Best way to wire 12v 300w/600w pure sine wave inverter?

[Ammonite]

I've just purchased a 12v 300w (600w Max) pure sine wave inverter from Photonic Universe (model number NV-P300). I've gone down the pure sine wave route as apparently the Ryobi One Plus chargers and batteries, which is mainly what it will be used for, don't like the modified sine wave varieties.

http://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/...er-inverter-to-convert-12V-DC-to-240V-AC.html

It came with a a couple of crocodile clip flying leads for direct attachment to the battery but I'm planning to wire it in permanently with appropriately sized cables. The unit itself is fitted with a 20 amp blade style fuse and an on/off switch.

What's the best way to do this? I have a Nasa BM-1 and want to keep an eye on the current draw. I also have a Waeco 20amp charger that will sit next to the inverter (could I tap into the cables that link this to the batteries???) and a 1-2-Both-Off switch close by. I don't think the main switch panel is heavy duty enough to tap into given the potential current draw from the inverter

Many thanks

 

[VicS]

I've just purchased a 12v 300w (600w Max) pure sine wave inverter from Photonic Universe (model number NV-P300). I've gone down the pure sine wave route as apparently the Ryobi One Plus chargers and batteries, which is mainly what it will be used for, don't like the modified sine wave varieties.

http://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/...er-inverter-to-convert-12V-DC-to-240V-AC.html

It came with a a couple of crocodile clip flying leads for direct attachment to the battery but I'm planning to wire it in permanently with appropriately sized cables. The unit itself is fitted with a 20 amp blade style fuse and an on/off switch.

What's the best way to do this? I have a Nasa BM-1 and want to keep an eye on the current draw. I also have a Waeco 20amp charger that will sit next to the inverter (could I tap into the cables that link this to the batteries???) and a 1-2-Both-Off switch close by. I don't think the main switch panel is heavy duty enough to tap into given the potential current draw from the inverter

Many thanks

Directly to the house battery positive via its own isolator and an additional fuse close to the battery connection ... assuming you'll only run it from the house battery.
If the Waeco charger (is dual output and) has one output connected directly to the house battery you could tap into this if necessary

In order to record the current it uses connect the negative to the end of the BM shunt that is not connected to the battery, or to the common DC negative busbar that is itself connected to the shunt.
You could tap into the charger negative as that should go to the correct connection on the negative.

 

[Ammonite]

Thanks Vics. Much appreciated

Anyone know why a 300w inverter (600w) max is fitted with a 20 amp fuse (plus two spares)? Surely you'd need at least 25 amps to be able to reach 300w let alone the 600w peak which would need 50amps

 

[GrahamM376]

Agree with Vic for input wiring. How are you going to use it? If you're just going to plug things in when you need power, no problems but, if wired in directly to boat sockets the deck shore lead socket will be live in anyone happens to stick their fingers in. OTOH, if you use a plug to connect it into the system, the plug will be live if removed when you're connected to shore power. Best way to avoid this is to fit a double pole switch (1, off, 2) between the deck socket and the rcd and connect there. This allows you to select either shore power or inverter and isolates one from the other or, in the centre position, everything is off. I used one of these - http://www.marathonleisure.co.uk/product.php?xProd=200486

 

[Ammonite]

Agree with Vic for input wiring. How are you going to use it? If you're just going to plug things in when you need power, no problems but, if wired in directly to boat sockets the deck shore lead socket will be live in anyone happens to stick their fingers in. OTOH, if you use a plug to connect it into the system, the plug will be live if removed when you're connected to shore power. Best way to avoid this is to fit a double pole switch (1, off, 2) between the deck socket and the rcd and connect there. This allows you to select either shore power or inverter and isolates one from the other or, in the centre position, everything is off. I used one of these - http://www.marathonleisure.co.uk/product.php?xProd=200486

I'm not planning to link the inverter to the shore power sockets