Parabordi
Well-Known Member
More rampant generalisation. A minute ago they never used them.
Best way to avoid engine issues when using at low speeds
- Thread starter philipm
- Start date
AuntyRinum
Well-Known Member
I think not.
Mushroom2
Active Member
Watching two Broom 39's getting into Shiplake lock on Saturday afternoon you would think they were laying down a smokescreen. A very unpleasant one at that.
Portland Billy
Well-Known Member
'blipping' up to 2000 rpm every couple of hours seems reduce the smoke effectively. - one engine at a time, of course - I would hate to produce too much wash (??),
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Parabordi
Well-Known Member
a bit like following a 50 years old fumy petrol engine in a Freeman 23? (runs for cover)
miket
Well-Known Member
Not sure where you chaps do your boating but I have never seen a smoky Yanmar. Perkins HT 6354 in a Broom 37 Continental, yes.
Don’t take any notice. Very many boat owners buy a boat unsuited to the non tidal Thames because they wish to cross the channel at more than 6 knots. Yes, 75% of their cruising might be at 8kph (bloody silly measurement) but with judicious use of one engine at a time and a little welly at appropriate moments (preferably whilst passing groups of liveaboards, sic) and all will be well.
Whilst at sea, enjoy cruising at 18 knots and consuming disgusting quantities of diesel. Yes!!!
Don’t take any notice. Very many boat owners buy a boat unsuited to the non tidal Thames because they wish to cross the channel at more than 6 knots. Yes, 75% of their cruising might be at 8kph (bloody silly measurement) but with judicious use of one engine at a time and a little welly at appropriate moments (preferably whilst passing groups of liveaboards, sic) and all will be well.
Whilst at sea, enjoy cruising at 18 knots and consuming disgusting quantities of diesel. Yes!!!
STILL AFLOAT
Well-Known Member
I have twin 4 cyl Yanmar 160 hp, in my Broom.
I hate Turbos, due to years of operating heavy machinery.
The main thing, with Turbos, is due to the rotation, as they pump, over atmospheric air pressure, into the bloc.
The Turbo, is whining at thousands of revolutions, even though your engine rev counter, is showing a lot lot less !
To prolong the life of your turbos, irrespective, of how long the engines have been running, fast or slow revs, you have to give the engines 5 mins, in neutral, so the turbos can wind down, then turn off.
I know, some lock keepers ask you to turn your engines off, while in the locks, but, they are not the ones, paying to repair your turbos !
I hate Turbos, due to years of operating heavy machinery.
The main thing, with Turbos, is due to the rotation, as they pump, over atmospheric air pressure, into the bloc.
The Turbo, is whining at thousands of revolutions, even though your engine rev counter, is showing a lot lot less !
To prolong the life of your turbos, irrespective, of how long the engines have been running, fast or slow revs, you have to give the engines 5 mins, in neutral, so the turbos can wind down, then turn off.
I know, some lock keepers ask you to turn your engines off, while in the locks, but, they are not the ones, paying to repair your turbos !
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Almost good advice above for a turbo in a road car that’s been driven hard, allowing everything to settle to normal temperatures with some normal driving is a great idea.
However in a boat on the river it’ll make no difference whatsoever. The exhaust temperatures between 1500 revs and tick over is negligible as is oil temperature and in both cases will be well within the speciation of the turbo
However in a boat on the river it’ll make no difference whatsoever. The exhaust temperatures between 1500 revs and tick over is negligible as is oil temperature and in both cases will be well within the speciation of the turbo
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Chris_d
Well-Known Member
+1 Yes that is 40 year old advice, modern oils and turbos mean you don't have to do that anymore unless you have been running really hard prior to switching off.
But I suppose if you have 40 year old turbos and run on old spec oil it might be a good idea
The bigger risk is just coking the exhaust side turbo vanes up and seizing the turbo due to slow running, so better to turn off asap than leave it running.
You can't win really, I just use the boat now and have stopped worrying about this stuff :encouragement:
Pump-Out
Well-Known Member
Try a second set of props, especially if you don't intend to go to sea for two seasons or more.
Less pitch than your current set, so the engines can run harder.
ms1
Well-Known Member
wow .. lots of experience coming out here.
I believe the acquired wisdom is that engines are not really designed to run on tickover or very low RPM and it seems to follow that powerful ones are designed to 'work'.
Hopefully you are able to get your engines to correct running temperature. The last posting caught my eye as this is exactly what I do. On my VP 280 outdrives I use 15x17 props for River Thames non tidal cruising and 16x21 for salt water. I found this to be very satisfactory for over past 15 years.
I can change them quickly enough standing in some shallow water in my marina.
I believe the acquired wisdom is that engines are not really designed to run on tickover or very low RPM and it seems to follow that powerful ones are designed to 'work'.
Hopefully you are able to get your engines to correct running temperature. The last posting caught my eye as this is exactly what I do. On my VP 280 outdrives I use 15x17 props for River Thames non tidal cruising and 16x21 for salt water. I found this to be very satisfactory for over past 15 years.
I can change them quickly enough standing in some shallow water in my marina.
nicho
RIP
Moor up somewhere where propwash will cause no problem, then put one engine in forward, the other in reverse and gradually open up the throttles to 2000+ rpm, being careful to balance forward and astern propulsion, and leave them that way for a few minutes.. I’ve seen it done, but never tried it myself.