Beta Engine Cooling

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neil1967

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Hi

Getting my Beta BD722 prepared for the winter today. On removing the engine anode 'bolt', there was no anode to be seen (it was there at the begining of the season!). Further dismantling revealed that the anode was lying in the heat exchanger cowling - and although somewhat eroded, presumably not doing a proper job. At the inlet end of the heat exchanger, there was a considerable amount of white powdery gunge (as well as a totally knackered O ring). I have cleaned through the tubes of the heat exchanger, but cannot actually remove the heat exchanger tube from the casing - or at least it has not moved under the gentle pressure I've exerted). Question is, having cleared the heat exchanger tubes, should I worry about the not being able to remove the heat exchanger, or should I just replace the O rings and the anode, on the basis that if there is a decent water flow, there shouldn't be a problem?

Regards

Neil
 
I believe Beta recommend taking out the stack every year. I have done mine every 2, and last time it needed a bit of gentle tapping to get it out.

The anode coming off is also familiar. I now check every 6 months, although it is tricky getting the new one in with half the old one still inside!
 
I'm going to take mine out this year as I have a very slight leak on the after end housing - You can see a few salt crystals round it.

Having never done it before, I'm assuming it's just a case of removing the bolt in the centre of each bell end, remove the hoses, and the bell ends will come off.


Is it as straightforward as I imagine, or is it a bu99er to get them off?

Once I get them off, which way does the tube stack come out? Does it come out the front, or the rear of the engine?

All hints and tips greatfully received!


Cheers
Jim
 
Its pretty straightforward. Mine is the BZ482, but am sure it is similar.

Drain the cooling water - I used an oil type suction pump, although there is a bolt on the tank underside to do this as well. Think there may also be a tap somewhere on the side of the engine if this is easier. You only need to get the level under the stack so don't need that much out.

It all seems to work out once you get going, I think I had to take a hose clip off the back somewhere to make it easier. Can't remember if it is front or back (only did it a couple of months ago as well!). It will do both, but is a matter of access, so it is probably the front. May need a donk to free it from any gunge. If you have left it in there too long it will be harder! Clean through the stack with something like a coat hanger, or some spare wire.

Make sure you put it back the right way round as it only goes one way. Again it is pretty obvious. Just make sure you get it all lined up, and progressively tighten. This is probably the fiddliest bit. Oh yes, and have some spare O-rings to put on!

Good time to do the anode as well as you can see it from the inside.
 
We replaced the anode in our Club launch last week - Beta 20, and the old anode was exactly as you described.
We had to clean out the heat exchanger, took ages.

Going to have a look at one or two more engine anodes in the park soon.
 
My BZ482 seems to get through a couple of anodes per season.
One of our club boats had an overheat because he hadn't cleaned the stack.
Checked mine after 2 years and definitely needed cleaning. Now do it annualy.
 
My engine manual (Beta 28) instructs to turn off the raw water inlet and run for 10 sec's before switching off.

I do this if leaving the boat for a while. Does anyone else?

Dave.

Sorry I forgot where I was:-)
 
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