Beta Marine best setup?

[pmagowan]

I have had a good look at the area where the tank is due to go and I think it is high enough that the FLP should manage. The bottom of the tank should be about level with the top of the engine as the hull slopes upwards towards the stern.

I am now intrigued by the idea of GRP, might be the best of both worlds! I could build a mold out of ply to fit nicely and then make in GRP. Would be cheaper!?

Would also allow custombuild with various wee nifty bits. I was thinking a wee floaty stick in the filler tube to tell you the level was coming up. This would stop spills. Any ideas on this?

 

[macd]

I am now intrigued by the idea of GRP, might be the best of both worlds! I could build a mold out of ply to fit nicely and then make in GRP. Would be cheaper!?

Would also allow custombuild with various wee nifty bits. I was thinking a wee floaty stick in the filler tube to tell you the level was coming up. This would stop spills. Any ideas on this?

GRP will be cheaper, but not cheap.

Rather than make a mould, you might find it easier to lay up say two plies of flat glass sheet, cut it to appropriate size then assemble this as a 'flat pack' tank. Then add more plies internally. Polyester is OK for the bulk of it, but epoxy best for the final interior ply. Err on the side of making it resin-rich. Baffles can be built-in if necessary.

If part of the tank will lie against a curved surface, you can lay up that face of the tank in situ, placing a release medium between the hull and the tank. Then incorporate that into your flat pack construction.

Think about how the tank will be secured before you build it. You may choose to glass in 'ears' for bolting it down.

As for fittings, Tek Tank will sell you an inspection cover to incorporate into the tank. This will have out and return fittings plus filler and breather. If you wish to add a drain, you'll have to fabricate it yourself. The fuel take-off pipe should be, say, 80mm above the bottom of the tank. The drain should obviously be from the lowest point, but piped internally to exit from the top of the tank.

Dip stick: if you can engineer it so that the filler feeds straight down into the tank, a wooden dip stick works fine. Best painted matt black so the level's easy to see. With mine, the sound made as the tank fills changes pitch before it's full. This works well for me (and scores high on KISS).


I've made a couple of tanks this way. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.