Best Waterproof Sealant

[WoodyP]

I have a Ford focus estate which has leaks emanating l believe from the side rails on the roof. These are bolted through the metalwork of the roof and it appears that it is a well known fault for water to find it's way underneath and drip onto the carpet in the load bay after a few years.
The owners forum suggests removing the rails which entails removing the headlining.
I think that a bead of adhesive sealant along the length of each rail either side would solve the problem without all the disruption of taking the insides apart. It's worth a try.

There are so many different Sealants out there so l would be grateful for personal experience of what works.
TIA.

 

[Tranona]

Butyl if you want it removable or an adhesive sealant like CT1 if permanent. Not a very demanding application compared with many boating ones

 

[KevinV]

Polysulfide - tigerseal et al

 

[Boater Sam]

Clear CT1, it will look less messy.

 

[Poignard]

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.

Homepage

 

[PCUK]

CT1. Use a smoothing tool for a fine finish.

 

[KevinV]

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.

Homepage

Is this really as good as they claim? I could do with something for the windscreen and rear window on the landcruiser - renowned for leaking from new 32 years ago

 

[kwb78]

CT1. Use a smoothing tool for a fine finish.

Also it's helpful to spray it over with Multisolve (also by c-tec) when finishing it. It makes it stick much less to your finger or a tool so you get less messy. It's also very useful for cleaning up afterwards.

 

[Poignard]

Is this really as good as they claim? I could do with something for the windscreen and rear window on the landcruiser - renowned for leaking from new 32 years ago

I had a old Vectra with a leak into the boot. The leak was occuring where the rubber seal didn't bed down properly over a weld.
I cured it with Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.

I have also used it very successfully on my boat.

But you must follow the instructions carefully.

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[Dellquay13]

Also it's helpful to spray it over with Multisolve (also by c-tec) when finishing it. It makes it stick much less to your finger or a tool so you get less messy. It's also very useful for cleaning up afterwards.

I’ve never tried CT-1, but doesn’t the usual washing up liquid in water from a plant squirter work as well as it does on other sealants?

 

[WoodyP]

Well, thanks for the suggestions. I have used creeping crack cure on the boat, and it sort of worked, but has limited gap filling abilities. There's two deep channels either side that the water sits in, so l wanted it to be flush.
I wasn't worried about it being permanent but l thought that a certain flexibility is required .
I used the wet finger in a vinyl glove to smooth it, and masking tape for a clean edge.

In the end l used Stixall, which is reviewed as being as good as CT1, half the price and locally available.
Sika® Stixall®

 

[kwb78]

I’ve never tried CT-1, but doesn’t the usual washing up liquid in water from a plant squirter work as well as it does on other sealants?

CT-1 is good stuff - it lasts a lot longer than silicone sealants do and it a lot more mould resistant if you use it for things like sealing a shower. It's quite a strong adhesive which works while wet as well. You can use a washing up liquid spray but it doesn't work quite as well as with silicone as CT-1 is a bit more sticky. Multisolve is just better for it, and is also really handy for cleaning up afterwards. I usually have a can of it knocking about because it's useful for removing most sticky stuff, such as label residue.