caps won't work as the tails are barbed. However if you just leave them in place you can tighten the keep plates and then the lever will not open them - in fact you can remove the lever and they will be locked solid.
 
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If it's a Blakes, it's easy. I have had a Blakes seacock blanked off for 18 years. Just close it and tighten the retaining plate down so it can't be opened.
 
If it had a bog attached to it all there would be between the seacock and the bog would be a 38mm hose. So, if you cut the existing hose off short and plug it with something, same difference. I piece of wood could be stuck in with Sikaflex and a jubilee clip, for instance. The seacock will be closed, so you're only protecting against an accidental opening of the seacock or a leaky one.

Locking them with the retaining plates will work, so do that too, but it may not satisfy the insurance company.
 
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Ask the surveyor if the safety recommendation is because somebody might open the seacock, and whether the issue will be resolved by removing the handle. If so then fine. If not then ask what the issue is because if his concern relates to the seacock itself then you will have to remove it completely and glass up the hole.
 
yachtailsa said:
Leave it I can't do - safety recommendation on the survey so has to be dealt with for insurance. Why won't adding a cap help? If the valve gets a knock I would hope it would stop a flood?

The outlet has been converted into a sink drain (though not well).
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I suppose you could always close it and remove the handle , I think if it above sea leave and it has a pipe attach you could put a wooden bun in the end and put two clips on , or has some have said cap it off
 
Unless you have plans for fitting a 'proper' head in the foreseeable future, the best way would be to remove the valve, skin fitting and all, and then close off the opening with GRP. Regardless of what some people might tell you, there is no need to use epoxy resin; plain and cheap CSM and polyester resin would be more than sufficient for your purpose. Shouldn't take more than half a morning... including tea-breaks.
That is what I would do if it were my boat.
 
Agree with Puff. I'd not be happy with an unused metal fitting slowly rotting away unnoticed until it leaked. It's not a major job glassing a small hole.
 
ghostlymoron said:
Agree with Puff. I'd not be happy with an unused metal fitting slowly rotting away unnoticed until it leaked. It's not a major job glassing a small hole.
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The Blakes will not "rot away".Locking them up as suggested is perfectly safe. Leaving them in place gives the next owner the option of reverting to a marine toilet.
 
Tranona said:
The Blakes will not "rot away".Locking them up as suggested is perfectly safe. Leaving them in place gives the next owner the option of reverting to a marine toilet.
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+1

Make sure the cone is in the fully closed position (hole 180° from the hose-barb), take off the handle, and screw the plate down tight. I'd be happy with that.

Pete
 
Well that all leaves me rather torn. For the time being I want to leave the valves in - just in case I don't get on with the chem loo.

I think those silicone caps should be fine - Tranona I don't understand why they wouldn't work on a hose fitting - isn't that what they're designed for? Over the top and secure with a clip? They're meant for covering car radiator fittings etc.

So I think I'll service the seacocks and look for any issues, then screw them down tight, remove the handles and put a cap over each for good measure (because belt+braces).

Thanks.
 
yachtailsa said:
Well that all leaves me rather torn. For the time being I want to leave the valves in - just in case I don't get on with the chem loo.

I think those silicone caps should be fine - Tranona I don't understand why they wouldn't work on a hose fitting - isn't that what they're designed for? Over the top and secure with a clip? They're meant for covering car radiator fittings etc.

So I think I'll service the seacocks and look for any issues, then screw them down tight, remove the handles and put a cap over each for good measure (because belt+braces).

Thanks.
Click to expand...

You just don't need any caps. Just follow the advice to lock down the keep plates with the cones in the closed position and if worried take the handles off. the valve is then effectively a solid bronze plug.
 
Tranona said:
You just don't need any caps. Just follow the advice to lock down the keep plates with the cones in the closed position and if worried take the handles off. the valve is then effectively a solid bronze plug.
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Agree it's unnecessary - but will cover my psychological hatred of an open hole, even if it's got a bronze cone behind it. I've taken Blakes seacocks apart before... Some irrational part of my mind just keeps saying "what if that thin bit of cone corrodes.. am I really sure these are old bronze and not new dzr ones....".
 
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