geem
Well-Known Member
We use this for deck fittings, windows, pretty much everything
THE WORKS PRO Sealant & Adhesive | Geocel
Best UV resistant adhesive sealant?
- Thread starter Ammonite
- Start date
THE WORKS PRO Sealant & Adhesive | Geocel
Ammonite
Well-Known Member
Yes, I looked at that after you mentioned it previously. I was just a little nervous as CT1 (another MS polymer) also claims its UV stable and suitable for glazing but in my experience it most definitely isn't, at least for not much more than a season and thats in the UK. Is the Geocel "on show" where you've used it for glazing or hidden behind a frame?
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geem
Well-Known Member
We first used Works on the current boat in about 2012 when we replaced our windows. We bedded them on Works and had leak free windows. The Works is in direct sunlight in the Caribbean. We replaced the windows in 2021 when we had the hull and deck sprayed. They are back in with Works again. It is pretty resilient to UV. They use these modified silicon polymers to hold structural glazing in in high rise buildings.
Rappey
Well-Known Member
Personally not impressed with ct1 as ive come across a few things where you can just peel it off . If it can be peeled off then its not suitable. Most out of a tube sealant/adhesives fall way short of their claims. There are some that can be nightmarish to scrape off. That was probably the correct sealant for the job.
Its a bit strange how a manufacturer has a whole range of specific sealants and one that "does all" making all the others a bit pointless ?
There are specific sealants for specific materials such as one for joining steel to steel, aluminium to aluminium, glass to glass etc. These are usually brilliant and impossible to scrape off whilst lasting 25 years plus.
Glass is very easy to bond to , acrylic or polycarb is not. The problem is finding a sealant that is specific to bond to acrylic, gelcoat and aluminium.
There is one marketed by a boat window restoration company for just this specific task but i cant remember the name. Its horrible stuff to use as it is very difficult to squirt out of the tube and sticks to licked fingers leading to a bad finish. Its worked for a few years now though
Ive used tds to recaulk teak decking and its lovely stuff to use. Leo has used it on his decks so must be good stuff
. Time will tell
The biggest problem with sealants out of a tube is not using them properly. They are for bridging a gap, not filling it up. Take teak decks, your bonding plank to plank but not bonding to the base. If you dont use non stick tape in the bottom of the joint the sealant will split along one side.
It you were putting a bead of sealant in a right angled corner (bath to tiles, tiles to showertray etc) it usually peels off on one edge given time. If a tiny non stick strip was in the middle it would stay stuck.
I used to fit windows in government buildings all over the country. We had to follow a set of regulations where every use of silicon had to have a foam/non stick strip where two items were to be joined. This included sealing double glazed units to plastic frames with foam as a spacer between glass and plastic and acting as the non stick strip
Apply what ive said to many sealing situations and you can see one possible reason why many "silicon jobs" fail prematurely.
Im using the term sealant loosely..
Many say polysulphite should only be used with a primer. Sika always seems to work for through hull fittings but ct1 worries me as overspill thats dried just easily peels off.
For bedding hatches, window frames ,deck hardware i would never use squirt out of a tube. I find Upvc foam tape or butyl tape/putty is more permanent.
There are some sealants that work very well in certain situations but its usually those ones where i have no idea what i originally used.
Its a bit strange how a manufacturer has a whole range of specific sealants and one that "does all" making all the others a bit pointless ?
There are specific sealants for specific materials such as one for joining steel to steel, aluminium to aluminium, glass to glass etc. These are usually brilliant and impossible to scrape off whilst lasting 25 years plus.
Glass is very easy to bond to , acrylic or polycarb is not. The problem is finding a sealant that is specific to bond to acrylic, gelcoat and aluminium.
There is one marketed by a boat window restoration company for just this specific task but i cant remember the name. Its horrible stuff to use as it is very difficult to squirt out of the tube and sticks to licked fingers leading to a bad finish. Its worked for a few years now though
Ive used tds to recaulk teak decking and its lovely stuff to use. Leo has used it on his decks so must be good stuff
. Time will tellThe biggest problem with sealants out of a tube is not using them properly. They are for bridging a gap, not filling it up. Take teak decks, your bonding plank to plank but not bonding to the base. If you dont use non stick tape in the bottom of the joint the sealant will split along one side.
It you were putting a bead of sealant in a right angled corner (bath to tiles, tiles to showertray etc) it usually peels off on one edge given time. If a tiny non stick strip was in the middle it would stay stuck.
I used to fit windows in government buildings all over the country. We had to follow a set of regulations where every use of silicon had to have a foam/non stick strip where two items were to be joined. This included sealing double glazed units to plastic frames with foam as a spacer between glass and plastic and acting as the non stick strip
Apply what ive said to many sealing situations and you can see one possible reason why many "silicon jobs" fail prematurely.
Im using the term sealant loosely..
Many say polysulphite should only be used with a primer. Sika always seems to work for through hull fittings but ct1 worries me as overspill thats dried just easily peels off.
For bedding hatches, window frames ,deck hardware i would never use squirt out of a tube. I find Upvc foam tape or butyl tape/putty is more permanent.
There are some sealants that work very well in certain situations but its usually those ones where i have no idea what i originally used.
Ammonite
Well-Known Member
I actually found CT1 to bond extremely well in my experience but I've been very disappointed by its weather / UV resistance. It also isn't much cop as a bathroom sealant as it yellows / crumbles over time with exposure to soap, bleach etc and isn't anywhere near as good as Plumbers Gold in my view.
Seashoreman
Well-Known Member
I suppose its impossible to come to a conclusion as perhaps there are many variables.
From this discussion I agree with some that clear CT1 works but peels off after a couple of years.
I have now decided to go for one contributors solution and try Screwfix for Dow 791.
Don't please advise me to do a proper job as my boat (Leisure 23sl) has double skin and nightmare screw-bolts and
I am a single person who very rarely manages to get any assistance which would make the exercise impossible..
So I resort to a thin line of gloop to hold back the unprecedented torrents of recent seasons. Very minor window leaks actually.
From this discussion I agree with some that clear CT1 works but peels off after a couple of years.
I have now decided to go for one contributors solution and try Screwfix for Dow 791.
Don't please advise me to do a proper job as my boat (Leisure 23sl) has double skin and nightmare screw-bolts and
I am a single person who very rarely manages to get any assistance which would make the exercise impossible..
So I resort to a thin line of gloop to hold back the unprecedented torrents of recent seasons. Very minor window leaks actually.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
One way to avoid half-used tubes in the fridge is to use them around the house. Yes, perhaps they are a little pricy for the job, but they will do a good job. Always be happy when you can use leftovers for ... anything.
I have a dorm fridge in the shop, which is enough for sealant, and a few beers and sodas. The kitchen fridge is for food.
I have a dorm fridge in the shop, which is enough for sealant, and a few beers and sodas. The kitchen fridge is for food.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
A low cost but high performing sealant in the US is Locktite PL-S40 and PL-S30. They are polyurethanes, much like Sika 291, but mildew a bit more and yellow a little. But they bond just as well, are just as flexible, and last just as long. I would not use it for a teak deck (TDS for that), but for anything that is high volume and little appearance, it's great. Also pretty good for fixing shoes and random stuff. Very good adhesion to plastics, better than Sika or 3M products.