Big Dilemma on applying AF for the first time. PLEASE HELP.

[Karnic]

Hi Guys.
Boat is brand new and would like expert advise on applying antifouling for the first time on a brand new hull. I am having various conflicting answers from different dealers.
Would use boat in mediterranean sea for the 3 summer months and would leave boat in garage on trailer in winter ( 9months ).
As boat is new im a bit worried to abrade the hull with sandpaper for warranty reasons and manufacturer said that hull has Vinyl ester osmosis resistant skin-coat.
What are your views? What brands would you recommend ( Antifouling )? And what system would you use if you found yourselves in my situation.?
Please Help.

 

[kashurst]

you have a few choices:
1) If you can get the boat back onto the trailer over the summer months you could just jet wash it periodically and not put anything on it.
2) have it copper coated as the hull is in perfect condition and you probably won't need to re coat it ever again - but the hull will need sanding first.
3) use a primer and the antifoul paint that the locals use in your intended harbour/marina - but again you will need to sand it to get a good key.

a brand new hull will always have wax residue on it from the mould process. If you don't sand it (albeit lightly) any coating you put on will fall off.

 

[BruceK]

My understanding is that AF does not like long periods out of the water. If you are out of the water 9 months and are trailerable I'd just take her out periodically as in 1 above and jet wash her. When I had a trailerable cuddy it is what I did every third week or so. Fouling would be minimal and easily washed off. This was not in Med waters though. For me at least the comparative ease of a jet wash on occasion was much easier than the AF work I now face. AF scrape, sand and renewal is a major chore now and may become an annual chore for you if the preferred AF can't take such long dry periods.

 

[lisilou]

Steve Dunstable off this forum does the same with his boat I believe. Keeps it in the water for 3 months in the summer, no requirement for anti foul...just a good jet wash before trailoring home. Mind you, he's not in the med so maybe different requirements. Stevo...over to you my love.
L

 

[jimmy_the_builder]

My understanding is that AF does not like long periods out of the water. If you are out of the water 9 months and are trailerable I'd just take her out periodically as in 1 above and jet wash her. When I had a trailerable cuddy it is what I did every third week or so. Fouling would be minimal and easily washed off. This was not in Med waters though. For me at least the comparative ease of a jet wash on occasion was much easier than the AF work I now face. AF scrape, sand and renewal is a major chore now and may become an annual chore for you if the preferred AF can't take such long dry periods.

+1 to this. It obviously depends on where exactly in the med you are - fouling in Sant Carles is pretty aggressive, for example, so if you were there you'd need to be lifting and washing more frequently; but on the flipside it's definitely been my experience in the SoF that the boatyards are much cheaper than the UK for lift/wash/relaunch.

 

[Bandit]

I assume its a fast sports boat cruising speed 25 knots + ?

You will need antifoul in the med for three months if it stays in the water.

Do you have the opportunity to dry berth it for the three month use period when not in use? Ie if your there for a couple of weeks it stays in the water and if you come home to blighty its dry stacked for a fortnight etc in which case pressure wash and use without AF.

If you want it to stay in the water for three months it will need AF.

To AF properly put it in the water with all the normal gear and full tanks of fuel and water for a week to establish the waterline ( you get a staining from weed growth) remove boat from the water mark the AF line 1 inch above the staining with a felt pen taking care to ensure she does not have a list to port or starb.

Pressure wash the hull to remove staining, when dry abrade gull in AF area to get a key, wash off again to get rid of dust, degrease hull with a solvent to clean of wax and oil residue, apply one coat of International Gelshield as a tie coat, then apply two coats of a good hard racing antifouling. thereafter one coat of AFper season.

 

[Karnic]

Yes Boat will need Af if it stays 3 months in sea. Had previous experience . Your idea is the most that i am leaning towards it. 2 questions. International Gelshield 1 coat is enough? 2: regarding sanding do you use sander or with hand. Dont forget hull is new so i have to take extra precaution? What type of sandpaper is best and what Grade? I Think i will sand it very lightly. Because hull have Vinyl ester osmosis resistant skin-coat do you think i will do damage?
To cut story short my main concern is that i will damage the hull if i sand with sander.
Thanks Mate.

 

[Karnic]

My understanding is that AF does not like long periods out of the water. If you are out of the water 9 months and are trailerable I'd just take her out periodically as in 1 above and jet wash her. When I had a trailerable cuddy it is what I did every third week or so. Fouling would be minimal and easily washed off. This was not in Med waters though. For me at least the comparative ease of a jet wash on occasion was much easier than the AF work I now face. AF scrape, sand and renewal is a major chore now and may become an annual chore for you if the preferred AF can't take such long dry periods.

You are right. Had experience with other boats and its a job i dont like doing. But will have to do it. Here in Malta in summer it is very very busy and would not be worth it thats why i will leave boat at sea to go fishing when time is available.Thats why im asking for ideas in order to make a good first time job ( Hull Preperation ) in order to coming years i will just light sand the AF and recoat with one coat.

 

[kashurst]

good point about regular antifouling - if you leave the boat out the water for 9 months it will stop working and need re-doing. If it was me I would copper coat the boat and thats it forever. Its more expensive at first but you probably won't need to do it for another 10 - 15 years or more. Saying that, if you are thinking gel shield and antifoul, price wise it will be similar. It works pretty well in the med - certainly for just three months. Copper Coat is OK out of the water for long periods as it forms copper oxide (brown/black) and ultimately copper carbonate (green). Rain water will produce the same result. You won't damage the hull by just sanding it - best to use an electric sander, It will take forever by hand and be uneven. Just go easy on the corners and spray rail edges.

 

[Sea Ray]

If it were me I would Copper Coat, I would'nt want to leave my boat for up to 3 months unprotected. Nor would I want all the hassle of antifouling a boat on its trailer. I have a trailerable boat which I had epoxied and Copper Coated from new. Weighing up the cost of Copper Coat vs hassle and expense of yearly anti-fouling it was a no brainer for me. 15 minutes with a pressure washer at the end of the season and it's job done. I boat in the UK so I'm not sure about the effetivness of CC in the Med though. If you do go down the CC route get it done proffesionally, it's not the sort of job you'd want to mess up !

 

[Karnic]

I assume its a fast sports boat cruising speed 25 knots + ?

You will need antifoul in the med for three months if it stays in the water.

Do you have the opportunity to dry berth it for the three month use period when not in use? Ie if your there for a couple of weeks it stays in the water and if you come home to blighty its dry stacked for a fortnight etc in which case pressure wash and use without AF.

If you want it to stay in the water for three months it will need AF.

To AF properly put it in the water with all the normal gear and full tanks of fuel and water for a week to establish the waterline ( you get a staining from weed growth) remove boat from the water mark the AF line 1 inch above the staining with a felt pen taking care to ensure she does not have a list to port or starb.

Pressure wash the hull to remove staining, when dry abrade gull in AF area to get a key, wash off again to get rid of dust, degrease hull with a solvent to clean of wax and oil residue, apply one coat of International Gelshield as a tie coat, then apply two coats of a good hard racing antifouling. thereafter one coat of AFper season.

Yes Boat will need Af if it stays 3 months in sea. Had previous experience . Your idea is the most that i am leaning towards it. 2 questions. International Gelshield 1 coat is enough? 2: regarding sanding do you use sander or with hand. Dont forget hull is new so i have to take extra precaution? What type of sandpaper is best and what Grade? I Think i will sand it very lightly. Because hull have Vinyl ester osmosis resistant skin-coat do you think i will do damage?
To cut story short my main concern is that i will damage the hull if i sand with sander.
Thanks Mate.
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...he-first-time-PLEASE-HELP#bf4zPhd47yOjrm5P.99

 

[stuartwineberg]

I assume its a fast sports boat cruising speed 25 knots + ?

You will need antifoul in the med for three months if it stays in the water.

Do you have the opportunity to dry berth it for the three month use period when not in use? Ie if your there for a couple of weeks it stays in the water and if you come home to blighty its dry stacked for a fortnight etc in which case pressure wash and use without AF.

If you want it to stay in the water for three months it will need AF.

To AF properly put it in the water with all the normal gear and full tanks of fuel and water for a week to establish the waterline ( you get a staining from weed growth) remove boat from the water mark the AF line 1 inch above the staining with a felt pen taking care to ensure she does not have a list to port or starb.

Pressure wash the hull to remove staining, when dry abrade gull in AF area to get a key, wash off again to get rid of dust, degrease hull with a solvent to clean of wax and oil residue, apply one coat of International Gelshield as a tie coat, then apply two coats of a good hard racing antifouling. thereafter one coat of AFper season.

I love spullchuckers - the idea of dry abrading a gull tickled me