Beta engine Parts...rip off

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gary3029

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Just bought proper Beta parts for a 20 hp (BD722). Bought oil filter, airfilter, anode and fuel filter. I know need a bank loan..ouch!! The anode I accept I will have to pay over the odds for, but I must be able to get the other parts from an alternative source. I service my engines under recommendation so using non beta parts will not be an issue...just cheaper. Have just sourced the oil filter from Halfords for half the price anyone manged to get the other parts?
 
There's a couple of interesting websites (American I think; sorry I don't have the addresses) where a guy has taken the manufacturer's equipment and the cheaper ones apart to compare. Not surprisingly you generally get less filter for the cheaper ones. Quite a lot less in some cases. So you've got this £5/6k engine and you're going to save what £4/5 on an oil filter once a year?
 
Everyone seems to complain about the price of engine parts irrespective of engine make- Volvo ,bukh, beta , yanmar whatever. The thing is none of us like spending money on engine bits when we get the wind for free. I know , all the other costs mount up - but you know what I mean.
 
Beta BZ722 Consumables

Oil Filter Fram PH5343 or Crossland 2142

Air Filter Fram CA15 or Fleetguard AF1657

Fuel Filter Fram P4766 or Crossland 5004

These are all top quality manufacturers (where do you think Kuboto buy their filters? - you don't actually believe they make their own?)

As for anodes, If you have access to a metal turning lathe it is very easy and cheap to make your own. It took me about an hour to turn 25 pieces for my old 20hp beta with a raw material cost of less than £5 the anodes are affordable if I don't count my time.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
We've got a Beta 13.5hp (BD482) and yes, filters etc direct from them are expensive. However, as a previous poster stated, because the small engines are Kubota based, most of the 'consumables' are available from plant sales/hire dealers & their prices are typically 60% of the Beta retail price.

If you do try to source filters - particularly oil - from places like halfords, don't fall into the trap of just matching the size. Some oil filters have non-return valves to keep the filter primed (don't know about the Beta ones) and hence damage could occur if fitting cheaper versions.

Next time I service my engine I'll be cutting the filters in half to check what's inside so that I can then stock up on sensibly priced replacements. In the meantime, if anyone has already done it, could they please let us all know?
 
There was a landmark court case a few years back where a large oriental car manufacturer (who has a plant in the NE of England) was sued for not honouring an engine warranty claim. The exact details I forget, but basically the engine lost all oil pressure and self destructed.
The manufacturer's defence was that the customer/owner was using non-OE oil filters - which was in breach of warranty conditions - and these sub-standard filters had caused/contributed to the engine failure.
The owner had an expert witness from the filter manufacturer who, in cross-examination, was asked as to the quality of the oil filters sold to Joe Public. "Obviously, as your price to the after-market is so much lower that the price from the car dealer this would reflect a much lower standard of product?"

"Not at all" was the reply. "In fact we make and supply the OE filters for the factory building the vehicle in question, and the car manufacturer would not pay for the filter we recommend for this engine. They specified a much inferior filter, built down to a price."

This is one of the reasons why you no longer have to use OE parts in warranty servicing. The vehicle manufacturer has had to change the wording in the warranty to "Parts of equivalent or better specification."

The court made the car manufacturer replace the engine.....
 
Yep, I make my own anodes too. Buy a 20mm zinc rod from MG Duff, and turn/or have it turned down. Like you I made loads from three bars and the price worked out incredibly cheaply.

It's not just the money saved (and the huge sense of satisfaction at paying so little!!) but it encourages me to change the anode at least twice a season, something I used to hesitate to do when they cost circa £9.00 each!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
We've got a Beta 13.5hp (BD482) and yes, filters etc direct from them are expensive.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've got a Beta 13.5hp, but mine is a BZ482.

Oil Filter I've got from my local car parts dealer is a Crosland 672.

I'd be most interested in any equavalent numbers for other bits as well.
 
Just replaced my Beta anodes & decided to 'test' the old anode. Interestingly, the zinc was glued into the brass holder and there was no electrical connectivity between the zinc and the brass - ie the anode could not do it's job of protecting the engine.

The make-your-own approach seems to have significant merit.
 
Posted previously (apologies to original author I kept the detail not the source, cliff?)

The BZ482 uses the following:

Oil Filter Fram PH5343, Crossland 2142

Air Filter CA15 Fleetguard AF1657

Fuel Filter P4766, Crossland 5004

In addition I use an external pair of Crosland 522's as primary fuel filters.
For the anode I removed the old zinc pencil from the holding nut, new zinc pencil cut from bar and filed to tight fit before final adjustment with a suitable knocking stick.
 
I have spoken to a friend tonight who works for a company which makes filters. He is going to look into pricing filters for the beta engine to start with. If costs look ok I will let you all know. Early indications look like a 60% saving on what I paid for my beta filters.....I will keep the forum posted
 
[ QUOTE ]
Beta BZ722 Consumables

Oil Filter Fram PH5343 or Crossland 2142

Air Filter Fram CA15 or Fleetguard AF1657

Fuel Filter Fram P4766 or Crossland 5004


[/ QUOTE ]OOPS - Typo error should be BD not BZ
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hammer.thumb.gif
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
Re: Why did you test it?

No, it had in fact corroded so that the zinc had remained largly intact but had broken/fallen off at the base where it is held in the brass bolt. I tested it because there was visible resin/glue where I had expected to see a thread.
I have no idea who supplied the anode but it was the original from the engine - fitted last year.
 
Marine Parts...rip off

Anything sold for marine use has the price doubled - after all it's a rich-mans' sport ain't it.

Generally speaking you can buy a comparable-quality aftermarket part for about 35% of the marine engine manufacturer's prices.

You really get into problems when you're looking at engine-mounts, head gaskets and the like - then the prices really hurt.

This holds true for all of them, Ford marinised engines are probably the best bet.
 
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