Blade Fuses, problem overcome.

Channel Sailor

Well-Known Member
Joined
5 Mar 2009
Messages
698
Location
Portsmouth (UK)
Visit site
On a thread here a month ago someone mentioned that automotive blade fuses can be a problem on boats as then can corrode. ?

I have annually had trouble with an auto pilot and occassionally with a VHF on blade fuses that have suffered damp uk wintery conditions. It was fixed by cleaning the fuse and holder with silicon grease. I now annually clean and grease all the blade fuses. But recently the VHF failed when transmitting at Hi power to the Coastguard. Wiggled the fuse and that fixed it. That was the last straw so I rewired it to instead have the in line fuse supplied with the radio and fed it direct from the battery feed busbar. Much better, should have done it years ago.

Tiller pilots I know are not particularly reliable, I have owned them on of a number of yachts and use them a lot. if there are any problems with my tiller pilots I always check the 12V supply first. Corrosion in the deck socket and plug are the number 1 most common. I must remember to dry it and grease the pins with silicon more often (Monthly). The next most likely problem on my yacht is the blade fuse, again this seems to be cured by cleaning and greasing the blade fuse holder at least annually.

Btw, I have slightly overisized cable between the fuse board and the tiller pilot socket to help reduce the risk of volt drop problems. But if you do this then you may find at the socket the copper cores will not fit in the tiny terminals, which means you need down size the cable for the last 25mm or so with high quality crimp joint.
 
I don't think many people find blade fuses excessively prone to corrosion. They work reliably on cars and motorbikes as well as boats.
Is your boat excessively damp inside?
 
During my recent rewire I've removed every in line fuse and replaced them with blades as they are simple to check and replace. No fiddling about with silly wee bits of glass.
 
I'd be interested in a few views on this. I'm just about to rewire our battery banks which was going to involve a couple of blade fuse boxes (one for stwiched circuts another for unswitched). Should I grease the fuse contacts? I guess the fuses themselves are cheap and easy to replace, it would be more the contacts on the fuse box that I'd worry about - I'd hope these would last a few years.
 
All my new circuits have blade fuses and I'm about to change the final continental style fuses to blade. So far haven't had a problem with corrosion of blade fuses.

I have contralube electrical 'grease' on board but I have also used an ms4? silicone grease on electrics as well.
 
Blade fuses have, like Lucar type connectors, the 'wiping'effect as they are inserted and removed. For this reason they are superior.

Both our last two boats have been very dry internally. No poor conections of any fuses has occured.
 
Reading the posts above I think there are a few contributing problems on my yacht: the fuse panel is 25 years old and the blade sockets on one end are much weaker grip strength, in the recent past leaky windows above the electrics panel, uk winter on a swinging mooring without power to keep the humidity down. Could be the blade sockets on the circuit board need replacing. I will compare the grip of the blade on a car one when I next get a chance.
 
I have no fuses, all MCBs, problem solved.

Oh, I lie, there is one inline fuse in a battery box for the sensing wire to the alternator controller.
And all the socket, mains and 12v have fuses in the plug tops.
And the monster in the inverter supply.
I've got a lot really then!
I must go to sleep zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
 
Surely a good gobbet of vaseline on and around the fuse and post as you insert it will prevent all corrosion virtually for ever unless it's regularly showered in salt water?
 
Top