Blakes stuck or do I just not know something…

[johnalison]

It's a long time since I had one of these but mine had the plate retained by two bolts with a locking nut on the far side and these needed to be loosened first before the bolt could be turned. In the case of the photo it looks as if the right-hand one has been replaced with something - I'm not clear what, since there appears to be a nut on top. I would feel past the plate, or use a mirror to see what was going on first, and to see if the locking nuts are in place.

 

[NealB]

But I don't agree that the seacock is shut when the handle is at 90 degrees. It needs to be turned further.

Thank you!

I've always thought of 90 degrees as 'just closed'; and pointer more than 90 degrees (ie handle next to the attached hose) as 'very definitely closed'.

I'll take a look at the internal geometry when we're on the shingle near low water tomorrow.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Thank you!

I've always thought of 90 degrees as 'just closed'; and pointer more than 90 degrees (ie handle next to the attached hose) as 'very definitely closed'.

I'll take a look at the internal geometry when we're on the shingle near low water tomorrow.

Same here, I have always thought that. Further to Poignard's post, I retrieved a spare from my workshop and had a look as I too thought that the 90 degrees was closed and was intrigued. The photos below show the light shining in when the handle is at right angles and when the light stops, the position of the handle. A suction test also confirmed that when the handle is at right angles there is zero suction but moved a bit beyond, the plug seals the cut out n the seacock body. I have been closing at 90 degrees since the 1970's and explains a few sink floods when healed. In fact, with the wear on the cone edges, up against the hose body is a much better closed position.

Blakes Sea Cock Just Open When Handle Is At Right Angle To Hose Spigot (Indicated by Light Shining Through Gap)

No Light Shining Through Cone / Body When Handle Moved Beyond 90 Degrees

Handle Position When Fully Closed

 

[NealB]

Same here, I have always thought that. Further to Poignard's post, I retrieved a spare from my workshop and had a look as I too thought that the 90 degrees was closed and was intrigued. The photos below show the light shining in when the handle is at right angles and when the light stops, the position of the handle. A suction test also confirmed that when the handle is at right angles there is zero suction but moved a bit beyond, the plug seals the cut out n the seacock body. I have been closing at 90 degrees since the 1970's and explains a few sink floods when healed.

Blakes Sea Cock Just Open When Handle Is At Right Angles To Hose Spigot (Indicated by Light Shining Through Gap)

No Light Shining Through Cone / Body When Handle Moved Beyond 90 Degrees

Handle Position When Fully Closed

Great, if basic, stuff ..... thank you (and Poignard).

 

[Poignard]

Same here, I have always thought that. Further to Poignard's post, I retrieved a spare from my workshop and had a look as I too thought that the 90 degrees was closed and was intrigued. The photos below show the light shining in when the handle is at right angles and when the light stops, the position of the handle. A suction test also confirmed that when the handle is at right angles there is zero suction but moved a bit beyond, the plug seals the cut out n the seacock body. I have been closing at 90 degrees since the 1970's and explains a few sink floods when healed. In fact, with the wear on the cone edges, up against the hose body is a much better closed position.

Blakes Sea Cock Just Open When Handle Is At Right Angle To Hose Spigot (Indicated by Light Shining Through Gap)

No Light Shining Through Cone / Body When Handle Moved Beyond 90 Degrees

Handle Position When Fully Closed

.
Excellent description.

I hope you weren't conducting a suction test by mouth on an old heads discharge seacock!

 

[alahol2]

I'm assuming this applies to all Blakes Seacocks...
If you clean up and examine closely the square spigot on top of the cone you should see an arrow between two letters. The arrow points at the slot in the cone. It is possible to replace a cone at 180 deg to its intended orientation. When you do, it's very difficult to make it work correctly. Done that, got the T=shirt.

 

[khushildep]

Same here, I have always thought that. Further to Poignard's post, I retrieved a spare from my workshop and had a look as I too thought that the 90 degrees was closed and was intrigued. The photos below show the light shining in when the handle is at right angles and when the light stops, the position of the handle. A suction test also confirmed that when the handle is at right angles there is zero suction but moved a bit beyond, the plug seals the cut out n the seacock body. I have been closing at 90 degrees since the 1970's and explains a few sink floods when healed. In fact, with the wear on the cone edges, up against the hose body is a much better closed position.

Blakes Sea Cock Just Open When Handle Is At Right Angle To Hose Spigot (Indicated by Light Shining Through Gap)

No Light Shining Through Cone / Body When Handle Moved Beyond 90 Degrees

Handle Position When Fully Closed

So from this I’m assuming the “off” markings should be either side of the pipe abs the on opposite?

 

[prv]

I‘m a little baffled at all these categorical statements about the position of the handle, since the handle can be put onto the top of the cone four different ways - pick the best one according to the location and surrounding obstructions in each particular boat. It’s the arrow cast into the top of the cone that matters.

Pete

 

[alahol2]

I‘m a little baffled at all these categorical statements about the position of the handle, since the handle can be put onto the top of the cone four different ways - pick the best one according to the location and surrounding obstructions in each particular boat. It’s the arrow cast into the top of the cone that matters.

If they are all like mine then the handle only fits in line with the arrow. It won't fit onto the square(?) spigot at 90 deg to the arrow. I don't really know what the mechanism is that prevents incorrect orientation, I've never examined it closely. Anyway it makes no sense to put it on in any other position because it still needs to turn through about 120 deg from open to close. If you put it on at 90 deg to the arrow when open, you have to spin it to some indeterminate other position approx 120deg from the start in order to close it.

 

[prv]

Maybe the two I had in Kindred Spirit weren’t proper Blake’s ones, then? They certainly looked the same, though. When we got the boat neither of the handles were fitted to the seacocks, but dangling on strings nearby. I put them on in the orientation that made best sense in the limited space - the closed position may have been “indeterminate”, but it was the only one that worked between the hose, the battery box, and the framework supporting the holding tank.

Pete

 

[Kukri]

Blakes have changed the design quite regularly, usually in the interest of using less bronze, on a strictly need to know basis.

 

[VicS]

Blakes have changed the design quite regularly, usually in the interest of using less bronze, on a strictly need to know basis.

The newest ones look as though the position of the handle and operation is limited by the handle design and a stop mounted on the retaining plate to pointing away from the outlet when open and a 1/3 turn clockwise to close.
Maybe the handle can be turned over to allow a 1/3 turn anticlockwise to close.

 

[Martin_J]

Many vidoes on YouTube but one of the clear ones is on Classic Yacht TV... Seems to show the hole (although hard to tell if it closes at 90 degrees or if it needs that little bit extra), the handle stop and even the grease nipple.

At least it shows the OP what to expect in the way of movement and what should be acheived just by slackening the nut/bolt a little.

 

[Whiterose]

Sounds like it’s closed if lots of pressure trying to pump out toilet!

 

[khushildep]

Hi folks

update: she’s fixed! I applied copious wd40 and used a spanner in the end - came loose abs I managed to just find the arrow as well!

thank you all so very very much for all your help!