Rich the Scribbler
New Member
Thanks Vyv, much appreciated.
Blakes seacocks – to replace or not to replace?
- Thread starter Rich the Scribbler
- Start date
Pitcrew
New Member
I have a Blake’s seacock and my problem is the bridge holding the plug in the valve is soft and bends under any pressure and the valve weeps slightly.
The stem is round and the handle held by a roll pin ( expansion pin) which I have removed but the handle is loathe to come off.
Any advice about heating bronze, or anything I might do short of battering it with a persuader?
The stem is round and the handle held by a roll pin ( expansion pin) which I have removed but the handle is loathe to come off.
Any advice about heating bronze, or anything I might do short of battering it with a persuader?
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Welcome.
The weeping is more likely to do with a poor seal on the cone in the body. It does not require a lot of pressure to seal. Suggest you remove clean and bed it in with grinding paste. Then clean up and refit with plenty of Blakes grease. tighten the adjustment screws just enough so that you can turn the lever smoothly and lock off the nuts underneath.
The weeping is more likely to do with a poor seal on the cone in the body. It does not require a lot of pressure to seal. Suggest you remove clean and bed it in with grinding paste. Then clean up and refit with plenty of Blakes grease. tighten the adjustment screws just enough so that you can turn the lever smoothly and lock off the nuts underneath.
Rich the Scribbler
New Member
I believe replacement handles are available, should yours break at any stage.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I know from testing mine after annual service that they seal perfectly with the yoke nuts backed right off, no pressure on the cones at all. As Tranona says it sounds like a good grinding in session followed by greasing will solve your leak.
MikeBz
Well-Known Member
Is Blakes grease significantly better than Ramonol white grease for these seacocks? Significant as in worth buying the former when I already have the latter.
STATUE
Well-Known Member
Having found last season the brass and stainless steel main engine seacock coming apart I've just finished installing a Blakes.
Why - you can take a Blakes apart and see what's happening, use a bit of grinding paste, and put it back again with confidence.
Why - you can take a Blakes apart and see what's happening, use a bit of grinding paste, and put it back again with confidence.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Every good old yotty should have a tub of Blakes - you only need one to last a lifetime! - but not sure it is essential, just a badge of office and a fetching colour.
MikeBz
Well-Known Member
I suspect my tub of Ramonol will last me a lifetime - unless it gets consumed by my garage, never to be seen again...
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
I had the same issue as the OP many years ago on a Sadler 25. Nothing wrong with the seacock but the bolts they were fitted with were decidedly ropey. I gritted my teeth and coughed up for new bronze bolts. Never had any more issues.
Definitely keep the Blake’s seacocks. If the handle won’t come off you can remove clamping/retaining ring and cone and handle as one unit and take it to your workshop to sort it out. New handles are available (as already mentioned). A bit of work with grinding paste and apply appropriate grease and you should be able to turn them with one finger. If the retaining ring is bending something is very wrong.
Apologies that this perhaps repeats advice already given.
Definitely keep the Blake’s seacocks. If the handle won’t come off you can remove clamping/retaining ring and cone and handle as one unit and take it to your workshop to sort it out. New handles are available (as already mentioned). A bit of work with grinding paste and apply appropriate grease and you should be able to turn them with one finger. If the retaining ring is bending something is very wrong.
Apologies that this perhaps repeats advice already given.