Graham_Wright
Well-Known Member
In my experience, choc blocks are always brass normally pated. The problems arise from the screws which are normally steel. If replaced with stainless, I think you have the best solution.
Best way to extend wires by 6 inches?
- Thread starter chrisbitz
- Start date
In my experience, choc blocks are always brass normally pated. The problems arise from the screws which are normally steel. If replaced with stainless, I think you have the best solution.
rbmatthews
Well-Known Member
Crimped then soldered, but the solder was just to attach any protuding wire to the little flat bit between the crimp and the ring. The crimped bit was then covered in adhesive heat-shrink.
Rob.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
Vaguely relevant ... a properly done crimp done between a copper wire and an aluminium terminal gives a cold welded join; the two metals actually fuse at the interface, and aren't just in contact. I don;t know if this would also work if you crimped onto solder. I can't see soldering a join that was already properly crimped causing an issue, save possibly by introducing a stiff section of wire.
But then, if there is one golden role in this business it is "Thou shalt not endeavour to make thy electrical connection provide mechanical support, nor vice versa." If you are worried about wire movement next to a choc block, crimp or ring connection, you have already gone wrong.[1] if the wire might wiggle significantly it should be properly held down.
[1] That's "you" in a "one" sense, and is not personally directed at anyone.
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David2452
Well-Known Member
Still wouldn't use them, (in fact I am not permitted to use them) as there is also the fact that anything that relies on screw pressure alone to maintain contact and retain the conductor is less reliable that a ring or captive spade, crimped butt etc.
Elessar
Well-Known Member
no - the best solution is a shrink wrapped, glue encapsulated crimp. As that is easier than what you suggest, why would you bother?
pvb
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking that maybe aitchem's post was misinterpreted. He said "Why not run the existing wires into polythene strip connectors. Then you could easily remove your panel with it's bundled loom for maintenance and the existing wiring is firmly fixed to the boat."
I thought he was talking about plug and socket connector strips, like these sold by Index Marine...
I thought he was talking about plug and socket connector strips, like these sold by Index Marine...
David2452
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking that maybe aitchem's post was misinterpreted. He said "Why not run the existing wires into polythene strip connectors. Then you could easily remove your panel with it's bundled loom for maintenance and the existing wiring is firmly fixed to the boat."
I thought he was talking about plug and socket connector strips, like these sold by Index Marine...
That's the kind of thing I was referring to a multi plugs, though I had in mind the type with captive crimped spades rather than screw pressure retention. These are quite good http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Multipin_Locking_Wiring_Connectors_12_Way_EACH_RPMUL12
aitchem
Well-Known Member
Thems the ones pvb.
The beauty is, you only run the "red" side through the blocks.
The moving wires to the Panel need a generous loop to prevent work hardening at any concentrated point in the cable.
All the "black" side go to a common Neutral post, halving the connections to break for maintenance.
I ought to have shares in Index Marine.
The beauty is, you only run the "red" side through the blocks.
The moving wires to the Panel need a generous loop to prevent work hardening at any concentrated point in the cable.
All the "black" side go to a common Neutral post, halving the connections to break for maintenance.
I ought to have shares in Index Marine.
Graham_Wright
Well-Known Member
I crimp a bootlace tag on the wire end before it enters the choc block.