Best varnish (or similar)...?

KAL

KAL

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I know everyone will have their favourite and mine has to be lots of Deks Olje D1 (allow 24 hours to dry) followed by "six rich coats" of D2, as per the instructions.

However, "six rich coats" effectively takes 6 long (warm, dry) days which, in our climate, can be a bothersome aspiration.

Can anyone suggest long-lasting, flexible, UV-resistant alternatives which give a similar deep protection and finish, without sanding in between coats?

Over to the varnish experts...
 
KAL said:
I know everyone will have their favourite and mine has to be lots of Deks Olje D1 (allow 24 hours to dry) followed by "six rich coats" of D2, as per the instructions.

However, "six rich coats" effectively takes 6 long (warm, dry) days which, in our climate, can be a bothersome aspiration.

Can anyone suggest long-lasting, flexible, UV-resistant alternatives which give a similar deep protection and finish, without sanding in between coats?

Over to the varnish experts...
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International Woodskin. 3 or 4 coats over 2 days. Softer than D2 but as a result does not break up. It is breathable and easy to touch up. Should have minimum of 5 years life. Using the D1/D2 regime put me off such things for life. Fell off the mast in sheets after only 2 years. Sikkens that is on the mast now (similar predecessor to Woodskin) has been on for over 10 years with just one refresh coat.
 
Tranona said:
International Woodskin. 3 or 4 coats over 2 days. Softer than D2 but as a result does not break up. It is breathable and easy to touch up. Should have minimum of 5 years life. Using the D1/D2 regime put me off such things for life. Fell off the mast in sheets after only 2 years. Sikkens that is on the mast now (similar predecessor to Woodskin) has been on for over 10 years with just one refresh coat.
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+ 1
 
KAL said:
I know everyone will have their favourite and mine has to be lots of Deks Olje D1 (allow 24 hours to dry) followed by "six rich coats" of D2, as per the instructions.

However, "six rich coats" effectively takes 6 long (warm, dry) days which, in our climate, can be a bothersome aspiration.

Can anyone suggest long-lasting, flexible, UV-resistant alternatives which give a similar deep protection and finish, without sanding in between coats?

Over to the varnish experts...
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It was rubbish when it hit the marked some 35 yrs ago, it never ever lived up to the hype, wood skin is far better but a shame they have added a tint into the formula.
For a real smart job use Epifanes
 
Hadenough said:
What is the drying time, how many coats and what is the finish? I hate gloss. I could google but it will be much more fun here.
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I'm a fan of Epifanes, but it's a traditional varnish which won't meet the OP's request for something that can be applied quickly without sanding.

If starting from bare wood I do seven coats, the first three are thinned to varying degrees as listed on the can. The early thin coats can certainly be sanded next day, the full-strength ones may or may not be ready after 24 hours depending on temperature (I'm usually varnishing in the garden shed in winter, so I'm sure a day would be fine in summer).

Standard finish is a beautiful high gloss (assuming you did a good job with preparation and application) but for most cabin woodwork I prefer satin. For this I do five coats of standard, followed by two of Rubbed Effect.

I sand with 320 grit between coats.

EDIT: The above applies to the standard Epifanes varnish. There are other products and paints available under the same brand name, which I haven't used.

Pete
 
+1 for Epifanes.

However, I prefer to use their Rapidclear than Rapidcoat. It has no added colour, can be applied every 5 or 6 hours, which means two coats in one day and there is no need to sand in between coats. I have used it on Iroko cockpit seats and on Teak (hatch) with excellent results and no ill effects from UV so far. Down here in Summer the UV Index is normally 10 on a daily basis!
 
parsifal said:
Epifanes Rapidcoat
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Hmm perhaps. Yes it's quick. Yes it builds up ok, yes it's a lovely looking as the "real" eppifanes. But after using it this year and adding 8 coats, it's all got to go. It blew in multiple places.

Eppifanes high gloss, do a coat, next day do another without sandbag, leave it a week, sand, then repeat. So effectively you are only light sanding every 2 coats.

Oh and sanding can be just rubbng over with scotch pads (the green ones not the oven ones) so not that onerous.

Biggest tip, get decent tack rags and a decent brush.
 
Has no one ever heard of Epifanes Woodfinish? Particularly good on teak or iroko. Needs 24 hours, yes but still does not need sanding if within 72 hours. But gets a better gloss finish than Rapidclear/coat.
 
tillergirl said:
Has no one ever heard of Epifanes Woodfinish? Particularly good on teak or iroko. Needs 24 hours, yes but still does not need sanding if within 72 hours. But gets a better gloss finish than Rapidclear/coat.
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They're all good products so it's a matter of taste I suppose. Personally I prefer the softer sheen of Rapidclear. I find that a high gloss is too 'aggressive' for my liking.
 
Hadenough said:
What is the drying time, how many coats and what is the finish? I hate gloss. I could google but it will be much more fun here.
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You can get three coats on in a good summer day (remember them?!), it is a semi matt finish. I like the tint Rapidcoat has because my 44-year old mahogany coachroof has had many repairs made to it and this helps to make them less noticeable.
 
PuffTheMagicDragon said:
They're all good products so it's a matter of taste I suppose. Personally I prefer the softer sheen of Rapidclear. I find that a high gloss is too 'aggressive' for my liking.
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Quite - the taste. And which timber and the application (area likely for high wear, needing for the best finish etc). My spars are Epifane Varnish - minimum of 10 coats with 100% adherence to the instructions/guidance. Once set up, it needs one annual coat, possibly two in the spring. The toerail - high wear and this winter I shall drop using Epifanes Varnish for Woodfinish (I tested the rail at the stern for three years and that is perfect). Coachroof sides - aggressive gloss essential so Epifanes varnish - more coats required than possible this miserable cold bleak spring weather so I plan early preparation for this winter so as to be ready every time there is enough temperature in the early spring. After 37 years of usage I have dumped Blakes/Hempel and International - well apart from Danboline but it still isn't what it used to be.
 
KAL said:
Can anyone suggest long-lasting, flexible, UV-resistant alternatives which give a similar deep protection and finish, without sanding in between coats?
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On what? I hear very good things about Woodskin, but it failed miserably on my teak, perhaps because of the oil in the wood.

I don't know what Honnor Marine use, but the spars of my recently acquired Devon Longboat are near immaculate despite having been outside for ten years.
 
tillergirl said:
Quite - the taste. And which timber and the application (area likely for high wear, needing for the best finish etc). My spars are Epifane Varnish - minimum of 10 coats with 100% adherence to the instructions/guidance. Once set up, it needs one annual coat, possibly two in the spring. The toerail - high wear and this winter I shall drop using Epifanes Varnish for Woodfinish (I tested the rail at the stern for three years and that is perfect). Coachroof sides - aggressive gloss essential so Epifanes varnish - more coats required than possible this miserable cold bleak spring weather so I plan early preparation for this winter so as to be ready every time there is enough temperature in the early spring. After 37 years of usage I have dumped Blakes/Hempel and International - well apart from Danboline but it still isn't what it used to be.
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Agreed, my toe rail was done by a yard using skippers. I was horrified, at the time but it's lasted well, patched well and doesn't look too bad either. Six coats wet on wet in a day.
 
JumbleDuck said:
On what? I hear very good things about Woodskin, but it failed miserably on my teak, perhaps because of the oil in the wood.

I don't know what Honnor Marine use, but the spars of my recently acquired Devon Longboat are near immaculate despite having been outside for ten years.
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Ah yes. It would have made sense to say.

I was recoating some marine ply serving as the engine mounting transom on my tender.

I've found that the D1/D2 combination has worked very well for the teak grids in the cockpit. Did them winter before last and they still look good now.
 
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