Best stripper for Danboline?

Paramose contains dichloromethane, which is why it it is only supplied for commercial use.

Take great care of the fumes it produces in confined spaces. Forced ventilation is essential as the vapour is heavier than air.

Goggles and gloves must be worn.

Breathing apparatus should be available in case of emergencies.

Do not use where the vapour can come in contact with flames or hot surfaces.


Dichloromethane based paint strippers are generally not considered suitable for use on GRP

Danboline has a high resistance to chemical attack so test any candidate paint strippers for effectiveness.
 
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You can still get old-style paint-stripper? Who knew?!

Yes, it's damaging the grp that's the worry. May be better to use a drill and wire brush - very gently...

Shocked at how badly the Danboline's been applied - I can see old screw, washers, etc, all embedded into the top layer!
 
Worth giving a caustic soda based a stripper a try ( e.g. Marine strip, formerly Dilunett) or even similar a homemade concoction.

I think If I felt it absolutely necessary to have white bilges I would use white Danboline.
 
VicS said:
...I think If I felt it absolutely necessary to have white bilges I would use white Danboline.
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With Danboline already being on there, I would do the same - get rid of any debris embedded in the previous coat, rub down any protrusions and give the rest a light sanding to provide a key, clean with a degreaser then 2 coats of white Danboline.
 
I must admit I like Danboline, but it needs to be creating a good finish or you'll hate it! Whether you remove the old paint chemically or mechanically, working in the bilges is going to be a gutsy job and maybe better that you don't create noxious gases in the process. Bearing in mind that the flowcoat will provide a strong new surface, there isn't a strong case against using a knotted wire wheel to rip the old finish off - but use a good dust mask and a vacuum cleaner all the time. Also, cover up well as the fibres displaced from the hull will bury themselves in your skin and irritate the hell out of you (how do I know?), Anyway, good luck with the job.

Rob.
 
Fitzroy said:
I'll be flocoating the bilge in pristine white soon, so the old grey Danboline has gotta go completely.

A lot of strippers seem so feeble nowadays. Any suggestions?
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You got a be rich to use Danboline in the bilges, I have used 'Garage floor paint' for years, it's grease, oil and water proof and the joke is it's made by International paints at almost halve the cost of Danboline, available in grey, red, green, smokey blue.

If you must remove the existing paint I have used this paint remover for GRP http://www.marinechandlery.com/owatrol-marine-strip-paints-and-coatings-remover, simply brush it on with a dabbing motion and leave it on for say 4-5 hours and simple wash off with a hose/knozzle or jet wash, does not damage the GRP.

Worse case scenario is you may have to do it twice,

Mike
 
i would tidy up where the bits are showing and light rub down the rest then clean up
and paint over with the white as dambo is a very hard finish.
 
Caer Urfa;4375031 If you must remove the existing paint I have used this paint remover for GRP [url said:
http://www.marinechandlery.com/owatrol-marine-strip-paints-and-coatings-remover[/url], simply brush it on with a dabbing motion and leave it on for say 4-5 hours and simple wash off with a hose/knozzle or jet wash, does not damage the GRP.

Mike
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Marine Strip / Dilunett as suggested above in #5

Cheaper alternative is caustic soda solution thickened with wallpaper paste.

Take care with these caustic based products, Gloves and goggles are the barest minimum of protection

Not so easy to wash/ jet wash the bilges clean of strong chemical solutions like these.
 
Thanks, guys!

I think I might try the caustic soda route as I've got some lying around, but (and I hadn't thought about this) the sheer hassle of rinsing and mopping up (the boat's out of the water and the nearest tap is quite a walk away) means that I might get the wire brush on it sooner rather than later.

Here's the worst of the area to be flowcoated. The grey is Danboline, and the white is the original flowcoat (I think/hope). I wonder how deeply that oil will have soaked into the flowcoat?!...

Danboline1.jpg


Danboline2.jpg
 
Fitzroy said:
Thanks, guys!

I think I might try the caustic soda route as I've got some lying around, but (and I hadn't thought about this) the sheer hassle of rinsing and mopping up (the boat's out of the water and the nearest tap is quite a walk away) means that I might get the wire brush on it sooner rather than later.

Here's the worst of the area to be flowcoated. The grey is Danboline, and the white is the original flowcoat (I think/hope). I wonder how deeply that oil will have soaked into the flowcoat?!...

Danboline1.jpg


Danboline2.jpg
Click to expand...
Flow coat on that will be a total waste of time,money & effort.
spend that time & money on fixing those oil leaks
 
sailorman said:
Flow coat on that will be a total waste of time,money & effort.
spend that time & money on fixing those oil leaks
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Why would this be a waste of time? Surely nothing would be stronger and harder wearing than flow-coat?

The oil leaks were from the old engines, and they're thankfully now gone! The newer engines are smaller with much more room under and around the engines to fix leaks and keep the bilges clean. The old gearboxes are just perching on the engine beds while I clean the bilges.
 
Fitzroy said:
Why would this be a waste of time? Surely nothing would be stronger and harder wearing than flow-coat?

The oil leaks were from the old engines, and they're thankfully now gone! The newer engines are smaller with much more room under and around the engines to fix leaks and keep the bilges clean. The old gearboxes are just perching on the engine beds while I clean the bilges.
Click to expand...
When you have successfully flow coated, please report back on how you did it & how it has performed.
 
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