Best way to extend wires by 6 inches?

C

chrisbitz

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Bromley, Kent - Sail in Medway
www.freyacat.co.uk
I'd like to build a new switch panel, as I'd rather have more circuits and neater wiring, but the existing wires are a little bit to short, and every time I pull off the panel, one of the spades pulls/falls off its connector.

If I could extend each wire by 6 inches or so, that would be great! I thought of doing lots of male spade - female spade jumper cables, but I'm sure someone here would frown on that, :-) so what's a better way, other than rewire the entire boat?
 
Crimp connectors.

If you have access, it may be a good idea to cut some of the cables to different, shorter, lengths. This will stagger the location of the crimps instead of having them all bunched up together.

Pete
 
+1
I imagine prv means in-line crimps, which are specifically intended for lengthening cable, and not intended to come apart again. Staggering them is a good idea. Use a good crimping tool, not one of the cheap stripper/crimpers, which are rubbish.

A rolls-royce job would use adhesive-lined heatshrink around the crimps (or you can buy crimps with the heatshrink as a unit). It partly depends how confident you are the cables will stay dry. Alternatively, a blob of Contralube 770 in both ends of each crimp should look after the joins for aeons.

And while you're at it, add a bit more cable than you think you need for any future modifications.
 
Alternatively, you could solder the wires together and then cover the join with adhesive-lined heat shrink. I did that for a few connections on our boat five years ago, and they are still going strong. Use marine-grade tinned wire for the extensions.
 
chrisbitz said:
I'd like to build a new switch panel, as I'd rather have more circuits and neater wiring, but the existing wires are a little bit to short, and every time I pull off the panel, one of the spades pulls/falls off its connector.

If I could extend each wire by 6 inches or so, that would be great! I thought of doing lots of male spade - female spade jumper cables, but I'm sure someone here would frown on that, :-) so what's a better way, other than rewire the entire boat?
Click to expand...
The inline splice on this page, used with a quality ratchet crimp tool available from the same site, will do it properly.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalspreins/heatsealterms.php
 
Why not run the existing wires into polythene strip connectors.
Then you could easily remove your panel with it's bundled loom for maintenance and the existing wiring
is firmly fixed to the boat.
I do tend to lightly tin the ends of wires going into screw down connectors, but I have seen crimps which do the same job,
saving mangled wire ends.
 
If there is enough room, then maybe you can terminate all the wires on a terminal block (not coc-block) secured behind the panel and then make up new extension leads from this to the switch panel. of course, this may mean shortening the wires to suit a mounting on a bulkhead or similar, then longer extensions, but it would be much neater and allow the extended section to be fully flexible - much easier when pulling the switch panel for access! Otherwise, as others have said, crimp butt connectors and well staggered joints.

Rob.
 
Elessar said:
Because the individual strands of copper corrode easily as do the connector blocks. They, therefore, will eventually be unreliable.

If you tin the wire and use stainless connector blocks it could be ok. But if taking that trouble, why not do it properly?
Click to expand...

In my book, tinning the wire and using stainless connector blocks is doing it properly. For some applications chocolate blocks are absolutely fine.
 
Seems as if there has been quite a debate (war almost!) on whether to solder or crimp (do a search on Google), which I was unaware of.

e.g. http://forums.iboats.com/electrical-electronics-audio-trolling-motors/solder-vs-crimp-65538.html

On balance it seems that the majority favour crimping, although many think that it doesn't make any difference PROVIDED that both are done well (e.g. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139795-the-ultimate-answer-on-solder-vs-crimp/).

When I rewired our boat five years ago, I did crimp almost everything (with a heavy-duty ratchet crimper), with the exception of a few at the end which I soldered as I had run out of in-line crimps. I know which ones they are, so it will be interesting to see which last the longest. All ring terminals I both crimped and soldered, but it seems that that might also not be best due to altering the metallurgical properties of the copper. One lives and learns.

Rob.
 
chrisbitz said:
I'd like to build a new switch panel, as I'd rather have more circuits and neater wiring, but the existing wires are a little bit to short, and every time I pull off the panel, one of the spades pulls/falls off its connector.

If I could extend each wire by 6 inches or so, that would be great! I thought of doing lots of male spade - female spade jumper cables, but I'm sure someone here would frown on that, :-) so what's a better way, other than rewire the entire boat?
Click to expand...

Dependant on the number of cables you could use good quality multiplugs and sockets for demountability, this assumes they are reasonably protecred as I imagine they are, being close to a switch panel and all. Otherwise adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors as already advised. Chock blocks, unless of non ferrous construction and the conductors protected by bootlace crimps are just a bodge, nothing more.
 
rbmatthews said:
All ring terminals I both crimped and soldered, but it seems that that might also not be best due to altering the metallurgical properties of the copper. One lives and learns.

Rob.
Click to expand...

interesting !
Did you solder then crimp or crimp then solder ?
 
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