Beta 28 - checking heat exchanger anode

[mrming]

I’d like to check the condition of the heat exchanger anode on my Beta 28.

I’ve consulted the manual, and it seems to suggest this can be done without draining the coolant, but it’s not 100% clear.

Does anyone know for sure either way?

If I have to drain the coolant I’ll wait and replace the coolant at the same time, which is a bigger job than I have time for this weekend.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

I’d like to check the condition of the heat exchanger anode on my Beta 28.

I’ve consulted the manual, and it seems to suggest this can be done without draining the coolant, but it’s not 100% clear.

Does anyone know for sure either way?

If I have to drain the coolant I’ll wait and replace the coolant at the same time, which is a bigger job than I have time for this weekend.

Not sure about the 28 but certainly on the 10/14 you didn't drain the coolant and the 28 manual implies similar.

 

[WoodyP]

No you don't need to drain the coolant, although you will get a little bit of dribble out the hole. I used to change the anode every year, and it usually needed to be done, so have a replacement to hand.

 

[doug748]

There is a half way measure which I often use. Stick a turkey baster down the hole and you can remove most of the coolant down to the level of the plug, and then stick the stuff back later.
Takes a number of sucks and you will get some running out as you remove the anode so have a rag ready.

PS



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[VicS]

Isn't the anode in the seawater side of the HE?

Surely you'll not get any coolant leakage just a little sea water ?

.

 

[mrming]

Isn't the anode in the seawater side of the HE?

Surely you'll not get any coolant leakage just a little sea water ?

.

Yes good point! Thanks all - seems like this should be doable today - pretty sure I have a spare on board.

 

[VicS]

Yes good point! Thanks all - seems like this should be doable today - pretty sure I have a spare on board.

You should consider inspecting and cleaning the tube stack. Then you will have to drain the coolant!

.

 

[mrming]

You should consider inspecting and cleaning the tube stack. Then you will have to drain the coolant!

.

Yes I’m planning to set more time aside to do that and a few other service bits. Just starting to fret about the anode in the meantime.

The history here is that I had the engine out and professionally refurbished, and now I’m supposed to be learning to maintain it myself. It’s the final major area of boat maintenance I need to conquer then we should be fairly self sufficient.

 

[Amlov]

As others have said, the anode on a Beta 28hp is in the raw water circuit. If the boat is on the water, shut off the water inlet to the engine and expect to have more than a dribble of salt water loss. Unfortunately this invariably lands on the rear engine mount, so it is advisable to try and cover this with a plastic bag and a rag or you run the risk of the mount rusting.

The salt water comes from the raw water side of the heat exchanger and the anti-syphon loop, so there is no easy way to drain it.

Finally, on a good year, the anode might last 6m, but if the heat exchanger has recently been cleaned it is often less than this. So you are wise to fret about the anode - particularly as the heat exchanger is no longer available for this engine and the one that is now sold needs a bit of surgery around the alternator to get it to fit.

 

[mrming]

As others have said, the anode on a Beta 28hp is in the raw water circuit. If the boat is on the water, shut off the water inlet to the engine and expect to have more than a dribble of salt water loss. Unfortunately this invariably lands on the rear engine mount, so it is advisable to try and cover this with a plastic bag and a rag or you run the risk of the mount rusting.

The salt water comes from the raw water side of the heat exchanger and the anti-syphon loop, so there is no easy way to drain it.

Finally, on a good year, the anode might last 6m, but if the heat exchanger has recently been cleaned it is often less than this. So you are wise to fret about the anode - particularly as the heat exchanger is no longer available for this engine and the one that is now sold needs a bit of surgery around the alternator to get it to fit.

That's great info thanks. The engine had the new type heat exchanger fitted when it was refurbished.

 

[doug748]

Oh dear. I did think I was helping matters by removing coolant, as per post 4. It now seems I was wasting my time - not unusual.
However, as Amlov has said, I have found the spurt of water is generally controllable with care, a sponge and rags.

 

[mrming]

Just did it. Just in time, there was about 2mm left. Have set a calendar event every six months from now on.

As advised a bit of sea water came out, but thanks to YBW I was well armed with some towels.

 

[rotrax]

Isn't the anode in the seawater side of the HE?

Surely you'll not get any coolant leakage just a little sea water ?

.

On my genset I just ensure the seacock is 'off' and change the anode. A paper towel sorts the dribble as it comes out.

 

[Babylon]

Just unscrew old one, screw new one in immediately and nip up with spanner, then slosh a cup or two of fresh water to clear small amount of salt water spillage down rear foot.