Beta belt dust?

Beta Marine recommend the Mitsuboshi Remf 1345 for the BZ 482 Is this the same as the BD 722 ? I have been trying to find a replacement for the remf 1345 , but I cannot find a suitable
alternative I wonder if you could please let me know where you obtained the agricultural belt ,and any other info that might help me
 
Cardo said:
I have a relatively new Beta 35, from 2010. Belt dust everywhere. No slippage, and the belt is toothed. I just clean up the dust every now and then. Belt tension seems fine to me. I have spares just in case.
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I thought that Beta's of that vintage came with polyee belts, not toothed, as standard, but I must be wrong. They certainly do now.
 
The polyvee belt conversion is the best thing since sliced bread.

I used to go through 2 belts a year, but since fitting the polyvee belt, I've never had to change one.

Here's a couple of pictures
 
monkfish24 said:
Unfortunatly that means the belt has worn too much!

Replacement will cure that, along with the problem with the rev counter not showing enough revs ;)
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I don't have a rev counter, just the vibration under my feet :) It is not a big problem. I have a spare and it only happens if the batter is drained and the load is high on the alternator. I think the vast majority of the time everything ticks over fine. I will fit a new belt soon though.
 
silverdawn said:
Hi All,In my present boat I have a Beta 20Hp engine year 1998 also my previous boat had the same engine year 2001, both created large amounts of black belt dust, speaking to Beta they advised to update the belt system with their conversion kit which comprises of new pully wheels and a wider toothed belt ,these are fitted to engines from about 2005 onwards.
The kit cost about £150.00 which I dont have spare, however on looking at the Beta website
they suggest that lack of ventilation to the engine compartment ie less than 200cm2 could cause black belt dust due to excessive heat around the alternator area.
The engine front access cover is in the saloon a factory finished fibre glass cover which is insulated and purposed made to deaden noise and prevent fumes /flames from entering the cabin. the only way I can introduce ventilation around the alternator area is by drilling two 100cm2 circular holes and covering them with metal hit and miss vents which could be opened when running the engine.
Other than the belt dust the engine run perfectly,So do I drill my perfect engine cover to (maybe) get rid of the belt dust or do I leave well alone and just change the belts more frequently.
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Changed mine for a toothed belt a couple of years ago and solved the problem.
 
donm said:
Changed mine for a toothed belt a couple of years ago and solved the problem.
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Can anyone supply a part number for a toothed belt for a BD722? I currently have the v belt Mitsubishi part no REMF 1345. Not a major problem, but it would be good to have less dust next time I change the belt.

Thank you

Graham
 
I had the same problem with a Beta13.5 hp which was in my previous boat. I don't know what the new owner has done about it:)
My present boat, Spirit of Glenans, has a Volvo D1-20 and when I bought a replacement belt from my local VP agent, I was astonished (not really:) ) to be charged 33 Euro. I brought it to my local friendly motor factor who gave me the Gates equivalent for 11 Euro !
 
I have not one but two 13.5 Betas which both suffer from the dust problem. One serves a 75 amp alt and the other a 55 amp alt. More dust from the 75 amp alt alt, that feeds the 2x110 amphr batts that supply the anchor winch, and heater circuit. And, yes we do anchor a lot. Seems to point to load as the problem, but will raid the bank for the suggested polyveed belt.
 
This might not work for everyone, but I have a low powered engine (12 horse) and the alternator (built into the flywheel) failed. I then "bodged" a 60A car alternator on to the engine and I have to run a ridiculous (6:1) ratio between the drive and the driven pulleys. Added to that, there is very little "belt wrap" round the alternator pulley and it's only 1.25" in diameter anyway! Clearly, any kind of V belt was out of the question. I then tried a polyvee belt - which worked but I got lots of dust. Finally, I went to a toothed belt (like a car's cam belt) and have been very pleased with it. No dust at all, and it seems to work very well. I stress though, my electrical demands are minimal!
 
Avocet said:
Clearly, any kind of V belt was out of the question. I then tried a polyvee belt - which worked but I got lots of dust. Finally, I went to a toothed belt (like a car's cam belt) and have been very pleased with it. No dust at all, and it seems to work very well. I stress though, my electrical demands are minimal!
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Top marks for perseverance. Got any photos?
Over the top for your application, but a HTD belt (with transverse 'teeth', but rounded, mating with transverse grooves on the pulleys) is the dog's wotsits for any kind of high-torque belt drive. It's sometimes used for alternator drive on race engines, where very rapid increase in revs places very high loads. Also often used on the primary drives of competition classic motorcycles. Another advantage is that, by making the driven pulleys slightly wider than the driving pulley, it can be made to tolerate a degree of misalignment: the extra pulley width allows the belt to self-align, which would not be possible with a polyvee.
 
alternator1.jpg


ALTRN3.jpg


ALTRNTR2.jpg


Lousy photos - sorry! They were taken when a decent digital camera could manage a few megapixels at most (and that one wasn't a decent digital camera)! It also shows the Polyvee belt (but the HTD one was just the same - just changed the pulleys). The difficult thing was that the crank was already taken up by driving the raw water pump, so I had to go off the camshaft instead. Irritatingly, the cam on this engine turns at only 1/4 engine speed! I'm sure the alternator never spins fast enough to generate it's full 60A, but as it was replacing one that could only manage 25A at best, I was still up on the game. The worst belt loadings appear to be when the engine fires and accelerates up to idle speed, and when I shut down and the piston comes up to TDC on a compression stroke but then "bounces" backwards for half a revolution before coming to a stop. That reversal of load is quite nasty. Also, being a single cylinder, I think there are quite pronounced crank speed fluctuations on each power stroke, but here, the 4:1 reduction in the cam drive helps. Basically, I still carry a spare belt and change every other season as a matter of course, but they're cheap enough.
 
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Look out for one unusual problem I encountered, namely the belt's rubbing on the screw of a jubilee clip nearby. It had me foxed for a while as the belt only just caught the screw head when the belt vibrated slightly over a particular, narrow rpm band.
 
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